I'm thinking about making a light out of only the head of a Mag D and a luxeon star/o. I'm not sure what kind of batteries I'd use yet, but could probably only get around an hour of run time. Anybody want to recomend a different light source?
What do you think of my idea?
- Thread starter zmoz
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Rothrandir
Flashaholic
yes...it would be hard to hold...
but great coolness factor! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
but great coolness factor! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
tsg68
Flashlight Enthusiast
I would like to see that. The "Off with it's Head Mag Mod"!
I think someone should make a cyan LS (or bipolar LS's) baseball shaped light for playing catch at night. A cyan light spinning through the air in pitch blackness, just think of the new life it would breathe into the UFO phenomenon!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
Later,
TSG /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I think someone should make a cyan LS (or bipolar LS's) baseball shaped light for playing catch at night. A cyan light spinning through the air in pitch blackness, just think of the new life it would breathe into the UFO phenomenon!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
Later,
TSG /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
flashlightlens
Newly Enlightened
Call it the "Fatty"
e=mc²
Enlightened
Hey zmoz, I've used a micropuck from LEDSupply (a tiny little thing at that) and successfully powered 1W cyan and white LEDs with just ONE alkaline cell. It even worked on a single AAA, but as for runtime, I'm not sure. I never ran it to depletion. After the holiday weekend, I will give it a runtime test, if interested. If you have any leftover Everleds, they use the same technology as the MicroPuck, so you can see first hand. The one I've ordered from you runs fine on a single AA, but again, I've never clocked it in the runtime department.
BTW, very interesting idea indeed!
Ed
BTW, very interesting idea indeed!
Ed
Joe400
Newly Enlightened
ZMOZ, I think its a good idea but I agree with some of the other members about the head being a little bulbus and hard to grip. Perhaps cutting the head down somthing like this might help, maybe even knurling it for a better grip. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Joe, that head looks much better than the "fat hipped" Mag stocker. Now it sort of looks like the Craftsman torch.
It's unfortunate the threads on the butt cap don't mesh up with the head. If they did, you could probably just fit one CR123 or CR2 and a step up board + emitter. You might be able to use a stack of watch batteries (like a CR2032). It wouldn't run for long though.
If you could fit the tailcap, you might have a reason to call it the "butt plug" light. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif
Wilkey
It's unfortunate the threads on the butt cap don't mesh up with the head. If they did, you could probably just fit one CR123 or CR2 and a step up board + emitter. You might be able to use a stack of watch batteries (like a CR2032). It wouldn't run for long though.
If you could fit the tailcap, you might have a reason to call it the "butt plug" light. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif
Wilkey
Rothrandir
Flashaholic
joe, i've done the same thing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
it is very seductious with the body, but without, i don't think it would handle quite as well.
i think joes idea would work best...especiall if you used knurling.
if i were you, i would make a endpiece that screws into the bottom of the head, and houses a recessed kroll tailswitch.
this should still allow enough room for a heatsink, battery, converter, and ls/0
i think the best way to power would be a 123 and a dat2zip or micropuck converter...size considerations and all /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
it is very seductious with the body, but without, i don't think it would handle quite as well.
i think joes idea would work best...especiall if you used knurling.
if i were you, i would make a endpiece that screws into the bottom of the head, and houses a recessed kroll tailswitch.
this should still allow enough room for a heatsink, battery, converter, and ls/0
i think the best way to power would be a 123 and a dat2zip or micropuck converter...size considerations and all /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
e=mc² said:
Hey zmoz, I've used a micropuck from LEDSupply (a tiny little thing at that) and successfully powered 1W cyan and white LEDs with just ONE alkaline cell. It even worked on a single AAA, but as for runtime, I'm not sure. I never ran it to depletion. After the holiday weekend, I will give it a runtime test, if interested. If you have any leftover Everleds, they use the same technology as the MicroPuck, so you can see first hand. The one I've ordered from you runs fine on a single AA, but again, I've never clocked it in the runtime department.
BTW, very interesting idea indeed!
Ed
[/ QUOTE ]
That's what I was thinking about, although I'm not very happy with the light output of the everled on just one battery. What if I ran two micropucks in series? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
e=mc² said:
Hey zmoz, I've used a micropuck from LEDSupply (a tiny little thing at that) and successfully powered 1W cyan and white LEDs with just ONE alkaline cell. It even worked on a single AAA, but as for runtime, I'm not sure. I never ran it to depletion. After the holiday weekend, I will give it a runtime test, if interested. If you have any leftover Everleds, they use the same technology as the MicroPuck, so you can see first hand. The one I've ordered from you runs fine on a single AA, but again, I've never clocked it in the runtime department.
BTW, very interesting idea indeed!
Ed
[/ QUOTE ]
That's what I was thinking about, although I'm not very happy with the light output of the everled on just one battery. What if I ran two micropucks in series? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
[ QUOTE ]
e=mc² said:
If you have any leftover Everleds, they use the same technology as the MicroPuck, so you can see first hand.
Ed
[/ QUOTE ]
This is true only in the most general sense, that is they'll both drive a Luxeon on with two cells. While the micropuck is an 'open loop' boost thingie (the output goes up as the input voltage goes up), the Everled has a 'proper regulator'. That is once you get 'on the curve', current drawn goes *down* with voltage rises, output stays constant:
1 Volt, .01 Amps, 9 Fc (Foot Candles)
2 V, .46 A, 450 Fc
3 V, .42 A, 570 Fc
4 V. .35 A, 630 Fc
5 V, .29 A, 650 Fc
6 V, .24 A, 650 Fc
7 V, .20 A, 650 Fc
8 V, .16 A, 650 Fc
9 V, .13 A, 650 Fc
The micorpuck, of course just gets brighter and brighter and brighter.... Kind of a 'chicken race' between the micorpuck and the Luxeon to see who's first to the promised land.
This gives you a whole different sort of output profile over battery life. For instance a 6 Volt flashlight on alkalines is still at very near full brightness when the cells hit the very end of their life at .8 Volts each (3.2 total).
OTOH, the micrpuck (on two cells) has a 'useful battery runtime' (to half initial output) at a bit over two Volts, where we still have 15 or 20% of the total capacity of the battery left. That is when the micropuck has 'wimped out' and gradually dimmed to half brightness, the everled is still clicking along full tilt.
A entirely different technology really. Depends on what you want. Each has it's advanteages, of course.
Doug Owen
e=mc² said:
If you have any leftover Everleds, they use the same technology as the MicroPuck, so you can see first hand.
Ed
[/ QUOTE ]
This is true only in the most general sense, that is they'll both drive a Luxeon on with two cells. While the micropuck is an 'open loop' boost thingie (the output goes up as the input voltage goes up), the Everled has a 'proper regulator'. That is once you get 'on the curve', current drawn goes *down* with voltage rises, output stays constant:
1 Volt, .01 Amps, 9 Fc (Foot Candles)
2 V, .46 A, 450 Fc
3 V, .42 A, 570 Fc
4 V. .35 A, 630 Fc
5 V, .29 A, 650 Fc
6 V, .24 A, 650 Fc
7 V, .20 A, 650 Fc
8 V, .16 A, 650 Fc
9 V, .13 A, 650 Fc
The micorpuck, of course just gets brighter and brighter and brighter.... Kind of a 'chicken race' between the micorpuck and the Luxeon to see who's first to the promised land.
This gives you a whole different sort of output profile over battery life. For instance a 6 Volt flashlight on alkalines is still at very near full brightness when the cells hit the very end of their life at .8 Volts each (3.2 total).
OTOH, the micrpuck (on two cells) has a 'useful battery runtime' (to half initial output) at a bit over two Volts, where we still have 15 or 20% of the total capacity of the battery left. That is when the micropuck has 'wimped out' and gradually dimmed to half brightness, the everled is still clicking along full tilt.
A entirely different technology really. Depends on what you want. Each has it's advanteages, of course.
Doug Owen
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
Doug, what kind of a regulator does the OPALEC Newbeam have. It supposidly does not change in output when you increase the voltage, just runs longer. Does it have a "proper regulator"? I wonder why ARC does not use a proper regulator, instead of being set at about 3+ volt?.
[ QUOTE ]
Bullzeyebill said:
Doug, what kind of a regulator does the OPALEC Newbeam have. It supposidly does not change in output when you increase the voltage, just runs longer. Does it have a "proper regulator"? I wonder why ARC does not use a proper regulator, instead of being set at about 3+ volt?.
[/ QUOTE ]
There are a couple of ways to 'close the loop' and get regulation (which you might think of as 'automatic control'). The most common by far would be voltage regulation. The circuit compensates by whatever means it can to hold the output voltage at a preset value no matter what the current drawn. Some gracefully shut down when the current tries to exceed safe levels, others blow fuses, some just let out magic smoke. The second major class are current regulated, same deal they watch their output current and juggle the voltage to keep constant current on a changing load. They typically don't fail-to-smoke as the maximum available voltage should be within their limits. There is also a fairly rare version that controls the output to maintain constant power, a tougher job since both voltage and current need to be monitored and factored together.
Whatever type is generally available in two flavors, linear and switching. In a linear version, the variable element (usually a transistor) is in series with the battery and load and can be thought of as a 'partially on switch', a variable resistor if you will. Current in any series circuit is 'everywhere the same' so the LED current is also the battery current drawn. If the battery voltage is close to the load voltage these sorts of things can be very efficient. White LEDs driven with 3 NiMH cells for instance can take advantage of the 'flat voltage curve' of NiMH cells as they discharge and easily get to 90% or so efficiency. Switching types depend to one extent or another on 'making AC out of DC', that is rapidly switching current on and off and storing energy (typically in an inductor) for part of the time to be used a small fraction of a second later. This means battery current can be different that load current. These typically either 'step up' or 'step down' in voltage (a few can actually go both ways) Typical efficiencies at the relatively low power levels we're dealing with are somewhat lower, high seventies into the eighties, but usually have wider voltage ranges at which they have good efficiency. Some of these are only 50% or so efficient at the levels and in the ways we use them.
"Proper regulators" is my somewhat whimsical term (you probably won't find it in the text books.....yet), as what's right for any use depends on the use. For sure it's easier to use voltage regulation in most cases (even easier to run 'open loop' like the micropuck). The problem with LEDs is they are current devices. They can and do draw different currents at any given voltage. Even the same part will change with temperature and contact resistances. Unfortunately, the current goes up with heat. This makes it brighter, which partially makes up for the lower light output (for the same current) caused by the heat, but it also brings yet more heat......
As in most of life, it's a compromise. I suspect the use of one type over the other is based on the usual sound engineering, experience, prejudice or 'what's available'.
I've never seen the Newbeam, but based on what you've told me it's a closed loop (it regulates), switching (battery current goes down with higher voltage) system. If you have a light meter and a freezer I submit you can determine if it's voltage or current regulated by measuring the light level 'frozen' and hot. If it's brighter hot (drawing more battery current), it must be voltage regulated (higher current in the LED). If it's dimmer hot (battery current down), my money's on current regulated (assumes the current's the same, but light output is down from heat). You'll need to pull the battery and not freeze it so it's low temperature performance doesn't foul things up. The difference is probably small, but consistent.
Doug Owen
Bullzeyebill said:
Doug, what kind of a regulator does the OPALEC Newbeam have. It supposidly does not change in output when you increase the voltage, just runs longer. Does it have a "proper regulator"? I wonder why ARC does not use a proper regulator, instead of being set at about 3+ volt?.
[/ QUOTE ]
There are a couple of ways to 'close the loop' and get regulation (which you might think of as 'automatic control'). The most common by far would be voltage regulation. The circuit compensates by whatever means it can to hold the output voltage at a preset value no matter what the current drawn. Some gracefully shut down when the current tries to exceed safe levels, others blow fuses, some just let out magic smoke. The second major class are current regulated, same deal they watch their output current and juggle the voltage to keep constant current on a changing load. They typically don't fail-to-smoke as the maximum available voltage should be within their limits. There is also a fairly rare version that controls the output to maintain constant power, a tougher job since both voltage and current need to be monitored and factored together.
Whatever type is generally available in two flavors, linear and switching. In a linear version, the variable element (usually a transistor) is in series with the battery and load and can be thought of as a 'partially on switch', a variable resistor if you will. Current in any series circuit is 'everywhere the same' so the LED current is also the battery current drawn. If the battery voltage is close to the load voltage these sorts of things can be very efficient. White LEDs driven with 3 NiMH cells for instance can take advantage of the 'flat voltage curve' of NiMH cells as they discharge and easily get to 90% or so efficiency. Switching types depend to one extent or another on 'making AC out of DC', that is rapidly switching current on and off and storing energy (typically in an inductor) for part of the time to be used a small fraction of a second later. This means battery current can be different that load current. These typically either 'step up' or 'step down' in voltage (a few can actually go both ways) Typical efficiencies at the relatively low power levels we're dealing with are somewhat lower, high seventies into the eighties, but usually have wider voltage ranges at which they have good efficiency. Some of these are only 50% or so efficient at the levels and in the ways we use them.
"Proper regulators" is my somewhat whimsical term (you probably won't find it in the text books.....yet), as what's right for any use depends on the use. For sure it's easier to use voltage regulation in most cases (even easier to run 'open loop' like the micropuck). The problem with LEDs is they are current devices. They can and do draw different currents at any given voltage. Even the same part will change with temperature and contact resistances. Unfortunately, the current goes up with heat. This makes it brighter, which partially makes up for the lower light output (for the same current) caused by the heat, but it also brings yet more heat......
As in most of life, it's a compromise. I suspect the use of one type over the other is based on the usual sound engineering, experience, prejudice or 'what's available'.
I've never seen the Newbeam, but based on what you've told me it's a closed loop (it regulates), switching (battery current goes down with higher voltage) system. If you have a light meter and a freezer I submit you can determine if it's voltage or current regulated by measuring the light level 'frozen' and hot. If it's brighter hot (drawing more battery current), it must be voltage regulated (higher current in the LED). If it's dimmer hot (battery current down), my money's on current regulated (assumes the current's the same, but light output is down from heat). You'll need to pull the battery and not freeze it so it's low temperature performance doesn't foul things up. The difference is probably small, but consistent.
Doug Owen
