My Personalized EagleTac M2C4 (lots of pictures, 56k be aware!)

My EagleTac M2C4 arrived last week. It's my first EagleTac and I am pretty satisfied with my purchase. Here are some modifications I have done on her to make it the "Perfect M2C4" for me.:devil:
By reading the post by richardcpf, you can tell the light is controlled by remote sensors. I adjusted the second sensor slightly to increase the separation of the turbo mode. I also noticed you can change the mounting position of the circuit board (counter-clockwise from the original position) to reduce the separation of the strobe mode.:tinfoil:


I also put some markings on the light to tell me what level I am currently at. I also did a 30 minutes water-proof test (see below).


Remove the three screws at the bottom of the head




The circuit
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5135/96798577.jpg

The sensor. I solder the sensor back to its original position (approximately) in this picture

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/8963/57851750.jpg

Unsolder it and move it to the center position.
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8866/21814765.jpg

Mount here to reduce the strobe separation. Or doing reverse to increase the separation

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7806/35984038.jpg

Now put everything back together

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/9026/83011038.jpg

I did these markings inspired by nakahoshi

Turbo
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4465/96996917.jpg

High
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2970/39096582.jpg

Med
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/6875/32455366.jpg

Low
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/8485/73864186.jpg

Here are the some washers that I just got in the mail from EagleTac. It solves the waterproof issue of these lights.
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1483/48027472.jpg
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/8859/31870825.jpg

Body tube with the screws and washers. I also tighten the screws at the back of the body tube just to make sure.

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/6179/96234419.jpg

Waterproof testing in the washroom
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/9272/75245154.jpg
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/9176/18529234.jpg

No leakage found after 30 minutes

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/559/13797705.jpg

very nice idea for the markings, is that white out? lol

Thanks for the mod - or should I say - FIX instructions. :thumbsup:

I think alot of people are going to want to do this to solve the easy-strobe :sick2: issue everyone is having.

Only thing is whether this will void the lifetime warranty which was part of EagleTac's deal...?

To be honest, in light of the easy-strobe and some people's extreme annoyance with this issue, it would be proper customer service if Eagletac took this on the chin and state formally that this fix does NOT void the warranty.

Us early adopters shouldn't have to pay a price for being first to stump up for pre-orders and the first batch of orders. Better than us all demanding they do a recall...

Hi

Someone forwarded us this page. Very interesting and useful DIY.

Just a tip: When adjusting the sensor, keep soldering time in two to three seconds. The sensor is a SMT type (designed to withstand soldering heat). It's made of a glass tube and protective plastic cover.

Warranty applies as long as you do not break anything.

Thanks

Nicole

That's great news Nicole :twothumbs

Thanks for responding so swiftly, and for the additional tips too.

Excellent! I was hoping something like this would eventually crop up! I might have to give it a try myself. Now off to find some stuff to practice my soldering on first. No way am I trying it on this light with my current skillset. Have to improve things a bit first. I might have to apply to ET for a couple of those O-rings as well to bolster Waterproofing.

CanI just remount the board? I don't have the equipment nor the abilty and just plain afraid to resolder my light but would like it if strobe was further away.

Did you use glow paint for your dots?

i wonder if there is a way to add some positive feedback for the selector.

Excellent Pictures!

Can't wait to get mine now, Would it in theory be possible to remove the Strobe sensor from the circuit, and dissable the strobe mode all together?

Dan

Ogg Vorbis said:

Excellent Pictures!

Can't wait to get mine now, Would it in theory be possible to remove the Strobe sensor from the circuit, and dissable the strobe mode all together?

Dan

Click to expand...

I was just thinking that. :naughty:

Only thing i'm thinking is that there will be a gap in the sensors, which may act as an 'OFF' stage if there is nothing there to turn on?

Maybe the tracks for the strobe could be isolated, and the sensor then wired in parallel with the Turbo sensor, making it near impossible to miss it!

Dan

For those not technically inclined (like me) I found a quick "fix". If you want to immediately get into turbo, deliberately
hit strobe than instantly back off to turbo or high. I tried it a few times and it really works. It works best if the selector ring turns easily.

I also did a ceiling bounce comparison between the M2C4, M2XC4 (6000K), and the Wolfeyes Storm 780. http://www.light-reviews.com/we_storm/review.html

Regardless of the lumen ratings, the M2XC4 and the Storm were both noticeably brighter than the M2C4. The Storm and M2XC4 were roughly equal in brightness.

BTW, is there any way to ease the resistance on the selector ring?

Brightnorm

Nicole,
Thanks for posting an official EagleTac response!

The above picture sure explains any variation of distance between levels! Mine were soldered much "straighter".

Could you elaborate what changes are being done for M2 water resistance?

Is it just the small O-rings for the 8 screws? Could you list the size? I could pick some up locally.

Great light...I am very pleased to own one.
G27

Can the strobe be disabled completely?
If so, when you move the ring selector to the strobe position will the flashlight turn off or stay in turbo?
Thanks.

I would also like to know about the magnetic switches and circuitry they feed. Would a powerful enough magnet or multiple magnets be able to activate more than 1 level at the same time and overdrive the LED(s) or smoke the board?
I started worrying about that when I used a single rare earth magnet to hit each switch one at a time.
G27

You could also line up the markings the opposite way around:





The advantages of doing so:
- The markings can be lined up perfectly (not limited by the indentations in the power ring).
- The markings on the head are less prone to wear than the power ring, so should last longer.
- If one wants to remove the markings later, it might be easier to remove the multiple level markings from the head (metal) than from the rubberized power ring.

An elegant way of labeling the power levels would be to use a PTouch or Dymo plastic labeler (white letters on black tape) around the entire circumference of the head, like Milkyspit labels his creations, with just small tick marks on the beveled portion of the head.

Note: This is a photoshopped picture of the earlier posted image. For illustration purposes only.

I used a label maker and did a little temporary labeling. Something is needed, but I'm not sure how best I can do it. I didn't mark off or strobe, I didn't feel the need to.

Hey cool!

I inspired something!

Thanks for the credit:wave:

I used a silver sharpie, and it worked really good on the selection ring



I have some pictures of the Inside of the M2(x)

Please, don't try this at home! You wont be able to get it back!!!




Figure these pictures would be good for this thread, to see all of the insides.





Also, Is there a sensor for the strobe that could be removed? I wouldnt mind doing that! Thanks for these awesome pictures!!!



-Bobby

6 post and youve already dismantled and modified a brand new light? Im pushing 400+ and ive... uhh... changed a buncha batteries? lovecpf
Ohh yea And Ive just gotten my nyogel so I cleaned and relubed threads. I think that qualifies me as a semi-professional? :thumbsup:

But on another note I didnt want one of those eagletac's but now im seriously concidering one!