Inside the New EagleTac P100C2 and P100A2 (more flashlight nudity)

May I be the first to violate her.

I'm only getting started :devil:

It is me or the screw at the pill look rusty?

The screw is actually gold plated.

The pill came out without the usual drama, the red adhesive lets go rather well and is quite flaky after removal.

I've pulled off the adhesive-backed material around the emitter for these pictures.

I poked at the white stuff. It's solid, not gooey. Sothe board is held down by epoxy. This will need to be lifted in order to reflow a different emitter.

For those of you with offcenter emitters, the reason is the thin polymer sheet (seen above) or the way the emitter was reflowed on the PCB.

EngrPaul said:

The screw is actually gold plated.

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:twothumbs

again something only for robots..

looks neat. suprising neat for "budget" light

Was the pill very hard to take out?

NonSenCe said:

suprising neat for "budget" light

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I cleaned all the goop off the parts before the pictures. :tinfoil:

ernsanada said:

Was the pill very hard to take out?

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At first, but once it let go there was little struggle left.

Gol durn red loctite :hairpull:

I'm practically jumping up and down with excitement...any idea if the P100A2 will be susceptible to the same...?

Can't wait for mine to arrive.

What procedure did you use to get the split contact ring out? I tried lifting mine out with a hooked dental pic, but not luck. The ends, where it is split would lift up, but not the back part.

Nake said:

What procedure did you use to get the split contact ring out? I tried lifting mine out with a hooked dental pic, but not luck. The ends, where it is split would lift up, but not the back part.

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After you lift the one end, take your dental pick to the end of the ring still engaged and turn the ring. This unscrewing action will release the ring... as you turn more of the ring will be free until it's fully released.

The plan is to convert these XP-E's from cool white to neutral white using a reflow process and solder paste.

The emitters that come off will go into a couple Fenix E1's (the old ones with nichia power LED's on a board). I bought two E1's for under $30 on Ebay from a seller in Vermont.... they have more.

Very nice work. Wish I was capable of reflow soldering. I have barely soldered anything in my life. I have a cool white R2 bin XP-E sitting here waiting for me to decide on something to do with it.

i'm not the biggest fan of the cool white myself, but i am very satisfied with this light nonetheless.

Nake said:

What procedure did you use to get the split contact ring out? I tried lifting mine out with a hooked dental pic, but not luck. The ends, where it is split would lift up, but not the back part.

Click to expand...

A 90 degree pick works well

OK, here's the end of the story.

I rubbed my chin while looking at the pill and realized, I'll have to dig out the circuit board in order to reflow a new emitter. I'm not gonna do that since I don't have a spare board.


So I went to put it back together, and found that it can be turned too far. The reflector hole goes past the LED and boogers up the white (silver) material.

No biggie, I discarded the tape and went with the nude look.

I used thermal epoxy to set the LED at the best focus without a donut hole. :thumbsup:

Needless to say, I'm going to let my A2 alone. :naughty:

Was it not possible to pry up and replace the entire board?

Wow!
Look at the size of that LED!