E01 contact wear?

I just got a Fenix E01, and although I do love it, I'm worried about a potential mechanical weak point. The contacts on the head seem to be just some sorta thin plating, and since the switching requires that thin plating to rub against rough aluminum, I don't think it'd be long before the whole thing wears off... Am I just being silly worrying about that?

I found out that if I switch it so that it's barely off, I can push the bezel down for a momentary on. Is that bad for it?

How waterproof is this fenix light? If I use it 10 feet below water, how will it fare?

Thanks.

Should be fine, no one had had a problem with it yet. A little bit of thread play is normal, evey light has it. Don't use it under water, it's not meant to be a dive light and can (and probably will) fail.

I reckon you could take one down to 10 foot happily enough without failure, but it's not meant to be a dive light... it'll easily cope with any water you throw at it through normal use, providing you're not a scuba diver

I would be more concerned about the o-ring, It is of very poor quality. One of the reasons for its poor water resistance.

I replaced it with a better quality o-ring but it still leaks when swimming

dd61999 said:

I would be more concerned about the o-ring, It is of very poor quality. One of the reasons for its poor water resistance.

I replaced it with a better quality o-ring but it still leaks when swimming

Click to expand...

What O-ring did you replace it with? I didn't think that the water resistance was bad with the E01 but then I have never had mine at the bottom of the Mariana trench.

Thanks

TONY M said:

What O-ring did you replace it with? I didn't think that the water resistance was bad with the E01 but then I have never had mine at the bottom of the Mariana trench.

Thanks

Click to expand...

I have stash of different size quality o-rings so I cant tell you exactly what size it is. However, you can find decent o-rings in Home depot.

jeffreyliu838 said:

I just got a Fenix E01, and although I do love it, I'm worried about a potential mechanical weak point. The contacts on the head seem to be just some sorta thin plating, and since the switching requires that thin plating to rub against rough aluminum, I don't think it'd be long before the whole thing wears off... Am I just being silly worrying about that?

Click to expand...

The traces don't really rub against the aluminum. It's really just pressing straight down onto the aluminum. There's no sliding across to speak of. If there was sliding, then your concern would be very much something to worry about.

jeffreyliu838 said:

I found out that if I switch it so that it's barely off, I can push the bezel down for a momentary on. Is that bad for it?

Click to expand...

No, that won't hurt it.

Some of the more knowledgeable CPFers made that observation about the board when the light first came out (Chimo and I believe Marduke).

There were a lot of comparisons to the ARC AAA and the long time reliability of the EO1 board is yet to be determined.

That said, it's a great value at its price point and even it doesn't last as long as it's technology, if you bought it from Fenix-store, it's got a lifetime warranty.

The water rating standard is usually 1 meter for 30 minutes.

It's much more durable than the alternative - conductive threads subject to constant galling.

My keychain LD01 is already past the gold and most of the way past the nickel from the tube abrasion. Copper, here I come! :nana:

jeffreyliu838 said:

I found out that if I switch it so that it's barely off, I can push the bezel down for a momentary on. Is that bad for it?

How waterproof is this fenix light? If I use it 10 feet below water, how will it fare?

Click to expand...

1. I do that too i.e. barely off so i can push the bezel for momentary. I normally have my E01 on a neck lanyard when i am out fishing etc, so being able to have a momentary is great.

2. Waterproof? i have tested my E01 by submerging the entire light (while on and bezel fully tightened) in a glass of water and leaving it in there for an hour or so. Am not sure how deep it can go though

As long as you don't twist the head underwater and have the o-rings and threads properly lubed, it should be good as it's waterproof to IXP-8 standards which I've been told means: IPX8 = Water-Tight Equipment (protected against the effects of submersion; tested to 12 feet/3.6 meters for 24 hours).

kitelights said:

The water rating standard is usually 1 meter for 30 minutes.

Click to expand...

This is actually IXP-7.

IPX8 standards is meaningless when it comes to water resistance.

There is very little water pressure in ipx8 standards regardless how long it stays in the water.


You need to test the light under pressure. Even if you are not a diver, lights come under pressure
1. When you are active with them, such as swimming,
2. From the current such as white water rafting or being in the surf of the ocean
3. The light being impacted such as the light hits a rock when dropped under water.


This is why dive watches are rated way beyond where most people are even capable of diving. Even though they may be only 50 feet, They need a watch with a higher dive rating to resist the water pressure encountered from the above situations I posted.

I have and like my E01 a lot for its' efficiency and spring loaded twisty. That said, I still prefer the mechanics of my Fenix E0 which had a full ring on the PCB to contact the entire end of the body, which I believe greatly reduces the wear on the PCB contacts. Also it's smaller.

And much respect Fenix's engineering, I can't understand why they went from the full ring contact to the 2 point contact of the E01. The costs can't be that different.

EngrPaul said:

My keychain LD01 is already past the gold and most of the way past the nickel from the tube abrasion. Copper, here I come! :nana:

Click to expand...

Or you can do what I did and put wheel-bearing grease on the contacts so they don't grind.

nerdgineer said:

I have and like my E01 a lot for its' efficiency and spring loaded twisty. That said, I still prefer the mechanics of my Fenix E0 which had a full ring on the PCB to contact the entire end of the body, which I believe greatly reduces the wear on the PCB contacts. Also it's smaller.

And much respect Fenix's engineering, I can't understand why they went from the full ring contact to the 2 point contact of the E01. The costs can't be that different.

Click to expand...

I can agree with this. It must have been a style decision. At least they figured another way to not require contact through the threads.

Geoff

What's wrong with conducting electricity through the threads? Peak and Arc flashlights do just fine with it.

deusexaethera said:

What's wrong with conducting electricity through the threads? Peak and Arc flashlights do just fine with it.

Click to expand...

You get increased wear from galling, and the threads get dirty and gritty leading to intermittent contact issues and flickering.

Anodized threads tend to be buttery smooth, and last far longer as they do not wear as fast. The electrical path tends to be more reliable.