wquiles
Flashaholic
This is a project that I started last fall, when Javier (Barbolight) made available for sale the "Bomb-proof hosts". Javier was kind enough to also help me with the reflectors for the P7, so this here is the DIY and photo journal (blog?) of how to do it. Second from left to right, here is the host next to some other known suspects:
At least for this first one, I am using/modifying an existing "D" size P7 heatsink, but I will make my own going forward. Here are the pieces before starting:
The reflector does not fit in the head, neither wide nor length wise, so I had to modify both the head and the reflector. First the head:
Then the reflector:
The head needs more work, so that the angled part of the reflector can go through the hole:
Now the reflector fits. It floats a little, but we will "fix" that later on:
Since I need to figure out the proper positioning and I want the heatsink to stay in place even if the light is drop and/or abused, I decided to thread the body and the heatsink for a solid fit:
Then thread the body:
make sure parts fit:
I made the top flat to fit this application and to allow the reflector to center the LED in place:
I have tried with both the P7 and the MC-E, but only with these great reflectors that Javier sent, only the P7 works well and centers well.
So I took the heatsink, and threaded a hole for the negative contact – it is supposed to be a bomb-proof host, so I am trying to go the extra mile at every step:
I used the reflector to center the LED, and two-part thermal epoxy:
I then installed the lens and o-rings (very tight fit!):
I used high-temp silicone to set the reflector in place:
To create a positive contact for the battery, I used proto-board, cut and shapped to the right size:
The positive contact will have a spring, and I am mechanically attaching it to the proto-board:
Underside of the positive contact, ready for soldering:
Here I already soldered the wires to the LED, and got the negative wire connected to the heatsink via the screw:
Solder the positive wire:
Epoxy around the LED and wires for extra measure:
Epoxy the protoboard in place:
and epoxy the base of the spring for extra measure:
Apply thermal paste to the heatsink's threads:
Apply "special" grease to threads and o-ring:
and we are almost ready:
For this first one, I am using a single A123 cell:
which of course is too short:
So I have to make a custom battery sleeve:
and eventually, after a million chips, it fits:
Then I bore the sleeve until the battery fits:
Then I create the Aluminum "plug" to fit the sleeve:
I make the small tower for flat cells and to clear the outer plastic sleeve on the battery:
work on the tailcap side:
I then remove the coating/HA from the edge of the main tube for better electrical contact:
and now I am ready to assemble the pieces:
and after all of these many, many hours, it does work:
To seal the head against water, I am using clear silicon (it goes on white, but cures clear):
and this is how it looks like outside:
I hope this helps
Will
At least for this first one, I am using/modifying an existing "D" size P7 heatsink, but I will make my own going forward. Here are the pieces before starting:
The reflector does not fit in the head, neither wide nor length wise, so I had to modify both the head and the reflector. First the head:
Then the reflector:
The head needs more work, so that the angled part of the reflector can go through the hole:
Now the reflector fits. It floats a little, but we will "fix" that later on:
Since I need to figure out the proper positioning and I want the heatsink to stay in place even if the light is drop and/or abused, I decided to thread the body and the heatsink for a solid fit:
Then thread the body:
make sure parts fit:
I made the top flat to fit this application and to allow the reflector to center the LED in place:
I have tried with both the P7 and the MC-E, but only with these great reflectors that Javier sent, only the P7 works well and centers well.
So I took the heatsink, and threaded a hole for the negative contact – it is supposed to be a bomb-proof host, so I am trying to go the extra mile at every step:
I used the reflector to center the LED, and two-part thermal epoxy:
I then installed the lens and o-rings (very tight fit!):
I used high-temp silicone to set the reflector in place:
To create a positive contact for the battery, I used proto-board, cut and shapped to the right size:
The positive contact will have a spring, and I am mechanically attaching it to the proto-board:
Underside of the positive contact, ready for soldering:
Here I already soldered the wires to the LED, and got the negative wire connected to the heatsink via the screw:
Solder the positive wire:
Epoxy around the LED and wires for extra measure:
Epoxy the protoboard in place:
and epoxy the base of the spring for extra measure:
Apply thermal paste to the heatsink's threads:
Apply "special" grease to threads and o-ring:
and we are almost ready:
For this first one, I am using a single A123 cell:
which of course is too short:
So I have to make a custom battery sleeve:
and eventually, after a million chips, it fits:
Then I bore the sleeve until the battery fits:
Then I create the Aluminum "plug" to fit the sleeve:
I make the small tower for flat cells and to clear the outer plastic sleeve on the battery:
work on the tailcap side:
I then remove the coating/HA from the edge of the main tube for better electrical contact:
and now I am ready to assemble the pieces:
and after all of these many, many hours, it does work:
To seal the head against water, I am using clear silicon (it goes on white, but cures clear):
and this is how it looks like outside:
I hope this helps
Will