CNC XPE bike light

ktronik

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Oct 12, 2003
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CNC XPE/G bike light

A few shots of our CNC XPE bike light.

DSCF2712 (Small).JPG


Specs:

630lm out the front

R2 XPE LEDs driven by a blfex driver.

so here is a mock up of how it all goes together, it should be super quick to build, & can be fully pulled apart to swap / upgrade parts if needed. not shown is the bar clamp, its still being made...

DSCF2688 (Small).JPG


Driver goes in (sits on top of a o-ring)

DSCF2692 (Small).JPG


Driver holder goes in

DSCF2693 (Small).JPG


Rear cap, pushes on the driver holder. Rear cap will have a cable gland coming out of it & the bflex onboard warning LED will glow through this.

DSCF2694 (Small).JPG


Rear cover screw on, sealed by 1 o-ring & waterproof grease on sides of rear cap.

DSCF2695 (Small).JPG


LED pcb drop in

DSCF2696 (Small).JPG


Optic, o-ring, glass or lexan lens, o-ring & front bezel

DSCF2698 (Small).JPG


klight.bmp


feeler removed
 
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ktronik

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Testing is going well, thought I would tell you guys of some ideas I have been playing with...

Flight deck Remote switch for light:

The flightdeck wire kit has 4 micro wires on the premade switch... not really solderable & too small to be strong...

good news I have found a switch that will fit really well into the removable blank cover plate (that sits where the flightdeck remote goes) that is all ready on my lever, so on my bike, I will have a nice tactile switch on the STI road lever, on the same string, I will add another on the tops of the bar, just before it plugs into the light...so remote on the tops & @ the lever, both a have a great 'snap' action we need...

K
 

yellow

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OT:
how does the brightness of the cold white compares to the one of the warm white MC-Es?

Do the warm make a nicer light?
 

ktronik

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OT:
how does the brightness of the cold white compares to the one of the warm white MC-Es?

Do the warm make a nicer light?

Hey Yellow, have a look @ the tints on this post, I have mixed 3 different tints to get a better overall colour retention & I must say I do really like it...but you would get less lumen out the front...

EX of MC-E tint/Lm:

Multichip Bin : MCE4WT-A2-0000-000M01 Cool white, 430 min lumens, WH Tint
Multichip Bin : MCE4WT-A2-5C0-K0-0-00001 370 min Lumens Neutral White
Multichip Bin : MCE4WT-A2-6C0-J0-0-00001 Warm white, 320 min lumens, E6

Difference in brightness is 110lm for the warmest & coolest, thats the output of a nightrider minewt just there...everyone is different, some have to have the raw output, but for the OZ bush, lots of browns ect, I do prefer the warmer tints...but on the black road it may not matter much...

I think the key is to have a mix of tints, thus not to loose to much of your raw output, & for my ~1000lm dynamo light a 100lm here or there was no issue...

On the newer XPE triple light, cutter is looking in to getting some custom boards going with one LED that has a warmer tint, for future runs...

Best of both worlds for the bush...here in OZ anyway...

K
 

ktronik

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Sorry for the delay guys, got to get the cutter order out first, you guys are next so 2-3 weeks...

will be worth the wait, we have gone over-board to make it fully dunk proof, glad I did as I went for a swim in a river last night, err on my bike... :eek:

Working on a new dynamo circuit as well, more on that soon, my plan is to have battery & dynamo circuit fully dunk proof as well, so if I choose to go for another swim on a cold & rainy night, I won't short my electronics / battery...thus making it home to tell the tail...

you guy in NZ will get most use of this 'over-building', lots of rivers to cross on the AV MTB ride...

Best

Ktronik
 

ktronik

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Here's a quick pic...this K-light kit is exclusive to Cutter electronics, this was the first run to be done...

Picture 094 (Small).jpg


K
 
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syc

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Jun 10, 2008
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Its ironic that the clamp looks so huge compared to the light itself (which looks great!).

What is the news on the dyno circuit? Were you planning on just putting your basic tuned rectifier circuit in there? For 3 led's, a boost cap, bridge rectifier and smoothing cap is all you need down to something like 5kph, right?
 

ktronik

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Messages
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Its ironic that the clamp looks so huge compared to the light itself (which looks great!).

What is the news on the dyno circuit? Were you planning on just putting your basic tuned rectifier circuit in there? For 3 led's, a boost cap, bridge rectifier and smoothing cap is all you need down to something like 5kph, right?

Yes clamp is 31.8mm dia (ID) so does look larger than the older size...but light is small as well...

I have a new proto dyno version...sorry no pic for now but its along the lines of 'black betty' above, but custom made for the dyno...

more details as they come to hand.

K
 

ktronik

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Kit build order:

Picture 097 (Small).jpg




Solder wires to LEDs, make sure to also solder the series link.
Picture 099 (Small).jpg




Note the 3 holes for the optic posts to sit
Picture 101 (Small).jpg



The optic post clear the MCPCB & need to sit in the post holes of the housing or the front bezel will not do up correctly.
Picture 103 (Small).jpg



Adding thermal paste, push the LED MCPCB into place, you don't need heaps of paste, just enough for a thin layer & not enough for it to slop around in the housing & get on the optic
Picture 104 (Small).jpg



Add the optic, making sure that it is correctly seated into the optic post holes on the housing, this is very important as if it is not seated correctly, the front bezel will not do up fully
Picture 105 (Small).jpg



Add non-lubed o-ring
Picture 106 (Small).jpg



Add Lexan Lens
Picture 107 (Small).jpg



Add lightly lubed o-ring on top of lens, & push the thin lubed o-ring around the outside of the thread, lube bezel thread with thermal paste / grease & screw on, make sure that as you do so the final inside o-ring stays in place
Picture 108 (Small).jpg



You are now ready to move on to the rear section, might pay to test your connections are correct with your meter & the front bezel is correctly fastened
Picture 110 (Small).jpg



Build order of rear section
Picture 111 (Small).jpg



Solder the LED leads to the Bflex board, then insert the pre-wired Bflex driver, driver holder & o-ring into the housing, making sure the lubed o-ring sits in the slot provided
Picture 112 (Small).jpg




Heatshrink 2 layers of 3mm shrink to the driver lead
Picture 113 (Small).jpg



Add Lexan donut attached to the IP68 cable gland, making sure that it sits on top of the o-ring
Picture 114 (Small).jpg



Then screw on rear cap using heatsink paste / grease on thread & thin outer o-ring, as was done on the front
Picture 115 (Small).jpg



Trim the 2 remote wires to length
Picture 116 (Small).jpg




Heatshrink the other length of 3mm to the power lead
Picture 117 (Small).jpg




Before wiring plug, push over the 5mm heatshrink
Picture 118 (Small).jpg



Trim plug
Picture 119 (Small).jpg




Picture 120 (Small).jpg



Wire plug, it does not matter which way around either remote plugs are as they are not polarized
Picture 121 (Small).jpg




Twist plug & slip 5mm shrink over wires
Picture 122 (Small).jpg



Heatshrink 5mm
Picture 123 (Small).jpg



Heatshrink 8mm, long enough for the glue to come out of the ends, as this is 8mm dual wall glued 4:1 shrink
Picture 124 (Small).jpg



Heat shrink to bend
Picture 125 (Small).jpg



Wire Battery lead, remote lead & your ready to rock
Picture 126 (Small).jpg


K



Ktronik
 
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StevelKnievel

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Oct 13, 2007
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This is a fantastic build! You've put together a really well thought out package! Nice work.
 

ktronik

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Oct 12, 2003
Messages
779
Location
Australia
Wow.
You've done your homework.

Optics easily swappable, I like that.

:hitit:

Thank you, :) everything is swappable & future proof.

I must say the engineer has done a bang up job on the QC of the housing...everything butts up perfectly & threads are slickly smooth, so I am very happy all around :thumbsup:

K
 

ktronik

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Oct 12, 2003
Messages
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Location
Australia
This is a fantastic build! You've put together a really well thought out package! Nice work.

Thanks mate!! with all you guys making the super bright lights, I though I would stick to the medium bright LED bike lights...

With 2 on the bar, one wide & one narrow, then one on the helmet, it should be more than enough light for now...

K
 
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