TNVC Q5 CREE in a SF Scout Light problem

I've poked around and tried searching but wasn't able to find what I'm looking for.

I have a SF Scout Light with the larger incandescent head (LU60?). I've recently been using some of Tactical Night Vision's Q5s in SF G2's which I like. I don't know much about flashlights (I guess enough to create problems). I thought I would add a Q5 to the Scout Light. I figured the setup should work, right? A six volt system that uses a P60 lamp, I didn't think there would be an issue. It didn't work.

I tried two different TNVC Q5 lamps with this setup that are known to work otherwise, a no go. I tried the Q5 using a 6P head (with the adapter on the Scout Light) and nothing. I removed the larger, outer spring on the Q5 and still nothing. I'm at a loss.

I did get occasional light up when the head was just barely screwed on. Literally screwed on something like one full turn after the threads met. This was way to lose to use.

Any ideas? I would really like to use this setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Can anybody help me out?

The dreaded intermittent contact problem...

The issue is the tolerances between the various "P60" sized parts and how they contact each other - springs, body, head. Since you have all SF parts except the drop in you have a few less variables to worry about.

Try wrapping the body of the drop in with aluminum foil, I have hear that works. A standard 6P head might work better than the shock isolated head as well. Malkoff sells a wave washer that works in the shock isolated heads - you may want to try one of those too - they are not expensive.

BSBG, I'd actually ordered a couple washers a few days ago as a hell mary attempt. I'll try the aluminum foil too.

Thanks!

I have had some issues with some lights and aftermarkets items.

My first suggestion is if the spring fits in there and it will tighten down properly, try sanding some of the anodizing (to reveal bare aluminum for conductivity) towards the inside of the body where the bottom of the spring actually makes ground contact. This will require modification of course and will likely void your warranty.

Second solution I often use is, gently rewind the lower portions (final ring) of the springs included with the aftermarket lamp assemblies to match up with the diameter of the original surefire incan lamp assy's with great sucess using 2 pairs of sturdy needle nose pliers. If you're able to do that, instead of sanding the body, it should work. Doing this should make the spring fully seat down in the bare machined aluminum portion of the body the original spring contact for the ground. Don't decrease the diameter too much or the positive contact from the battery may not touch the center button/spring of the CREE module.

On my scoutlight, I ended up using a single stage CREE TLS head for it https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2630762
They do come in black also!

I hope the modification suggestions weren't too vague....Hope this helps!

I've got an LU60 on a different light body, it should be close to the LU60A. To be certain it would be helpful if you could post a picture of the socket your drop in fits into.

I had intermittent contact issues with a M60 in the LU60. I solved it by stretching the center contact spring on the drop in and creating a long outer spring by winding copper wire around a battery.

Ify ou can make it work, +1, but I really must say I am a major proponent of the KX2C head.

I tried the tin foil after reading BSBG's reply. It worked when I used the 6p head.

Thanks for the additional suggestions. I'll try them out.