Any way to run a Malkoff drop in at two levels?

I am after a powerful compact floodlight and I am seriously considering an 6P with a drop in from Malkoff but I am concerned that they are only one level.

Is there any way to run a Malkoff drop in at more than one level?

You can but tail caps that will allow this.Not sure who sells them though.

I didn't know that Malkoff had a drop-in for the SureFire M6. The M6 uses 6x123A, or about 15V. The Malkoff M60 goes up to only 9V. Plus, I don't think that the M60 will fit properly in an M6 head.

He may be talking about the Pelican M6.

Sorry, I meant a 6P!

Justin Case said:

The M6 uses 6x123A, or about 15V. The Malkoff M60 goes up to only 9V.

Click to expand...

The stock M6, with 6x123A is 9V.

There are a number of two-or-more-stage tail cap options for the 6P.

Check the Sandwich Shoppe for the Mc2 modification for Surefire switches.

Check LightHound for a few different options.

IMO, the aftermarket tailcaps will reduce reliability.

Sure, lack of dual mode is a serious deficiency in SF or clones but it's bulletproof. I never had a SF fail due to tailcap or internal driver, have seen that plenty of times in "digital" lites.

The McC2S from the Sandwich shoppe is great.

60 ohm resistance gives you a nice useful low on 2 cr123s with a M60.

This is a mechanical switch and is pretty bulletproof. The low is resistored so it isn't as efficient as a regulated low level, but you still get long runtimes and avoid blinding yourself.

The switch works like on the L1/L2/A2 from Surefire: Press a bit for low, press further for high. If you do this fast you don't even see the low level.

For constant on twist a bit for low, twist further for high.

Long thread about it:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/83844

I have an McC2s with a 30ohm resistor in my 6P w/ malkoff M60, and it works great. I'd guess 40-50 lumens on low, and all 200+ on high. Takes a little work to install, about an hour or so if you take your time and be careful.

I do worry about it being a bit less reliable, not because of the switch, more because i did it myself, not surefire. But i always have backup lights, and it's just a fun light for me anyways. Make sure you order the 123 contact spring from the shoppe with it, the stock spring is a pain to get to fit. And while you're at it, order some extra PCB's with different ohm resistors, they're only a couple bucks and you can easily switch your low modes.

NoFair said:

The McE2S from the Sandwich shoppe is great.

60 ohm resistance gives you a nice useful low on 2 cr123s with a M60.

This is a mechanical switch and is pretty bulletproof. The low is resistored so it isn't as efficient as a regulated low level, but you still get long runtimes and avoid blinding yourself.

The switch works like on the L1/L2/A2 from Surefire: Press a bit for low, press further for high. If you do this fast you don't even see the low level.

For constant on twist a bit for low, twist further for high.

Long thread about it:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/83844

Click to expand...

They need to sell a plug-and-play tailcap, so you don't have to mess with yours.

More importantly, it only works with clickies, not Z41 twisties. I don't use clickies, the SF clickie is not all that reliable.

etc said:

They need to sell a plug-and-play tailcap, so you don't have to mess with yours.

More importantly, it only works with clickies, not Z41 twisties. I don't use clickies, the SF clickie is not all that reliable.

Click to expand...

It works with the standard twisty not the clickie!

The messing involves pulling out the part inside the stock switch and putting the new one in.. It takes about 1 minute..

Reversing the operation takes about a minute if you want to change back

Sverre

etc said:

More importantly, it only works with clickies, not Z41 twisties. I don't use clickies, the SF clickie is not all that reliable.

Click to expand...

The McC2S only works with the Z41.

btw, the AW soft start switch doesn't have momentary, but can be used with the M60 with multiple cells, and will give you three levels-30, 60, 100%, plus a "hidden" flashing mode(hold the button down 1.5 seconds while off). There are two versions, one replaces the switch section in the top of the Z58/9, while the other goes in a gutted Z41 like the McC2S.

donn_ said:

The stock M6, with 6x123A is 9V.

There are a number of two-or-more-stage tail cap options for the 6P.

Check the Sandwich Shoppe for the Mc2 modification for Surefire switches.

Check LightHound for a few different options.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the correction, I forgot that the SF M6 batteries are in 3S2P.

Lighthound has a variable output tailcap made by UNIQ. It should work on a 6P and the Malkoff.

Be aware that the UNIQ tailcap has been reported on CPF to draw power even when the light is off. IIRC, the draw is such that your (R)CR123A cells might get drained pretty quickly. Also, you need to check to make sure that when the tailcap is "off", the LED drop-in of interest actually turns off. Some of these electronic tailcaps don't work properly with certain drop-ins and you get a "moonglow" mode when the light should be completely off.

etc said:

IMO, the aftermarket tailcaps will reduce reliability.

Click to expand...

Any specific experience with this?

NoFair said:

The McE2S from the Sandwich shoppe is great.

60 ohm resistance gives you a nice useful low on 2 cr123s with a M60.

This is a mechanical switch and is pretty bulletproof. The low is resistored so it isn't as efficient as a regulated low level, but you still get long runtimes and avoid blinding yourself.

Click to expand...

Gene says to expect 15-20 lumens with the 60 ohm resistor.

etc said:

I don't use clickies, the SF clickie is not all that reliable.

Click to expand...

How do you know this? Have you ever had a SF clickie fail? SF's updated clickie has had a pretty good reliability record on CPF.

etc said:

I never had a SF fail due to tailcap or internal driver

Click to expand...

Ah, ok. So you previously say that they are unreliable, yet you have never had a SF failure of any kind.:duh2:

Justin Case said:

Be aware that the UNIQ tailcap has been reported on CPF to draw power even when the light is off. IIRC, the draw is such that your (R)CR123A cells might get drained pretty quickly. Also, you need to check to make sure that when the tailcap is "off", the LED drop-in of interest actually turns off. Some of these electronic tailcaps don't work properly with certain drop-ins and you get a "moonglow" mode when the light should be completely off.

Click to expand...

I have the UNIQ tailcap switch setup and have not noticed any appreciable drop in voltage using it. When storing it your can unscrew it a 1/10 of an inch or so and it is locked out. Not to be a big concern. AW's soft start 3 level switch works well above 6 volts. I have that setup too. Again, simple to lock it out also. I have noticed some issues with an older Malkoff M60 (actually called a Malkoff P60), using the UNIQ, with it not turning off completely, a glow, like you mentioned. The so called draw from these PWM type switches can be in the 1/1,000.000 of a volt range, maybe more.

Bill

To those who are a little scared of pulling apart the SF Z41 twisty. Its REALLY easy, you just follow the instructions in the thread posted earlier, use needle nose pliers and give the switch gutts a slight pull and the whole thing pops out easily. Its held in place by a friction pin pressed into soft plastic, and can be put back together in 2-3 minutes.

Bullzeyebill said:

I have the UNIQ tailcap switch setup and have not noticed any appreciable drop in voltage using it. When storing it your can unscrew it a 1/10 of an inch or so and it is locked out. Not to be a big concern. AW's soft start 3 level switch works well above 6 volts. I have that setup too. Again, simple to lock it out also. I have noticed some issues with an older Malkoff M60 (actually called a Malkoff P60), using the UNIQ, with it not turning off completely, a glow, like you mentioned. The so called draw from these PWM type switches can be in the 1/1,000.000 of a volt range, maybe more.

Bill

Click to expand...

Yes, however others have reported higher battery drain rates. I don't have one, so I can't give first-hand measurements. I do have an OpticsHQ multifunction tailcap and it draws power when off and my 2x16340s probably last a month or so, if totally idle. Less if I actually also use the light.

Yes, you can back out the tailcap. Your light is no longer instantly operable.

My 6PL with M60L and McC2s (30 ohm), shows low to be about one third of brightness, according to my digital camera readings (uncalibrated lux). Really love this setup, and the mod took two minutes to perform.