DIY for Barbolight Bomb-Proof Host with P7 ...

wquiles

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,459
Location
Texas, USA, Earth
This is a project that I started last fall, when Javier (Barbolight) made available for sale the "Bomb-proof hosts". Javier was kind enough to also help me with the reflectors for the P7, so this here is the DIY and photo journal (blog?) of how to do it. Second from left to right, here is the host next to some other known suspects:
dscf1878.jpg



At least for this first one, I am using/modifying an existing "D" size P7 heatsink, but I will make my own going forward. Here are the pieces before starting:
dscf4164.jpg



The reflector does not fit in the head, neither wide nor length wise, so I had to modify both the head and the reflector. First the head:
dscf4166.jpg


dscf4167.jpg


dscf4168.jpg



Then the reflector:
dscf4169.jpg


dscf4170.jpg



The head needs more work, so that the angled part of the reflector can go through the hole:
dscf4173.jpg


dscf4177.jpg



Now the reflector fits. It floats a little, but we will "fix" that later on:
dscf4178.jpg



Since I need to figure out the proper positioning and I want the heatsink to stay in place even if the light is drop and/or abused, I decided to thread the body and the heatsink for a solid fit:
dscf4183.jpg


dscf4186.jpg


dscf4187.jpg


dscf4189.jpg


dscf4190.jpg


dscf4192.jpg



Then thread the body:
dscf4194.jpg



make sure parts fit:
dscf4197.jpg



I made the top flat to fit this application and to allow the reflector to center the LED in place:
dscf4401.jpg



I have tried with both the P7 and the MC-E, but only with these great reflectors that Javier sent, only the P7 works well and centers well.
dscf4427.jpg



So I took the heatsink, and threaded a hole for the negative contact – it is supposed to be a bomb-proof host, so I am trying to go the extra mile at every step:
dscf4514.jpg



I used the reflector to center the LED, and two-part thermal epoxy:
dscf4515.jpg


dscf4516.jpg


dscf4517.jpg



I then installed the lens and o-rings (very tight fit!):
dscf4518.jpg



I used high-temp silicone to set the reflector in place:
dscf4519.jpg



To create a positive contact for the battery, I used proto-board, cut and shapped to the right size:
dscf4520.jpg



The positive contact will have a spring, and I am mechanically attaching it to the proto-board:
dscf4521.jpg


dscf4525.jpg



Underside of the positive contact, ready for soldering:
dscf4524.jpg



Here I already soldered the wires to the LED, and got the negative wire connected to the heatsink via the screw:
dscf4522.jpg



Solder the positive wire:
dscf4528.jpg



Epoxy around the LED and wires for extra measure:
dscf4529.jpg



Epoxy the protoboard in place:
dscf4530.jpg



and epoxy the base of the spring for extra measure:
dscf4531.jpg



Apply thermal paste to the heatsink's threads:
dscf4533.jpg



Apply "special" grease to threads and o-ring:
dscf4535.jpg



and we are almost ready:
dscf4536.jpg


dscf4537.jpg



For this first one, I am using a single A123 cell:
dscf4538.jpg



which of course is too short:
dscf4539.jpg


dscf4540.jpg



So I have to make a custom battery sleeve:
dscf4541.jpg


dscf4542.jpg


dscf4543.jpg


dscf4544.jpg


dscf4545.jpg



and eventually, after a million chips, it fits:
dscf4546.jpg



Then I bore the sleeve until the battery fits:
dscf4547.jpg


dscf4548.jpg



Then I create the Aluminum "plug" to fit the sleeve:
dscf4549.jpg



I make the small tower for flat cells and to clear the outer plastic sleeve on the battery:
dscf4550.jpg



work on the tailcap side:
dscf4551.jpg



I then remove the coating/HA from the edge of the main tube for better electrical contact:
dscf4557.jpg



and now I am ready to assemble the pieces:
dscf4559.jpg


dscf4560.jpg


dscf4561.jpg



and after all of these many, many hours, it does work:
dscf4562.jpg



To seal the head against water, I am using clear silicon (it goes on white, but cures clear):
dscf4563.jpg



and this is how it looks like outside:
dscf4565.jpg



I hope this helps :)

Will
 

darkzero

Flashaholic* ,
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
4,459
Location
SoCal
Very nice work & awsome pics Will! I think I'm going to have to send two of these your way. :thumbsup: :wave:
 

Daylight

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 27, 2007
Messages
182
Location
Burgos (Spain)
I am not a Barbolight boom proof host owner... but you have done a awesome work!!


It's fantastic man :bow:, you must be tired.

Regards
 

MWClint

Enlightened
Joined
May 27, 2008
Messages
849
Location
Albany, NY
Wow, beautiful work on the bomb proof host! It's going to be
interesting to see how all these pan out. There's so much you can
do with these hosts. There's going to be a lot of unique lights
stemming from these Barbolights.

Will, you inspired me to finish mine today. :candle:
 

DocD

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
432
Location
guildford england
got to say i'm liking the super tight p7 hot spot and just think about the time and effort you put in to building this WOW big up to the wquiles :thumbsup:
cheers DocD
 

tanasit

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
1,008
Thanks for the great informative post.
You must have spent a LOT of time onthis one.:twothumbs:twothumbs
Tanasit
 

griff

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
1,917
Location
Kansas
Will, Once again you give hope to anyone with the ability and the means to try their hand a modding. I don't want to take anything away from your skill
but you make it look so simple. Start to finnish with excellent photography and complete descriptions of each step. This step by step tutorial is valuable
and for me very interesting. :twothumbs
I wish more of the accomplished modders here a CPF could follow your lead , pull the curtain back and as my mathematics' teacher use to say "show your work" .CPF former member "3rd Shift"... Rest in Peace ,left us with several step by step projects that were along the lines of this project .

Flashlight's for Dummies :naughty:

Please keep up the good work:candle:
 

1996alnl

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 10, 2008
Messages
649
WOW!
Simply outstanding,no one would know you made that light if you didn't show us.
Looks 100% factury quality.
 

wquiles

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,459
Location
Texas, USA, Earth
OK, an improvement over the original ...

When I used the A123 cell (nominal voltage of about 3.3Volts), I noted it was not super bright as the other P7 lights I have done, so when I measured the current draw I understood why: 1.4Amps. So tonight, I decided to try an 18650 cell instead (nominal voltage of 3.7Volts). Sure enough, it measured about 2.5Amps, and "noticeably" brighter. Here are some pics ...

The Protected 18650 cells are a tad higher than the A123 cells, but not as wide, so it was just a mater of making a new sleeve for the new cell. From left to right, AW Protected 18650 cell, A123 cell, protected 18650 cell:
dscf4568.jpg



Raw piece of Delrin (acetal) ready:
dscf4569.jpg



Working on the new sleeve's ID:
dscf4570.jpg


dscf4571.jpg



then work on the OD:
dscf4572.jpg



use round bit to smooth the edge:
dscf4575.jpg



sleeve is ready:
dscf4573.jpg


dscf4574.jpg




work on the plug:
dscf4576.jpg


dscf4577.jpg




now everything is ready for assembly:
dscf4578.jpg



comparing both sleeves:
dscf4579.jpg



and it works, and it is brighter!:
dscf4580.jpg



Here is a shot taken with the camera pointed at the ceiling in my garage, camera stationary, on manual exposure, under-exposed to show the brightness difference. It is not night and day difference, but definitely very significant improvement.

First the A123 cell:
dscf4586.jpg



then the 18650 cell:
dscf4587.jpg



It might have lower capacity, but I know which one I would take along on a dark alley ... :devil:

Will
 
Top