Arc "Triple A" Battery?

Arc \"Triple A\" Battery?

I'm sure this question has been asked before, but which "triple A" is the best for an Arc? Formally, I would have said "Duracell copper top" without hesitation. However, I own several PALights and they told me that they did an experiment regarding which 9V would last the longest and it turned out to be the "Energizer". The length of operation of the PALs was significantly longer with the Energizers. I just thought you guys who have owned Arcs for a long time might have noticed a difference.In my case, collecting these great little flashlights has become...well, I don't know WHAT it's become! I keep looking and buying~looking and buying. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gifKR

Re: Arc

In my experience it's not worth it to get too wrapped up in the "which battery is better" debate. In a "cost per unit runtime" point of view, you are best off with the cheapest alkaline you can find. You'll wind up paying 50%-400% more for those "big advertiser brand" batteries and get perhaps 10% more runtime... just my 2¢

Re: Arc

Save your money and use the Rayovac Maximum cells. They are the best and dont' cost as much.

Re: Arc

I would say you may use any battery that you think is good except you are in life and death situation where survival is the most important thing. In general, you don't need the best as you cannot tell the time difference, but hey, you use it intermittently anyway.

Re: Arc

Find the best runtime to cost ratio that does not leak. If it leaks, the extra buck you saved on the battery won't make up for the damage to the light.

Peter

Re: Arc \"Triple A\" Battery?

Regardless of brand name, the best battery is a fresh battery. Take advantage of the expiration date--as a tool of comparison rather than an absolute number. I've seen batteries for sale labeled "expires 2007" right next to otherwise identical batteries labeled "expires 2009." Guess which batteries had been sitting on the shelf for two years?

Unless you're buying an ultra-cheap brand, differences in battery age will probably swamp any differences between brands. And even if the Duracells and Energizers last longer, the extra life will not be commensurate with the extra cost.

Re: Arc

The "best runtime/cost" for me has been fresh Walgreen's (drug store) batteries. They have average to better energy and regularly go on sale at quite decent prices. Walgreen's also seems to move enough of them that if one pays atention to expiration date one can get quite fresh ones. (That, and there's a Walgreen's only two blocks away ... )

Besides, my Arc AAA likes them ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Re: Arc

I'd recommend you get yourself a decent charger and some high-capacity NiMH AAAs (around 700 mAh). There was a thread about using rechargeables in the ArcAAA recently and they'll give you about the same sun-mode runtime as alkalines but they'll drop into moon-mode faster. I use a pair of 3 years old 500 mAh NiMH-AAAs and they will power the Arc for about 4 - 5 hours straight sun-mode (and no noticeable brightness drop). I top them off every weekend (takes about an hour) and they do fine. No alkalines for me anymore /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Chris

Re: Arc

I say go for the cheapest alkaline batteries available at the time, but prefer name brands if on sale. Look for sales or rebates and stock up. I recently bought 4 eight packs of E2 AAAs at $2.25 each on clearance at a local pharmacy. I've used off brands also with no problems and competitive performance. There's little advantage in paying a premium price.

I prefer to buy cheap and replace the batteries long before they are near dead, like instead of trying to get 5 hours out of it I go for 3 since I prefer to have the light be as bright as economically possible all the time. Some people use "dead" batteries from other devices in their Arcs. I do it in vice-versa since most of those devices are not as critical(remotes, etc.) I keep my EDC stuff in top condition and ready for the worst. I test them occasionally and change them when they get below 1.3 volts (after resting a bit). I figure I don't want to get caught in a situation where I need a couple hours of useful light and find that the battery in there is not up to it because it was already near dead (I don't generally carry a spare AAA on me). Also, by changing the battery early, the issue of leakage, esp. with cheapos, is reduced since they usually only leak when near dead or old.

Re: Arc

when using alkalines, i always use duracells because they've had a good track record with me. i had numerous energizers leak on me and nearly destory several maglites, a cd player, and an electric travel shaver. never had that problem with duracells, so i'll stick with them despite the slight premium in costs. as for lithium batteries i just use whatever's cheapest /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Re: Arc

Tomas: I didn't want to admit it, but since YOU did, I will too. I also have been using Walgreens batteries. A Walgreen manager told me that their batteries are actually made by one of the "Big Name Companies" and then have the "Walgreen Name" put on them.
Thank you for all the responses guys!

KR (Will)

Re: Arc

[ QUOTE ]
gyverpete said:
.....I keep my EDC stuff in top condition and ready for the worst. I test them occasionally and change them when they get below 1.3 volts (after resting a bit). I figure I don't want to get caught in a situation where I need a couple hours of useful light and find that the battery in there is not up to it because it was already near dead.... (

[/ QUOTE ]

I couldn't agree more. For me, EDC = "Preparation for an unpredictable situation of unknown duration."

Brightnorm