Wolfeyes p7 compared to other p7 lights

Hello, im thinking of upgrading my old wolfeyes sniper with the new p7 head but after reading that wolfeyes states 580 lumen while alot other p7 lights are 900 lumen im confused. i see alot of really really cheap p7 lights stating 900lumen and also the eagletac 900 lumen. Is the wolfeyes p7 light really alot weaker then all the others or whats the deal?

Wolfeye is stating a much more truthful lumen rating then the other lights. Those cheaper lights top out at 500 lumen max. They are just stating the max possible lumen from the Seoul spreadsheet.

The Wolf Eyes 580 lumen figure is out the front "torch" lumens. Whereas other lumen claims are theoretical maximum lumens produced at the emitter. You can find a bunch of threads about such deceptive marketing claims here on CPF.
There are a couple newer lights which will be up in the 700 lumen range compared to the Wolf Eyes 500+ though so it really does depend on what you're comparing it to. Most any cheap "bargain" light will claim all sorts of claims that usually don't hold true.

The Wolf Eyes P7 Sniper is a decent little light so long as you don't mind a bit of PWM and a multiclick interface for switching modes.

Thanks alot for the answers that helped me alot.

WE drives P7 @2,1A which means it produces 580 emitter lumens and ~500 torch lumens.
Cheap single 18650 lights are not regulated so current (and brightness) depends on Vf and cell internal resistance, and varies from 1,5 to 4A with fresh cell (drops quickly because of no regulation).

I have a owned a couple P7 lights and Malkoff P7 and MC-E drop-ins. They are all bright. I just got a Maglight P7 built by Nailbender and it is so much brighter then my smaller P7 lights.

If you want a small Wolfeyes sniper light that makes 400 to 500 lumens out the front then stick with what you have or get a Malkoff MC-E drop-in; which was what I did. Small 6P light with plenty of power.

If you really want 700 to 900 lumens you have to go bigger. I like the Legion II and my 2D Maglight P7 running 3 C NiMH. A P7 making 700 plus lumes will heat up and require good heatsinking. My P60 P7/MC-E drop-ins did pull 2.8~4.5amps, but they are no where near as bright as my big Maglight 2D P7 at 2.8amps. I carry the Surefire 6P P7 daily, but the Maglight 2D P7 not so much. They all have their purpose, but if you want more IMHO you might have to go bigger.

One more thing to consider is how long the light will make the 500 or 700 lumens. My P60 P7 (or single 18650) lights can only hold the 2.8amps for short periods and then drop. My P7 Maglight I checked the amp draw after 2 hours it was 2.8amps. Similarly; the Leggion II has a run time graph were the lumen output stays the same for 2 hours.

bigchelis

Like others above already said, WE is driving it at just over 2 amps when the theoretical maximum is 2.8A. They're getting their 580 lumens in a SMALL package from ONE 18650 or two CR123s.

All of these newer MC-E and P7 900 lumen monsters are using more (or larger) batteries giving you more voltage, or more available current, or both.

Considering the much smaller size, the Sniper P7 is still a mainstream light. Take a look at my review here.

ok that made it all clearer for me. now im down to what type of head is better for my old sniper should i buy the one with a SSC P7 LED Emitter or the one with a Cree MC-E LED Emitter. The last one is the most expensive, dont know the difference.

one2tim said:

ok that made it all clearer for me. now im down to what type of head is better for my old sniper should i buy the one with a SSC P7 LED Emitter or the one with a Cree MC-E LED Emitter. The last one is the most expensive, dont know the difference.

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If the bezel size is the same I keep hearing that the MC-E has a tighter spot and more throw vs. the P7. I have both in a P60 design and I can't tell the difference.