Pelican 7060 tail-cap modification

I have had a Pelican 7060 for about a year now. I like the brightness but I'm unimpressed with the design. Especially the tail-cap switch. It is not recessed in any useful way and it is waaaay too touchy. I don't use the tail-cap switch myself because I don't like holding the light by the tail-cap when shooting (and I can't figure out any other reason to use it). If there is some way to disable the switch that would be great. Even better would be a way to replace the switch with a solid tail-cap.

Also, I'm a Police Officer so my point of view is going to be based on using the light in the field under sometimes less-than-ideal conditions.

I know that the LAPD wanted a plastic light because they didn't want Officers hitting people with metal. As such, the light is not intended to be used as a back-up impact weapon. I get that. However, any Officer who works at night knows that sometimes you get into fights when you are holding onto your light. It's my opinion that if you have something in your hand during a fight it might as well be something useful. The light has no weight to it, (which is great for normal carry but not good for whacking people) but if it at least had a better tail-cap then I could use that as an impact point during a struggle.

Does anyone know of a way to replace the tail-cap, or modify it so that the switch is more recessed? Heck, I'd be OK with simply disabling the tail-cap switch so it wouldn't turn on every time I sit down in the car.

I have owned a 7060 for over a year and have never heard of a modified tall switch.The reason is that this light appears to have an unique feature:the rechargeable battery pack also acts as a circuit.The power flows from the battery-through the side switch-and than over the outside of the battery to the rear switch-and than through the battery to the side switch again.Disruption at any point causes the light to stop working.So short answer is no-you can't disable the rear switch.

I am curious-does your department allow you to carry a metal light like a Magcharger-or are they one of those departments that make you carry a polymer light because they fear lawsuits?

:welcome:

I share your opinion about the tailcap switch. Pelican told LAPD that it wasn't a good idea, but LAPD insisted that it be made this way. I was hoping by now enough users would have voiced their opinions and this flaw would have been corrected, but to date it hasn't happened. I suppose you could send Pelican an email and see if they have any suggestions to modify the switch. Short of that I don't know what can be done. The newer 8060 doesn't have a tailcap switch and I checked to see if that might fit on the 7060, but unfortunately it doesn't.

I carried the 7060 on my left rear just behind my radio and rarely would it go off accidently while sitting in a crown vic. The real problem for me was accidental activations while putting it back in the holster. If I didn't get it centered the switch would touch the top sides of the holster and send a quick flash into the sky or to whatever roof I was standing under. I recently sold this light and I'm still hunting for a replacement. A shame really, the 7060 is close be being the best duty light available. If only LAPD hadn't insisted on the raised tailcap switch.

I am a police officer as well and have looking for a new tailcap too. I have had several instances where the light turns on when sitting in the car. We have been driving an unmarked intrepid lately and the lumbar activates the light all the time. I keep it on the left rear of my belt also. There has to be a fix out there somewhere!!!!!!

mpkav said:

I am a police officer as well and have looking for a new tailcap too. I have had several instances where the light turns on when sitting in the car. We have been driving an unmarked intrepid lately and the lumbar activates the light all the time. I keep it on the left rear of my belt also. There has to be a fix out there somewhere!!!!!!

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Take it off your belt? The 7060 is too big for belt carry. When I carry mine, it's in my uniform pants "sap" pocket. When I'm in the car, it's on the seat between the seat cushion and seat back; essentially i sit on the light...

dano said:

Take it off your belt? The 7060 is too big for belt carry. When I carry mine, it's in my uniform pants "sap" pocket. When I'm in the car, it's on the seat between the seat cushion and seat back; essentially i sit on the light...

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+1

I carry it in my sap pocket and haven't had any accidental discharges of light.

I dont think its too big for belt carry, when I carry it, mine sits in one of the Nite-Eze expandable holster on my right hip behinf the SF V70 holster. It does however, as stated above, constantly trigger the rear button when you put it back in

Might be worth asking Pelican if they are considering a different tailcap?

Most of my shift is spent on foot (actually filling in paperwork but thats another story ) so dont imagine pocekt carry would be comfortable but our uniform trousers have not had truncheon pockets for years since we changed the batons

I figured out how to by-pass the rear switch.But it's 4'o clock in the morning and I'm pissy eyed drunk from drinking beer and watching hockey(this is Canada) Go Blackhawks!!!(not Canadian-but love their fans) Tomorrow when I sober up I will explain how.:drunk:

dano said:

Take it off your belt? The 7060 is too big for belt carry. When I carry mine, it's in my uniform pants "sap" pocket. When I'm in the car, it's on the seat between the seat cushion and seat back; essentially i sit on the light...

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I stopped wearing pants with sap pockets years ago. Back in the 80's when everyone carried the very long Streamlight SL-20 it made sense. Now that we have better and smaller lights it's just one less thing to grab on a traffic stop. Like the hat and straight baton, equipment that needs to be grabbed each time ties up hands and attention and might not be the best solution.

IMO the 7060 is good for belt carry, but I'm 6'4" and that maybe a factor. If it was any longer I think it might be a problem for me. I actually prefer the length for under-the-arm use which was a bit of a problem when I carried the shorter Stinger flashlight.

I'm now interested in what Andreas Ferrari has come up with. Maybe I'll buy another 7060 if it works.

ANDREAS FERRARI said:

I figured out how to by-pass the rear switch.But it's 4'o clock in the morning and I'm pissy eyed drunk from drinking beer and watching hockey(this is Canada) Go Blackhawks!!!(not Canadian-but love their fans) Tomorrow when I sober up I will explain how.:drunk:

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Ferarri, SOBER UP!!!!! We are waiting!!!!

To begin with I can't post pictures(old camera,no skills,don't know how to photo host,etc.) so hopefully I can explain this so you will understand.

1) Remove tail cap.Look inside and you will see 2 small holes on either side of the spring.You need to insert a pair of snap rink pliers into the holes(if you don't know what snap ring pliers are or don't have a pair take the tail cap to your local tool store and ask for a pair.There are many types(configurations) so make sure you get a pair that fit).With pliers inserted turn COUNTER-clockwise-the internal portion will turn.Keep turning until it comes out.

2) When you remove the insert you will see a wide button with a spring under it.Turn the button COUNTER-clockwise.The button and the spring will come out.

3)You will see a narrow button,this is what turns the light on/off.Cut this off with a sturdy pair of wire cutters as close to the base as you can.If you have a Dremmel tool you can grind down whatever is left over.There is no going back when you are finished,the rear switch will never work again.

4) Reassemble.

Hopefully I have explained this so you can understand.Good luck.Let me know how it turns out.

BTW,if you don't have the tools to do this than you can go and see the mechanics that maintain your department's fleet.They will have these tools.

Thanks AF for the description. Even without pictures I can visualize the process. Makes me wonder if the narrow button was simply filed or sanded down a little at a time one might find a way of making the switch less sensitive without completely disabling it. Just an idea for those that still like having a tailcap switch, but just not so sensitive.

LowBat said:

Thanks AF for the description. Even without pictures I can visualize the process. Makes me wonder if the narrow button was simply filed or sanded down a little at a time one might find a way of making the switch less sensitive without completely disabling it. Just an idea for those that still like having a tailcap switch, but just not so sensitive.

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That sounds like a good idea.Maybe snip a 1/4 inch off and reassemble.If that's not enough try another 1/4 inch until it's just right.If your worried about damaging a light that may belong to your department or if you plan on selling it at a later time you might consider contacting Pelican.You can explain that your a LEO and ask for a replacement switch.Pelican is famous around here for the quality of their customer service and will likely not charge you anything.

I decided I liked this light when I had one so I have another on the way from the CPF Marketplace. I emailed Pelican and no they haven't made a less sensitive switch, but they were kind enough to send me a replacement tailcap that I'll attempt to modify using AF's instructions. I'm not planning on disabling it, just cut back on the sensitivity. It maybe a few weeks before I have everything and work on this little project, but I'll post the results when I finish.

This might be a long shot, but would the tail cap from the 8060 work? Or what about switching over to the 8060's? Same as the 7060, just a tad longer and no tail cap switch.

Tempsho said:

This might be a long shot, but would the tail cap from the 8060 work? Or what about switching over to the 8060's? Same as the 7060, just a tad longer and no tail cap switch.

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The 8060 tailcap won't fit on the 7060 from what I gather.

Is a tad 4 inches? At 12.67 inches, the 8060 is just a "tad" too long to carry on my belt.

LowBat said:

I decided I liked this light when I had one so I have another on the way from the CPF Marketplace. I emailed Pelican and no they haven't made a less sensitive switch, but they were kind enough to send me a replacement tailcap that I'll attempt to modify using AF's instructions. I'm not planning on disabling it, just cut back on the sensitivity. It maybe a few weeks before I have everything and work on this little project, but I'll post the results when I finish.

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Ok, I got another 7060 tailcap from Pelican and took it apart per Andreas Ferrari's instructions. I sanded down the narrow button gradually and then realized it no longer clicks on because the bigger button that goes over it needs room to overlap the narrow button. The solution was to sand down most of the overlapping part on the bigger button until the clicky action worked again. Next I discovered the spring is too big and had to cut it down a little to account for the shorter clicky action. To be sure I super glued the big button onto the narrow button before reassembly. End result, the tailcap switch still works and is much less sensitive, and not nearly as prone to accidental activations. It is still however very easy to use the switch in momentary mode, and in my opinion this modification makes the switch better.

Another idea occurred to me that doesn't require sanding or gluing or cutting the spring. That is to place a rubber o-ring between the switch boot and the back of the tailcap housing. It should recess the rubber boot into the housing thereby making it less prone to accidental activations. There maybe a problem with clearance of the switch assembly against the battery using this method. I really don't know as I haven't tried it; it's just an idea I had.