Surefire L6 mod/drop-in

Greetings,

I have an L6 that has become somewhat dated, performance wise. Four years ago when I bought it, it was awesome. Nowadays with all of the new LEDs that have come out it just doesn't hold its own anymore.

I'd like to change that if I could but I'm not sure of what's available on the market that would work in this light. I'd love to be able to just swap out LEDs in the existing head but I'm not sure whether that's an option.

What would you guys recommend? I'd like to keep whatever I do in the $100 range if possible. If you don't mind would you please estimate the cost of any mod/drop-in that you suggest?

Thanks in advance,

Torch

I don't think drop-in is a choice though you can swap in a Cree MC-E if you wire it 2s2p. Maybe a modder can do it for you if you don't feel confident enough. I don't know about cost, the LED is $20-30.

The MC-E seemed to focus really well when I tried it in the KL6.
I ended up using the only MC-E I had in my KL4.
Two more MC-E's are on thier way to me for the KL6 and another KL4.
I will just be doing an emitter swap in the KL6 until I buy a Shark Buck to give it more power.

Milkyspit has put P7's in the KL6.
I had a chance to check 1WRX7' out the other weekend and like it a lot.

Brightlumen' just used an Osram in his KL6 and said it works great.

Fortunately the KL6 is easy to mod.
There are 3 screws on the bottom that are removed and you have easy access to the LED/Heatsink and driver.

Thanks for the help. I have some questions.

I'm assuming that the 'KL6' is my light's head. Correct?

I'll do a search for MC-E, Osram, and P7. I'm guessing these are aftermarket LEDs. If that is the case is it a simple drop in or is some soldering required?

I think the KL6 is the L6's head. I'm pretty sure but not positive.

Soldering will be required if you want to swap in a current LED, the Cree MC-E might be the best wiring wise because it can be wired in 2s2p like the 4 dies in the Luxeon V are wired so there won't be much of a difference in LED voltage.

Torch said:

Greetings,

I have an L6 ...........

Click to expand...

greetings, if u wish to sell the kl6, plse pm me.

Will do, Roadie.

I've had two P7 KL6 heads. One is still a user for me. Lots of light from a little head.

I have a K2TFFC KL6 which has a beautiful beam.

I'll be receiving a KL6 with an X-Bin soon, which I'm really looking forward to. It's one of my favorite emitters, especially in big reflectors. Should be interesting.

Some member did a mod a while back to a KL6 or 7 to a SSCP7 but I can't remember who. All he did was open up the reflector hole at the base a little more to accomodate the P7s size.

I too have a virgin KL6 (pulled from a retail L6) that needs a moderate grade. Thought about a simple LED swap to an SCC U-bin but heard others have also changed the electronics. Ths only thing I know about the stock board is that it's a buck driver.

Can someone tell me more on the KL6 stock board's specs? Current drive etc.?
Any good candidates for replacement boards? Is the SOB1000 a suitable candidate to drive the SCC in this setup? If this board is used, must it be mounted to another can (heatsink) before putting it back into the KL6's heatsink?

Also I need to open up the frontal bezel lens ring to clean the lens, since it's quite dirty inside. Is the front bezel ring indeed epoxied? Would I be able to unscrew it by heating up with a hairdryer, blowgun etc.?

Comments appreciated.

DaFABRICATA said:

The MC-E seemed to focus really well when I tried it in the KL6.
I ended up using the only MC-E I had in my KL4.
Two more MC-E's are on thier way to me for the KL6 and another KL4.
I will just be doing an emitter swap in the KL6 until I buy a Shark Buck to give it more power.

Click to expand...

Curious to see if there are any updates on your awesome mod, DaFabricata.

Here is the finished result.
Still using the stock drive for now.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/218824

Cheapest option is to swap the LED with a Cree and bump up the LED current to about 1.2A or so. It will still run cooler than the stock Lux V and have longer runtime as well. I recommend a single die LED because the thing really throws without sacrificing too much spill. Here's what a Cree looks like:



Comparing a U2 on high to a Cree P4 bin

U2 on high (similar to stock L6)


L6 with P4 bin Cree


Now that Q5's and limited R2's are available, you can expect about 40% more output than what you see on the right picture above

I've done about a dozen of these mods and it still never ceases to amaze me the overall improvement.

CM, Have you tried the MC-E in a KL6 yet?

I had a Cree in my KL6 for a very short time.
I tried the Seoul as well and really didn't like either.
The Cree did have an improvement, but the MC-E is absolutely amazing with this head.

The Hot spot throws like CRAZY and the spill is bright as hell.

I'll try to get some outside beamshots tonight to show the difference.

DaFABRICATA said:

CM, Have you tried the MC-E in a KL6 yet?

I had a Cree in my KL6 for a very short time.
I tried the Seoul as well and really didn't like either.
The Cree did have an improvement, but the MC-E is absolutely amazing with this head.

The Hot spot throws like CRAZY and the spill is bright as hell.

I'll try to get some outside beamshots tonight to show the difference.

Click to expand...

I just read some of your posts on the Mc-E and I got the bug to do some mods again Dang it. Now I gotta get me another KL6. Does the reflector have to be modified/cut?

ok, I'm subscribing to this thread :twothumbs

CM said:

I just read some of your posts on the Mc-E and I got the bug to do some mods again Dang it. Now I gotta get me another KL6. Does the reflector have to be modified/cut?

Click to expand...

No it doesn't.
But one secret I forgot to mention.
I flipped the heatsink so the protruding area raises the MC-E up into the reflector better.
Otherwise a shim will be required.

DaFABRICATA said:

No it doesn't.
But one secret I forgot to mention.
I flipped the heatsink so the protruding area raises the MC-E up into the reflector better.
Otherwise a shim will be required.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I use that heatsink trick also for the Seoul.

I'm subscribing to this one, too.

The X-bin L6 got here, and, as expected, is a lovely beam. I now have a hankering for a Diamond Dragon in one of these heads, though. It's such a strong emitter in the 27mm reflector MJP puts it in, I can only imagine how it will do in the "Deep Throat" KL6. Jack it up to just short of 2A and it should roar!

Since people seem to like this thread I'll add my beamshots of a KL5 with a U2 Seoul upgrade and the KL6 with an MC-E

Camera settings were locked.


KL5A with U2 Seoul and stock driver


KL6 with MC-E-Stock driver