Triple P7 / Ledil Reflectors w/ Snap-on Diffuser

Hi Mick,

Looking very nice! :twothumbs

Hi Mick, how much can you charge for a complet kit without the Leds and driver???

This is just a hobby for me. I have no plans to produce these in any quantity. I may do a small run of complete lights if there are people interested. I may be willing to release the drawings for non commercial use. I only have a small manual lathe / mill and am not a experienced machinist so the parts take me forever to make.

Touch Switch mounted in rear cover of caving headlight. This is a QT310 potted in a black delrin housing. No moving parts. Absolutely waterproof.
This will control the excellent hipFlex driver from TaskLED.

You sneaky little devil the touch switch is a mighty fine idea. Was thinking about using a magnetic switch on mine.. but you've got a better idea.

sweet

Wow -haven't heard of those type switches before.
What are their drawbacks ,if any?

I'll have to do a search on these,but can you tell us what the 3 wires hook up to?

Nice solid build there.

Cheers
Dom

The connections are power (~3-5 vdc), ground (common), and signal (open collector, drain). You need to use the power from the driver, then the touch switch acts like a normally open push button.
There are downsides; the IC is obsolete and the replacement is 1/2 size and very difficult to build without a circuit board with solder mask. I am trying to find a better solution.
Also with a touch switch there is no tactical feedback and you don't have to even touch it to activate it. You need to place it in a recess or place where you won't brush against it unintentionally.

Prototype circuit board before trimming and potting. The copper squares on the board are .042 inch (~1mm) with .008 inch (.2mm) gaps. The copper touch pad is 1/2 inch (12.7mm).

Nice machine work... that must have taken some time!

All I can Say is wow!! I want one

The switch sound great for waterproof and non-mechanical security.

Does it have to always draw power like if
you used a normal MOM switch?Did you make that circuit board?

How does it touch sense thru the plastic onto the copper?

I read a bit of the specs but is a little beyond me


What is it's total weight?
I'm sure you'd have some buyers out there, since the guy making the Serv-Light has closed shop (i think).

You have a great driver and switch in a neat package.

Cheers
Dom

The switch and driver will draw a small amount of power anytime the battery is connected.
The sensor uses the copper pad in an oscillator circuit. Your finger changes the frequency when it is near or touching the plastic housing. The IC looks for a change in frequency to determine a touch. It will work through plastic but not metal. There are inductive sensors that will sense through some metals.
I made the circuit with much pain for these 66 year old eyes.
The weight includes the diffuser and there is still some machining to be done so it may be a bit lighter.

Would it be possible to release the drawings?

I would love to use this as my bike light.

I will discuss releasing the drawings in private. You can find my email by clicking my name. Just use a descriptive note in the subject line so I won't think it is spam.

I did some heating test on my 3xSSC P7 bike light
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/228493
and foud out that it is a quite a chalange,... still looking to test in real life to see results,...

Cheers,
Iztok

Yes Iztok, There is no way a triple P7 will run over 2 amps in a small housing. The hipFlex driver has a programmable thermal cut-back that I am relying on to prevent meltdown.

Your light looks very nice!

Bump!

A couple more pictures:

From Cavertim: Light with 18 degree reflectors, 2.4 amps.

It is not for sale yet???