im kinda new to the whole flashlight thing, my buddy got me into this, and im kinda addicted...im currently a campus police officer and i just used to carry a rechargeable stream light...well that got stolen...long story....so i have this 3xaaa coleman max led light and i actually like this more then my stream light (probably the led brightness)...anyways, my buddy told me to find an upgrade bulb for it to take it from 115 to lumens to something brighter? i dont care about burning batteries i get them free from the department. i just want this light brighter. after playing with his sure fire im addicted...its kinda sad when his lil single mini leatherman is basically brighter if not more, and his surefire just blinds you.
so anyways sorry with the ramble...what bulb and what do i have to do to get my lil coleman brighter... and i dont want to buy a new light...
If you're wanting to buy a brighter light, at a similar price, and substantially smaller, without caring about runtime (~2 hours on high), and aren't in a huge hurry, I'd recommend the Akoray
K-109 (single AA). Here's a
review. Maybe even order along with the parts to upgrade your MAX to the same or a bit brighter.
First off, I'm assuming it's the same as mine (single emitter, pic
here); there's a variety of Coleman MAXes available, so it's hard to know for sure... if it's not, no telling how similar or different its guts may be. The multi-color versions, particularly, are probably quite different.
Short version of following paragraphs: you can get up to perhaps double the brightness with an emitter that runs maybe $5, but it's not as easy as dropping a new bulb in a Mag or SF. Some soldering at the least, maybe some dremel or filing work. You could go nuts and get 4x or more if you
also redo the complete drive circuit, and use about an emitter that costs $20ish. If neither of those sounds good, go buy a new light. If it sounds doable (or if you're just curious) read on. (And buy a new light anyway! You
never have enough! :welcome
For disassembly, no vise is needed -- it has flats on the body for a crescent wrench, and you can
very carefully grip the head tightly with channel-locks and open it without marking it at all. (
Don't do this if you really care about marking it up, though, since accidents do happen. You could probably get it off risk-free with a rubber-lined strap wrench.) Key is to get the teeth on the channel-locks properly aligned to two of the eight notches in the head, and then grip it tightly before applying torque so it doesn't slip.
Once you get the head, and reflector, off, you can unscrew a plastic retaining ring and take the pill out. The XR-E emitter is mounted on a ~18mm board, riveted (with hollow rivets the wires run through) to a ~24mm metal base, which is heat-staked to the plastic body of the pill. Not sure what bin the emitter is, I think I heard current ones are P2, which sounds reasonable (they say 115 lm on the packaging).
If you have replacement rivets, this would be upgradeable to Q5 with one of
these or similar (assuming the holes match up), but if not you've two options: rework the mechanics of the light significantly (freeing you to use any convenient size of board, including the widely available 19mm hexagonal stars, and use heat-conducting epoxy, screws and nuts, solder, etc. to mount it down) or remove that emitter from the board (leaving the board riveted down) and solder the new one on. Also, I think it's just using a resistor drive, so if you take the metal base off the plastic body you could add a driver; you might squeeze a bit more light out, and definitely keep constant light through the run.
I've got an R2 (the brightest XR-E bin available now) on 19mm star ordered (from
here), and will be trying this upgrade when it arrives in a few days/weeks. Gonna open the pill and verify the drive circuit, but not add a driver at this point. (I'm considering a buck driver to run it from 3x10440 (same size as AAA, will fit in the stock holder with very slight modification, but 3.7V each), if/when I get around to it.)
If you're willing to sacrifice some beam tightness, you could probably even upgrade this to an MC-E (wired in parallel), but to really leverage the MC-E you'll want to increase the current (i.e., change the resistor, or add a driver) And serious drive currents for an MC-E will be murder on KOH cells -- it should probably be made direct-drive (from NiMH only), or use a driver and Lithium or NiMH. (But if you wanted to do
that, you'd have probably posted in Custom & Mod!
)