AHOY THERE

Hi Guys,
Need Some advice - want to spend up to fifty pounds on a flashlight.
The main purpose is picking out marine channel markers at night that have red or green reflective tape on them.
The flashlight would need a good beam as the general method I use on my VERY samll boat is a sweeping action to pick up the channel markers that are up to about 200ft apart. The GPS gives me a head start with this but you just can't beat the comfort of seeing these things.
Corrosion is an issue too as saltwater is of course quite corrosive.
If I need to spend more I'll have to bite the bullet but there seems to be a few good flashlights at about this price?
Any advice would be most welcome.
Cheers!

Sorry, totally misunderstood your post earlier. You'll probably need a decent light that throws.

The Tiablo A10 or the DBS comes to mind.

Hello bermuda potter, :welcome:
You're probably going to want something with neutral white. Around the water there is always a possibility for fog or mist and you'll need the lower color temp to punch through it.

So fifty British pounds = about $80USD

There's a lot of good flashlights out there for that price. The first that comes to mind is the EagleTac T10LC2 in neutral white.
Once you get some good possibilities in this thread use the search function and do your own research so you can make an educated decision.

The Fenix TK20 has a neutral white LED, and is apparently a bit of a "thrower". They sell for approx £45.

Rob

Fenix TK20. No doubt about it. 2 modes (one all night general use mode and one 01:30 hours turbo mode), bombroof, uses 2 AA cells and it's a thrower.

You really need a neutral / warm tinted LED. Cool white LED's don't give enough red light to make the red reflective markers stand out if there's even a little bit of rain / fog. About the corrosion resistance: Polymer lights will resist salt water better than aluminium lights (like the TK20). However, there are no high-output polymer LED lights as LED's need to get rid of the heat they produce. Rinse the salt off the light after you've used it and you'll be fine. If the rubber grip or switch cover wear too much you can easily get new ones.

The TK20 performs best on NiMH rechargeables or lithium primaries. I would advise you to get a decent NiMH charger (one that automatically stops charging when the cells are full) and (at least) 4 high capacity AA NiMH cells if you don't have those already. Alkalines can be used, but the runtimes are much shorter.

Also, even tough I probably don't need to tell you this: Use a lanyard and lube the threads and O-rings (this improves the water-resistance).

I think there's a UK dealer selling them online, but due to the low dollar it may be cheaper to order from 4sevens.com

+1 on the TK20, built like a tank and really throws. Two modes and very common batteries.

tk20 or p10a2 in the neutral led.

I hate to recommend something other than LED lights, BUT, nothing beats the very tight beam on UK hot wire lights. Penetrates fog and mist extremely well. Polymer case, waterproof, shock resistance. The smaller 4AA is used by fire fighters to penetrate smoke.

I have been using Undewater Kinetics lights for boating for almost 10 years. It's not the tint that counts, but the very tight beam. These are primarily dive lights with little to no spill that would reflect off suspended particles.

If you want to find REFLECTIVE buoys at night tint does not matter. Throw does.

Walter

h2oflyer said:

If you want to find REFLECTIVE buoys at night tint does not matter. Throw does.

Walter

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Actually at the distances he is talking about neither of those matter. A 30 lumen light would be sufficient for the task of finding reflective buoys at 200'. An old Coast I have can make the reflective signs pop from an extremely long distance and it only has about 30 lumens. Now actually seeing anything non-reflective at that distance is another matter.

Another +1 for the Fenix TK20. Get some Eneloops to go along with it and you'll be set.

30 lumens with spill in marine conditions(haze/mist) is good for on board use only. Check out Underwater Kinetics SL 6. Forget recharchables.

I have over 30 years of small boat night experience, and until I discovered UK lights about 10 years ago, had tried everything else.

My LED lights come close in throw, but spill makes them worthless sometimes. Fixed mount search lights are always high power and narrow beam, and have been since WW II.

I would look into the pelican dive lights. A xenon model for thick fog and a LED model for general use (for the extended runtime) would probably be ideal. Underwater Kinetics is a great resource, as is tektite's dive flashlights (not their dedicated dive lights)

+ another on the TK20

If it were me, I'd go with the TK20 or the Romisen RC-N3 Q5.

Both take AA batteries. Shoot, you could get both for $80 USD. :twothumbs

Either the TK20, or if you want lower price, the 2 mode Romisen RC-N3 Q5 from shiningbeam. Both should be more then enough. Low mode to see the reflection, high to see what's around it.

:welcome:

TK20 is a good light for bag or pocket carry for use on board and at the dock or launch ramp.

The OP asked for a light for picking out channel markers and suitable for corrosive salt water conditions. You can drop an UK light in the bilge... leave it onboard for extended periods....THEY ARE MADE FOR THIS USE !

I have to ask how many posters have tried finding channel markers at night with a 30 lumen LED light. My UK300,SL4,and SL6 will all outperform my TK10 for picking up reflective markers.

A light with any spill will only perform in absolute clear air with no airbourne water or salt particles. Not the real boating world.

Walter

h2oflyer said:

30 lumens with spill in marine conditions(haze/mist) is good for on board use only. Check out Underwater Kinetics SL 6. Forget recharchables.

I have over 30 years of small boat night experience, and until I discovered UK lights about 10 years ago, had tried everything else.

My LED lights come close in throw, but spill makes them worthless sometimes. Fixed mount search lights are always high power and narrow beam, and have been since WW II.

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No direct experience with UK lights but considering H2oFlyers experience and my 10 years of boating, I would stay away from aluminum lights because I have seen aluminum corrode to the extent that the material would start to resemble and rival some barnacles.

gallonoffuel said:

I would look into the pelican dive lights. A xenon model for thick fog and a LED model for general use (for the extended runtime) would probably be ideal. Underwater Kinetics is a great resource, as is tektite's dive flashlights (not their dedicated dive lights)

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Again, I would personally stick with waterproof and dive rated lights preferably incandescent/xenon lights and their color rendition are still second to none IMHO and many led lights with a collimator lens will throw quite well and are nice backups for their run time.

Lumaray makes a "Fog Head" for their lights and it may be useful even if you just are just checking out their unique designs. I also like the idea of a mounted light or at least creating some type of bracket because as you know, once you drop the light overboard, it's gone and it ain't never coming back unless you attatch some sort of flotation device to your light. That's my 2 cents and they have a nice patina from the salt water, you know, when pennies were actually made out of copper.

Ahhh, the sound of bouy bells, foghorns, and looping mooring lines through cleats you are making me jealous!

So tell me, are you actually a potter as well or have direct experience with ceramics?

I'm thinking crayfish pots (lobster traps)

Walter

Only one person has mentioned to go with plastic or non-metallic lights, because of the corrosion problem. You will most likely want something that floats too. Maybe a bright yellow colour.

Guys - I'm staggered by the depth of advice and really appreciate your help.

Going to check out the TK20 of course and UK lights too.

The aluminium is a bit of a problem - had an al flashlght (Stormlight - used to use it for trekking - not the greatest) it was a raw al finish which didn't hold up to a marine environment but I'm guessing the TK20 has a painted finish which would help.

UK Lights / Underwater Kinetics is a new source for me so I'll take a look there.

So tell me, are you actually a potter as well or have direct experience with ceramics?

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I'm a die hard Stoke City fan - hence the Potter and moved from Stafford to Bermuda two and a half years ago - hence the Bermuda - no experience of ceramics though - work in construction.


Boat is used for taking the missus out swimming and snorkeling and also fishing with mates - often at night after work with a crate of beers.

Thanks again for all of the advice!!!