Need more details Novatac with 17670 tube and Hogos 18650 Mod.

Ok, I read the thread by Hogo(doesnt seem like he is on here much anymore) at least 6 times .

Can some of you that are doing it and actually using the light in this configuration tell me how reliable and realistic it is to do this?

The way I see it and based on the pics and all, it seems like there is a good chance to have a battery short with this setup and possibly a bad result with a Li-Ion Rechargeable exploding on you.

How hard is it to extract the battery for charging? does the strip deform and bend easy and need constant adjustment?

I am thinking maybe I should try this , already spent the $ on the tube and a AW17670 which gives runtime roughly equal toa Cr123 primary but am thinking maybe I should try this and spend more on getting an 18650 for even more runtime in the same size setup . But it wouldnt be worth it if its a PITA to deal with..

Just bumping in the hopes someone might have some input.....:candle:

I had the set up for a few month and didn't have any problem with it. The battery comes out smooth and it will not short once made correctly. And it is cheap.

it is very easy but please ensure that the brass stripe does not touch the positive contact point ( both on the cell & the novatac contact point )
been using this set up for almost 2 months with no issue at all.
i use the brass stripe that i ripped off from an old incan cheap flashlight switch contact and it works marvelously.

Ok thanx for the input guys.

But, I am not the sharpest tack in the box

When this metal strip is used what exactly is it touching, the screw down "rings" at the head and the tail switch?

And why bend it over the positive end of the battery at about 90 degrees but at the tail end it is a "slight" bend? Does this combo of bends make the strip press against the tailcap ring and push the strip up into the head and against the Positive ring in the head?

And when you take the battery out , do you do it from the tail or head end and does the strip and all come out?

i don't bend mine at the head and the tailcap just cut it at suitable length and you are set.
the strip never touches the positive ring but the outer ring (for signal path)
i took out the cell from both ways which ever is convenient.

From Hogo's post,
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/207486
"See that outer ring? It's not just for holding in the pill. This is the main "negative" for the flashlight. See that big flat ring inside that? That is where the spring needs to make contact"

You want to make a bar that carries the switching signal between the "big flat ring inside the outer ring" in the head and tail.
Also after you understand the signal path of the light, please be sure to check out the troubleshooting tips at the end of the post before going for it.

Good luck!

AAAh ok I think I get it. The strip has to contact the flat "plate" that the spring is soldered to in the head section. ( I have a more recent 120T) NOT the screw down ring that holds the LE in there. I was confused with the talk of rings since to me the positive contact area is more of a flat "plate" or something like that.
I was wondering how the strip if bent at the top , made contact with the positive late: with the spring/or nubbys without the risk of touching the battery positive nipple but I am startiing to get it now I think.

Still seems a bit risky but I cant stop thinking about the increased runtimes and I like using this tube. A real handful of light but not bulky or excessive