LED lenser "Speed-Focus" any advantage over old twist-style?

I have a Hocus Focus, which you twist the head to focus. The new P-series has the "speed-focus" for one handed operation. I am not sure I see the advantage. Since the switch is still in the tail cap for most of the P-series, you still have to grip the light in your palm, tactical style with thumb on switch, to turn it on. Then, if I want to hold it like a trowel, I have to then flip it around to use it. This pretty much requires using my other hand. As long as my left hand is aiding the turn-around and is on the head anyway, it seems twisting the head to focus isn't any harder than pushing-pulling the head. On the contrary, it would seem the speed-focus would be easier to knock out of the set focus when fiddling around with the light in your hand. Now, once in use, I can see a plus in being able to dial in the focus on the fly with only one hand, but how easy/hard is it to dial in the focus by gripping the head with thumb and index finger and pushing/pulling the head? Is it stiff? Imprecise? Any thoughts?

Does the speed-focus stop at the extremes of it's travel to provide a perfect throw or perfect flood, or does it over shoot the sweetest setting, forcing you to fitz with it back and forth to attain best throw?

Does the head wobble, affecting the focus?

My Hocus Focus on flood has a faint but noticeable dimmer area in teh center, contrary to what Lenser's marketing would like one to believe. An email reply from Lenser acknowledged the darker area, but claims that the new speed-focus system completely eliminates any darker or lighter areas in the flood setting. Anybody tried both and have any observations to offer about the uniformity of light on flood setting?

Thanks for any thoughts. I really like my Hocus Focus, but would not mind getting one of the brighter, newer P-series, but not if the speed-focus advantage is minimal or non-existent, since the focusing optic is the real reason I like the light. I would like a brighter light, but not at the risk of taking a "down grade" on the focusing system.

BTW, thumbs up or thumbs down on the new three-way switch, and why?

You push the head forward it will stop on it's own. and it will give you the spot mode this can be done with your pinky if you practice. Or at least I can on my P3. I have beam shots of my P3 on the forum if you want to check them out. The flood mode actually gives you a much better hotspot, but the spot mode is very cool looking

I wouldn't say it's a big advantage, because the way it's designed (with a tailcap switch) requires the use of a free hand to adjust if you hold it tactically. It's not wobbly and the slide focus needs some type of knurling or dimples to aid in pulling it back. I just use my index finger on the edge of bezel to pull back, unless I'm wearing gloves which provides some stickiness/grip.

I have a P14 and it's the switch that bothers me. To get momentary burst, instantly, you have to fully depress the switch but then it goes to the next level upon release. I find that I need just the right amount of pressure to get the instant burst, otherwise there's a second or two delay - but at least i get to stay on that mode. And if you're on low, there's a slight inconvenience of clicking a couple times to turn it off.

Otherwise, a good light but the biggest I'd go in a light with tailcap switch.

Pabs D said:

I have a P14 and it's the switch that bothers me... Otherwise, a good light but the biggest I'd go in a light with tailcap switch.

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That switch sounds counter-intuitive! So much so, that my next question is, of the new P-series lights, which do not use that 3-way switch? Which still use only the single-mode switch? I glanced at the P14 at Fry's, but did not notice the switch was still in the tail! I just assumed a light that big would have it's switch near the head, a la Mag, where it belongs on a light that size!

I think they all do, even the X7 I tried has it (but it's a side switch).

Any comparison in the flood setting of the old twisty style vs. the speed-focus? That is, on flood setting on the speed focus, is there any discernible dark area in the center of the beam? My Hocus Focus has a faint dimmer area, not terrible like a Mag, but according to Lenser's marketing, the flood beam is perfectly uniform, which it isn't. But then, we all know the batteries don't last 17,000 hours in reality either, don't we? The package of the Hocus Focus said perfect beam, but the Lenser rep corresponded with acknowledged the twisty style had a faint area on flood, but swore the new speed-focus eliminates that. Not sure... if I can't believe Lenser package claims, can I believe a PR guy over email? I trust someone with firsthand experience with both and no axe to grind! How uniform is the speed-focus beam on flood setting? Anybody have both styles and can compare?

Ive got a P5 and when fully focused the beam is abit squarish. Like theres a round beam but you can also see the square cree die projected over it.
I'm not sure if its as obvious or if it exists with the other larger models.

As for the flood, mine is noticeably dimmer in the middle of the beam than the edge which is abit annoying as it makes things feel kinda dim.

I don't have any of the old, but I have a new P7 and an H7 headlamp.

They can be a little bit "ringy" up close, but the flood looks fairly even at distance. Here are some comparisons with the P7 pointed 1 foot from the ceiling (showing off the ringing a bit more than you would typically see).

Thanks for the pics. The P7 does look more uniform in the center than the Hocus Focus, aside from the outer rings, which the Hocus Focus also has to some degree. Do the rings lessen and the uniformity stay the same or get better as you go to spot setting? I may have to check out the new speed-focus Lensers. Thanks for contributing to the thinning of my wallet!

The T7 has a extra ring around the head to give your finger something to grip when adjusting the focus. That way you can move it one handed.
Makes it easier.

Kamakazikev24 said:

The T7 has a extra ring around the head to give your finger something to grip when adjusting the focus. That way you can move it one handed.
Makes it easier.

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That comment and Helstar's about the pinky focus technique got me wondering... if it's that easy to focus, isn't it just as easy to knock out of focus if you brush it against something or tap it inadvertently? How about slipping the light back into it's holster? Does that cause the head to rest on the holster's top edge, sending the focus to the extreme so you have to reset to spot every time you turn it on?

I would imagine so, the bigger ones has enough friction to make one finger focus impossible but still moves relatively easy.

The uniformity is best for full spot and full flood. When you select something in between it can be a bit blobby but still useful.

The head slide is dampened so you have to give it an intentional push to change focus. It has a nice resistance that is easy to overcome but prevents it from changing focus unless you mean it. If you shake it or lightly brush against something it won't change focus.

Personally I got this light primarily for the even flood effect which I think is most useful for a lot of situations. I didn't want another "thrower" light.

Turbo DV8 said:

That switch sounds counter-intuitive! So much so, that my next question is, of the new P-series lights, which do not use that 3-way switch? Which still use only the single-mode switch? I glanced at the P14 at Fry's, but did not notice the switch was still in the tail! I just assumed a light that big would have it's switch near the head, a la Mag, where it belongs on a light that size!

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I saw a P17 at Fry's last week; it's a 2D monster, and has the switch on the side Mag-style -- and it's a three-stager too.

Around $95 at Fry's IIRC.

Canuke said:

I saw a P17 at Fry's last week; it's a 2D monster, and has the switch on the side Mag-style -- and it's a three-stager too.

Around $95 at Fry's IIRC.

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Small correction - 3D.

Pabs D said:

I have a P14 and it's the switch that bothers me.

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I am having difficulty grasping the modes of this switch. Is my understanding correct that a momentary press gives maximum light (i.e. "turbo"), the first click puts it in low mode, and the second click puts the light in a high setting, although not as bright as the momentary "turbo" mode?

Turbo DV8 said:

I am having difficulty grasping the modes of this switch. Is my understanding correct that a momentary press gives maximum light (i.e. "turbo"), the first click puts it in low mode, and the second click puts the light in a high setting, although not as bright as the momentary "turbo" mode?

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Correct. You can get turbo at any time, be it off, low, or high, using momentary, forward clicky style. The high and low constant modes work like a reverse clicky. Turbo in constant mode explanation: 1)When you're in one of the constant modes and you press the switch in, 2)there will be a spot in the travel where the light turns off, 3)push farther in slightly and it goes to turbo, 4)start letting back off the switch, travel back out, 5)hit the off gap on the way back, 6)then fully released and back to the constant mode you were in. Note: if you pushed in farther between 3 and 4, you would have clicked in and went to the next mode / off. I have two Led Lenser P14's. This switch reminds me of the Energizer Hard Case 2AA Cree XR-E, just with a momentary mechanism...

L.E.D. said:

Note: if you pushed in farther between 3 and 4, you would have clicked in and went to the next mode / off.

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Unless you were originally in the low mode, in which case the inadvertent click past turbo mode would put you in high mode... is my understanding correct? How ergonomical do you find this sequencing to be? Mosty inconvenient? Mostly convenient? Or neither.. you just were able to adapt easily. Thanks for the detailed function description. It really helped, as although the packaging in the store let's you test the light, it doesn't let you test the modes.

Which brings up a point. When pushing the demo lever in the package, is that the turbo mode? When I tested my Hocus Focus in the package, it really gave no justice to the throw the light produced once out of the package. Is this what you found with the P14?

My Hocus Focus says Made in China. I believe at least some of the P-series lights I saw at Fry's also said made in China. However, I have read elsewhere that the P-series lights are also sold in quite elaborate, attractive black boxes and are actually stated as made in Germany. What did your P14 come package in, and what is the country of manufacture, if you recall?

I'm like a cat crouched low, wriggling back on it's haunches, ready to pounce on a P14 and/or P7! I suppose I'll generally be reviled for it, but I am ready to move away from cheap, tempermental, flickery LED lights, and with two Lensers under my belt, I am convinced of their quality, and their lenses are second to none I have seen anywhere else.

I like the UI on the H7 headlamp, but have mixed feelings about the P7 tail switch. I much prefer side switches so I wish it had that.
The tail switch does feel of high quality. It is a solid button with real travel, not a rubber cover over a membrane switch. I find that I mostly just use it as a 3 position full travel switch... Click once to turn on low, click again for bright, click a 3rd time to turn back off. The momentary turbo mode is a little fussy to maintain, so I don't really use it (and it just makes the switch require more effort to switch modes). I would have preferred if they skipped that and just made it a straight 3 position. Actually I would have preferred something more like the H7... With a side on/off, and something on the tailcap to adjust brightness. Perhaps rotate tailcap for brightness... Alas they didn't do it that way.

I had a chance at Fry's to actually try a P14 out of the package. It looked like someone had attempted a five finger discount by slitting open the head area of the package, but must have been thwarted by the tenacious plastic "Try Me!" lever that is attached to the lanyard ring. A little flashlight gymnastics completed the job, though. After playing with the light, I have to say that I don't think the new design offers any advantage to me.

Quite bright, and the beam on flood is beautiful. No sign of dark patches! Everything else left me unimpressed, I am sorry to say. I read one other person's comment about the speed focus not stopping at precisely the right point for maximum throw. This was the case with the one I tried. It over shot at the end of it's travel, and began to defocus again before the lens stopped. Also, although the flood and spot (when dialed in) were nice, everything in between had numerous rings, which probably woulsn't be terrible in real world use, though. Finally, when I would hold the light between my forearm and chest to compare the beam to my Hocus Focus, when I went back to palm the P14, the focus was all the way back at the other extreme. My concern about the focus being easily bumped was confirmed, in my use, anyway. I can only imagine the focus could also change when holstering it, and I don't want to have to always be re-dialing in the focus every time I use it. As far as the three way switch, I could not notice any big difference between "turbo" mode and high. I would consider the switch basically to be a two-way switch: low and high.

I was primarily considering the P7 as a step up from my Hocus Focus, but if the P14 impressed me, I wouldn't mind having one also for it's AA form factor. But, given the above observations, and the fact that the P-series uses the same focusing mechanism across the series, I feel the new speed focus is a step down from the old twisty focus mechanism. If Lenser made these with the updated emitters but with the twisty focus, I would jump on them. I thank everyone for their input. I am not trying to rain on anybody's parade or love of their P-series Lensers, just wanted to chime in on the reasons I felt they're not for me.