I just recently started a new bouncer job and need a flashlight. I think i have narrowed it down to these two choices. The Fenix E20 https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=498 or the surefire G2- Nitrolon http://www.surefire.com/G2-Nitrolon . Which would you choose?
Which would you chose?
- Thread starter chemman14
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Sgt. LED
Flashaholic
If you only want to buy 1 item then get the Fenix.
If you are ok with buying a Malkoff M60L and a G2 then it would be a very durable combo that you can count on.
As far as lumens per dollar the fenix is a great deal but I personally like the Surefire and Malkoff LED combo better.
You'll probably do just fine with Fenix. The runtime of the stock incan G2 is too short for me.
Happy bouncing! :thumbsup:
If you are ok with buying a Malkoff M60L and a G2 then it would be a very durable combo that you can count on.
As far as lumens per dollar the fenix is a great deal but I personally like the Surefire and Malkoff LED combo better.
You'll probably do just fine with Fenix. The runtime of the stock incan G2 is too short for me.
Happy bouncing! :thumbsup:
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hmm just looking for one light I also saw this one on that site
https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=407
is it worth the extra few bucks for that light?
As a former doorman myself, I would take the Surefire. You will want an LED version for the longer run time and no filament to break. Try the http://www.surefire.com/G2-Led . My personal light was a 6P with a BOG Q5 drop in. Depending on the bar you may want an alluminum body that wont be scratched as easily and possibly could double as a kubaton. Unfortunately bars are becoming rougher so you will want something able to take alot of abuse but small enough that someone wont claim you used your light as a weapon.
Good luck with the doorman position, be safe and always have your back to the wall. If you want any info about being a doorman feel free to pm me and Ill help you out were ever I can.
Good luck with the doorman position, be safe and always have your back to the wall. If you want any info about being a doorman feel free to pm me and Ill help you out were ever I can.
Thank you for the advice, the fenix is an LCD model. That g2-led is kinda out of my price range looking to spend ~40As a former doorman myself, I would take the Surefire. You will want an LED version for the longer run time and no filament to break. Try the http://www.surefire.com/G2-Led . My personal light was a 6P with a BOG Q5 drop in. Depending on the bar you may want an alluminum body that wont be scratched as easily and possibly could double as a kubaton. Unfortunately bars are becoming rougher so you will want something able to take alot of abuse but small enough that someone wont claim you used your light as a weapon.
Good luck with the doorman position, be safe and always have your back to the wall. If you want any info about being a doorman feel free to pm me and Ill help you out were ever I can.
bigmul
Newly Enlightened
Different types of batteries there too - easy to find AA's or CR123's?
NonSenCe
Flashlight Enthusiast
whats the climate you are in? are you stuck in snowstorms while working at the door? then a plastic body light would be best.
but of those 2 i still would vote for e20.
why 2AA light? so you can use it as kubaton /fistload?
looking for longer runtime than 1aa?
as modern 1aa lights will suprise you with their brightness.
might not run that long but more convinient size to carry in your pocket.
do you need that Zoom feature?
and you want simple on/off light without other lightoutput modes?
if zoom is not important,
simple 2 mode light option would also be eagletac p100a2
https://www.eagletac-store.com/product_info.php?products_id=716
i have no experience with it but many here say its good. and pricing is sill ok at 43$
if you are not carrying it in your pocket.. but mostly keeping it at a desk or sorts but do work in freezing doorway (hated that myself) fenix tk20 might be an option too.. still 2aa light but lot heavyer and bigger than others above, but has rubber handle and warmer led tint.
and dont forget you do get 8% off the price at 4sevens.com by using cpf discount code. (fenix store is basically same firm)
the same discount also works at eagletacstore too i believe?
but of those 2 i still would vote for e20.
why 2AA light? so you can use it as kubaton /fistload?
looking for longer runtime than 1aa?
as modern 1aa lights will suprise you with their brightness.
might not run that long but more convinient size to carry in your pocket.
do you need that Zoom feature?
and you want simple on/off light without other lightoutput modes?
if zoom is not important,
simple 2 mode light option would also be eagletac p100a2
https://www.eagletac-store.com/product_info.php?products_id=716
i have no experience with it but many here say its good. and pricing is sill ok at 43$
if you are not carrying it in your pocket.. but mostly keeping it at a desk or sorts but do work in freezing doorway (hated that myself) fenix tk20 might be an option too.. still 2aa light but lot heavyer and bigger than others above, but has rubber handle and warmer led tint.
and dont forget you do get 8% off the price at 4sevens.com by using cpf discount code. (fenix store is basically same firm)
the same discount also works at eagletacstore too i believe?
GreyShark
Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2008
- Messages
- 359
I have found that 80 lumens is enough to completely hide you behind a wall of light if shined in an adversary's face at close range. It's good enough to really make the other guy look like a fool when he swings at nothing but air while you can strike him at will. You don't have to stand right behind the light... More lumens will increase that distance and work better in brighter conditions.
If you're going to want to use your light as a potential impact device, I would, I'd recommend looking at a 6P or 9P. The body is wide enough to fill the hand, it's smooth and round so it feels good and won't potentially give you cuts or blisters in training or use, there's a lot of metal in the light body for strength, the bezel is wide enough to do a decent job of keeping your hand from sliding and there's a wide open upgrade path. The stock incandescent P60 lamp is perfectly workable but when the paychecks start rolling in you'll probably want to make a few upgrades and these lights can be easily customized to your requirements. I prefer aluminum bodies but I would consider the G2 a viable alternative to the 6P.
I don't own an E20 but I do have another one of Fenix's 2x AA models. It's a good light but I find it a little skinny to my taste for use as an impact device. YMMV.
If you're going to want to use your light as a potential impact device, I would, I'd recommend looking at a 6P or 9P. The body is wide enough to fill the hand, it's smooth and round so it feels good and won't potentially give you cuts or blisters in training or use, there's a lot of metal in the light body for strength, the bezel is wide enough to do a decent job of keeping your hand from sliding and there's a wide open upgrade path. The stock incandescent P60 lamp is perfectly workable but when the paychecks start rolling in you'll probably want to make a few upgrades and these lights can be easily customized to your requirements. I prefer aluminum bodies but I would consider the G2 a viable alternative to the 6P.
I don't own an E20 but I do have another one of Fenix's 2x AA models. It's a good light but I find it a little skinny to my taste for use as an impact device. YMMV.
bloke-gear.com
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2009
- Messages
- 20
I think something with an aggressive bezel would be perfect for a bouncer. I agree the Malkoff drop-in would be great, but in your case, the Surefire P60L may already be adequate. I would personally recommend the 6PDL. Or you could pay a little more and get the E2DL.
HKJ
Flashaholic
I would look at the TK20, L2T and E20 in that sequence, not the L2D/LD20 as they have reverse switch.
The Surefire light needs special batteries, that might be a bit expensive (depending on how much you use the light), but it has a very good switch for momentary operation, but requires two hand (or some dexterity) to select constant on.
The Surefire light needs special batteries, that might be a bit expensive (depending on how much you use the light), but it has a very good switch for momentary operation, but requires two hand (or some dexterity) to select constant on.
GreyShark
Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2008
- Messages
- 359
My hesitation with a strike bezel is that they're inclined to produce more blood. These days blood can be filled with all kinds of inconvenient things like HIV or hepatitis. I feel a more useful strike bezel would be one designed with a thick, rounded rim to still deliver a strongly focussed impact but with less likelihood of producing blood. Gore and combat effectiveness aren't necessarily the same thing.
StandardBattery
Flashlight Enthusiast
Unless you're going to carry small light for ID checks and other stuff I think you need at least 2 levels. I'd recommend, E1B, E2DL, L2D/LD20. If you're paying for batteries AA light is probably a good idea. Can't think of the perfect light right now.
StarHalo
Flashaholic
I would want something with a very reinforced body and bezel/tailcap, with only two modes in the traditional tactical configuration, the ability to choose my own bezel type, and multiple battery options including rechargeable.
Which describes the JetBeam Military to a tee; a 225 lumen max with a second user-settable mode, 18650 or 123 or RCR123 batteries, replaceable stainless steel bezels at each end, and a large and loyal following by professionals. See it here: http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/jemi.html
Which describes the JetBeam Military to a tee; a 225 lumen max with a second user-settable mode, 18650 or 123 or RCR123 batteries, replaceable stainless steel bezels at each end, and a large and loyal following by professionals. See it here: http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/jemi.html
Bruce B
Enlightened
I'd go for either an E1b or and E2DL.
6PDL if you want to be able to upgrade the Lamp Assembly (LA).
6PDL if you want to be able to upgrade the Lamp Assembly (LA).
StandardBattery
Flashlight Enthusiast
I agree JetBeam III-M sounds pretty good. Charge it an carry a spare cell. More than enough runtime.
Wattnot
Enlightened
That E20 could work but it appears to be a single mode light.
Picturing your use for this light, if it were me, I'd want the following features:
*Comfortable to hold for extended periods.
*The AA nimh seems like a good choice because you'll go through a lot of batteries with daily, extended use and I don't believe there is any cheaper way to go.
*Multi level with LOW first. Think about it . . . checking IDs will be the number one use and you don't want high for that. But you do want high for challenging the impatient rowdy guys 10 feet back in the line.
*Belt clip. The line won't be there all night (and a lanyard will make the rowdy guys laugh at you) and I'm sure you have indoor duties as well. You need a place for quick access. A belt clip makes sense.
The Surefire L1/A2 etc. type UI would be optimal for this (except that puts you back in CR123 land). You get low first or immediate high if you just mash it. Keep in mind that unintentional mode switching or cycling through modes would be very annonying in this scenario and might give a bad name to flashaholics everywhere!!
Another UI that would work would be the EagleTac with the twist head. You can use it on low all of the time, then twist for high when you need it. It's a forward click so you can have it momentary, or click for locking it on. The only downside is two hands for switching to high.
A bouncer is one of those applications where a strobe feature might someday be useful (maybe, I don't know, I'm just thinking about all of the different scenarios) but it will be tough to find one light to do everything I suggested above, AND have a strobe too.
Let us know what you decide.
Picturing your use for this light, if it were me, I'd want the following features:
*Comfortable to hold for extended periods.
*The AA nimh seems like a good choice because you'll go through a lot of batteries with daily, extended use and I don't believe there is any cheaper way to go.
*Multi level with LOW first. Think about it . . . checking IDs will be the number one use and you don't want high for that. But you do want high for challenging the impatient rowdy guys 10 feet back in the line.
*Belt clip. The line won't be there all night (and a lanyard will make the rowdy guys laugh at you) and I'm sure you have indoor duties as well. You need a place for quick access. A belt clip makes sense.
The Surefire L1/A2 etc. type UI would be optimal for this (except that puts you back in CR123 land). You get low first or immediate high if you just mash it. Keep in mind that unintentional mode switching or cycling through modes would be very annonying in this scenario and might give a bad name to flashaholics everywhere!!
Another UI that would work would be the EagleTac with the twist head. You can use it on low all of the time, then twist for high when you need it. It's a forward click so you can have it momentary, or click for locking it on. The only downside is two hands for switching to high.A bouncer is one of those applications where a strobe feature might someday be useful (maybe, I don't know, I'm just thinking about all of the different scenarios) but it will be tough to find one light to do everything I suggested above, AND have a strobe too.
Let us know what you decide.
AKDoug
Newly Enlightened
Get an all metal flashlight. If you are using this for a job I would definitely NOT get one with a strike bezel. A blow to the collar bone or temple from a metal flashlight will do just as much damage as a strike bezel and you are not going to have the legal problems (potential law suit depending on your local laws) of using something designed to inflict maximum damage.
Then see if you can find an instructional video by Rob Pincus about self defense with a flashlight. He is a great instructor and gives good techniques.
Then see if you can find an instructional video by Rob Pincus about self defense with a flashlight. He is a great instructor and gives good techniques.
greenlight
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've worked at a club. I only ever met one staff who carried a SFe1e. The rest aren't interested much in flashlights, and think that their crap lights are the best.
When you are wrestling with someone your flashlight is useless. That is one time you might lose it (the flashlight). I guarantee you will lose it. Keep your flashlight purchases cheap, and buy more than one.
Your light is going to be most useful to signal other staff to come help, not to beat anyone up with. You won't get to keep your job too long if you keep pummeling the customers.
More information is required to provide an accurate recommendation.
I rarely ever need more light than my gerber FIRECRACKER. I try not to be blinding people or making myself the center of attention. Also, you don't want to be carrying a big sausage inside your pocket all night, especially if you aren't going to use it.
When you are wrestling with someone your flashlight is useless. That is one time you might lose it (the flashlight). I guarantee you will lose it. Keep your flashlight purchases cheap, and buy more than one.
Your light is going to be most useful to signal other staff to come help, not to beat anyone up with. You won't get to keep your job too long if you keep pummeling the customers.
More information is required to provide an accurate recommendation.
I rarely ever need more light than my gerber FIRECRACKER. I try not to be blinding people or making myself the center of attention. Also, you don't want to be carrying a big sausage inside your pocket all night, especially if you aren't going to use it.
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Kestrel
Flashaholic
Right at this moment, there are two 6P's in the Marketplace going for $50 ea, and these two include a TOP-quality SureFire holster. If you have interest in using the holster, it's a good buy. You can always drop in a Malkoff LED later. Upgradeable SF's like the 6P are the way to go.:thumbsup:
I agree with GreyShark & AKDoug 100% on not getting a strike bezel. The standard aluminum bezel on the 6P (or the newer G2L's) will provide all the impact that you should ever need. A crennelated strike bezel will only cause you trouble and hassle after-the-fact.
(But please, let's not turn this thread into a plain bezel vs strike bezel thread though, those have been done to death in other threads and will give a nearly 100% chance of getting this thread closed by the moderators - for good reason.:tinfoil
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Chemman14, are those the ONLY lights your willing to use or are you open to suggestions? And if this is a light your going to be using every night for work why not spend a little more? And deffinatley go with a light that uses a rechargeable battery.
I will second a vote for a 6P instead of a G2. And I will also suggest using a 2 level LED. If you can spring for a $100-$110 light My personal favorite so far is the Novatac 120 (T or E theyres all the same if you crack em)
Or the Surefire backup which can be found here at a reasonable price
I will second a vote for a 6P instead of a G2. And I will also suggest using a 2 level LED. If you can spring for a $100-$110 light My personal favorite so far is the Novatac 120 (T or E theyres all the same if you crack em)
Or the Surefire backup which can be found here at a reasonable price
