Can't decide on which Raw to get?

farscape105

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Feb 7, 2005
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Hi, I am trying to decide on the Al or Ns and also which lumen combo to get. Any thoughts? I like the chrome appearance of the Al one. Does one or the other polish up better after use? I see the Al one only comes with 3 trits. Is there that much of a noticeable difference between 200 and 100 lumen? I have a fenix lod I run on 10440's. Is the 100/20 similar to the High/Low of a lod? Thanks
 

Lermite

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Mar 16, 2008
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I have the NS and the Ti.
Between NS and Al, I would recommend Al because the NS gets oxydated very fastly and it loose all its shining appearance.
In more, the NS is 2 x heavier than the Ti but it is quite weaker. Any drop on the floor damages the body, especially the edge of the head.
This weakness is the main reason wich made me to order the Ti to replace my twisted NS.
About the lumens choice, I think 20/200 is perfect.
200 is still amazing from a so tiny light.
100 is too near to 200 and too far away from a low mode.
20 is not too low, but not too high for a low mode. It's perfect to light the keys to open a door by night, or anything a low mode is better for.
 

rockz4532

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I would suggest the standard 200/20 lumen setting, 20 lumens for everyday things, and 200 for those oh $#!* times.
 

crocodilo

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I have a 100/20 NS, and couldn't be happier with the brightness choices. Low is adequate for 90% of the times, and high still has a usable runtime without having to lug around spare batteries.
 

farscape105

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Thanks, anybody know where there are runtime charts of the different modes. I have searched any can't find any.
 

Jarl

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It can be surmised as "not long" ;). If you're worried about runtime beyond knowing it's about 20 minutes on a good day, then this isn't the light for you.


It is an absolutely phenomenal light though... I have a 20/200 raw al. Loves it =)
 

NonSenCe

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Last week I ordered Raw AL too. so there were some left still.

chose the aluminum because i am afraid that i am bit allergic to coins.. so NS would of been just tempting my fate.

also AL was alot lighter than NS (ns 40g, al 24g = almost same as wee ns 20g)

took the 100/20
to me its a tiny backup that probably dont need to go for WOW effect at all.. and if i do need to go there, then i rather have a bit longer runtime than 15-30minutes the 200 mode is said to have. said to be 90mins on 100lm (i would be happy with real 60mins)


*when i first heard of orb/lummi raw. i was amazed. then i learned it was made of titanium. i got depressed. costed too much money. its cool but too valuable to me.

then i refound it later as ns. and was intrigued. this the same thing as before? no. its cheaper and better. with better leds! cool.

but crap its nickel. my skin wouldnt like that much. and also i thought the pound vs euro was still 1 to 1.5.. grr.. ohkay. lets think this some other day again.

then came third time that i found lummi and raw. and learned that there is raw AL! its cheaper than ns and they are limited edition and not sold out yet!

oh man i need money to get one.. was still thinking the pound conversion and said to myself "ohkay its fine even if it costs 70euros or so to get one.. as this is the third time im loving the same flashlight just as like it was a new find/model!" hah.

but then i saw that 50pounds would make only 56 euros..

and that i can get a warm tint led for no extra cost!

i couldnt resist more than a week before ordering one.

now im just waiting it to arrive!
 
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sappyg

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I would suggest the standard 200/20 lumen setting, 20 lumens for everyday things, and 200 for those oh $#!* times.

ditto.... 20 lumin is good... 200 lumin is off the hook! check the lummi web page for correct runtimes.. you should probably get 45-60 minutes on low.... 15 minutes on high.
can't speak to a comparison with an LOD.
if i were going to buy another i would definately try to get the AL version.
 

MKLight

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I have a 100/20 NS, and couldn't be happier with the brightness choices. Low is adequate for 90% of the times, and high still has a usable runtime without having to lug around spare batteries.

+1 I have 20/100, 20/200, and 100/200 that I use. If I could only take one with me, it would be the 20/100. Like Crocodilo said, 20lm is adequate for the majority of uses. When you need a longer running high, the 100lm lasts up to 90min (and doesn't get as warm), while the 200lm only lasts about 30min.

Any choice you choose is good. I like them all. I carried the 100/200 for a while, but realized I needed a lower low. When I carry that, I also carry a Wee with a 50 or 25lm emitter.

Good luck,
Mike
 

MKLight

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Hi, I am trying to decide on the Al or Ns and also which lumen combo to get. Any thoughts? I like the chrome appearance of the Al one. Does one or the other polish up better after use? I see the Al one only comes with 3 trits. Is there that much of a noticeable difference between 200 and 100 lumen? I have a fenix lod I run on 10440's. Is the 100/20 similar to the High/Low of a lod? Thanks

There is a difference in regards to the 100 vs the 200lm. It throws better and overall its brighter, but is not visually 100% brighter due to how our eyes see things on a a logarithmic scale. There are other threads that can explain that better than I. Overall, it depends on your needs. I think the trade off for added runtime with the 20/100 is nice. But, as I mentioned a moment ago, I have more than one Raw and each one has a different LE (light emitter).

As for the Fenix L0D on 10440's, I need to recharge the batteries, but the Raw's 100lm were brighter than the L0D's on 10440's on high. IIRC, with fresh batteries, the L0D will be brighter on high versus the Raw 100, but about the same as the Raw 200. Also, both the L0D on high and the Raw at 200 will have about the same runtime.

Lastly, the NS polishes up very nicely! I don't have an Al model to compare it to, but I also like my Ti. The weight difference between the NS, Al, or Ti are noticeable, with the NS being the heaviest. The NS looks and feels very jewel-like. I haven't seen the Al in person, but I would assume it looks very nice and being bare, can be polished nicely (there are posts on that, too). The Ti is nice; maybe a little over the top. Anyway you go, you will be happy...and probably will end up getting the model you didn't originally get...just out of curiosity. :whistle:

Good luck! :twothumbs
Mike
 

Lermite

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Thanks, anybody know where there are runtime charts of the different modes. I have searched any can't find any.
Here is the test of my RAW TI R2:
RAW_Ti.png


OK, perhaps 20/100 would be better for this flashlight :)
 

farscape105

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Feb 7, 2005
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Thanks everyone...decided on getting the Al version with 100/20. Probably have to order the 50 lumen Wee when I get the Raw. :)
 

gsxrac

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Hey guys! How do you know which ones are in stock. Im SOLD on a RAW Ti its just an awesome looking piece of art work. Not to mention 200 lm out of something THAT small!!! And do they ship to the US? how much difference is the the GBP from the dollar right now?
 
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MKLight

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There is a difference in regards to the 100 vs the 200lm. It throws better and overall its brighter, but is ot visually 100% brighter due to how our eyes see things on a a logarithmic scale. There are other threads that can explain that better than I. Overall, it depends on your needs. I think the trade off for added runtime with the 20/100 is nice. But, as I mentioned a moment ago, I have more than one Raw and each one has a different LE (light emitter).

As for the Fenix L0D on 10440's, I need to recharge the batteries, but the Raw's 100lm were brighter than the L0D's on 10440's on high. IIRC, with fresh batteries, the L0D will be brighter on high versus the Raw 100, but about the same as the Raw 200. Also, both the L0D on high and the Raw at 200 will have about the same runtime.

Lastly, the NS polishes up very nicely! I don't have an Al model to compare it to, but I also like my Ti. The weight difference between the NS, Al, or Ti are noticeable, with the NS being the heaviest. The NS looks and feels very jewel-like. I haven't seen the Al in person, but I would assume it looks very nice and being bare, can be polished nicely (there are posts on that, too). The Ti is nice; maybe a little over the top. Anyway you go, you will be happy...and probably will end up getting the model you didn't originally get...just out of curiosity. :whistle:

Good luck! :twothumbs
Mike

I just checked by eye and an L0D on 10440's medium is about the Raw's 100lm level. The L0D's high is not nearly as bright as the Raw's 200lm mark. I don't have a 20lm Raw with me, but I would say the L0D's low is probably comparable with it.

Good luck!
Mike
 

MKLight

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Hey guys! How do you know which ones are in stock. Im SOLD on a RAW Ti its just an awesome looking piece of art work. Not to mention 200 lm out of something THAT small!!! And do they ship to the US? how much difference is the the euro from the dollar right now?

Hey gsxrac!

The models in stock are on the upper left hand side of the Lummi website. Right now, it looks as if the Ti (Wee and Raw), the NS (Wee and Raw), and possibly the Aluminum models are in stock.

They do ship to the US. Expect a delivery time of approximately 2 weeks from when you order it. Rob says to expect it within 30 days. The dollar versus the British Pound is about 25% higher...for a 100pound light, it would cost about $125US. The difference is usually about 50% greater, so it's a decent time to buy. :poke:

Good luck!
Mike
 

Southernlight

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I don't mean to hijack the thread - an apologize in advance, but can I ask what tritium inserts have you ordered with your RAW? :confused:
 

wbp

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Feb 11, 2008
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Im SOLD on a RAW Ti its just an awesome looking piece of art work.

Hey, I've got a Raw Ti that I have decided I don't need, just haven't gotten around to listing it. Has trits, and when carried was in the plastic tube, so it's pristine. Let me know if you're interested - no waiting!

William
 
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