Output comparison of some popular lights

Just as one point of reference some might want to refer to in comparing the overall output of some popular lights I have compiled ceiling bounce measurements of some of my lights... the EV numbers are only meaningful in relative reference to other lights listed here. A change in 1-EV represents a doubling or halving of measured output.



Hopefully, this chart may be of some use to someone here.

Most interesting comparisons. Thanks.

Nice data, thanks.

What jumps out at me is that the LD01/10440 output is surprisingly high, and the ConneXion X2/14500 output is surprisingly low.

I was a little disappointed to see the AKOray K-103/10440 rated so low. If a pocket rocket is desired, the LD01 would seem the clear choice.

boomhauer said:

Nice data, thanks.

What jumps out at me is that the LD01/10440 output is surprisingly high, and the ConneXion X2/14500 output is surprisingly low.

I was a little disappointed to see the AKOray K-103/10440 rated so low. If a pocket rocket is desired, the LD01 would seem the clear choice.

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Yeah, the ConneXion X2 really surprises me too. Perhaps I just got a wimpy one, I really don't know. Or LumaPower has designed the light for long runtimes and not so much output, perhaps. I haven't measured draw yet, but I will!

The LD01 never ceases to AMAZE me and anyone I show it to. Last night my friend who thought MiniMags were nice lights came over... when he saw the LD01/10440 in action outside on my acreage, he was literally dumbfounded and amazed. That's a must-have light for me. I gave him a K-106 with a 14500 and charger and I don't think he'll ever use that minimag again.

My current source of amazement is an Energizer 1W 1AA (a $9 Target special) with a 14500 - that sucker is bright! It's on par with my R2 "SuperBright" drop-in with 2 CR123 primaries, so it's probably in the same ballpark as your Solarforce entry. But it would also be no brighter than your LD01 (and nowhere near the size).

Which version of the SF L1 did you use?

copperfox said:

Which version of the SF L1 did you use?

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Probably the latest Cree version.

Outdoors Fanatic said:

Probably the latest Cree version.

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Yes... my L1 has the latest CREE emitter. Really wakes up with the RCR123... about 70% more output vs. primary. (As determined by light meter EV measurement. EV 3.9 with CR123 to EV 4.6 with RCR123, making for a 70% increase in output as an increase of 1 EV represents a doubling of output.

Mine is brighter with RCR than with a primary, but nowhere near 80% more, more like 20%... :candle:

copperfox said:

Mine is brighter with RCR than with a primary, but nowhere near 80% more, more like 20%... :candle:

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Interesting... how are you measuring that difference?

My L1 on CR123 vs. RCR123 shows an EV increase of .7 EV. With 1 EV representing a doubling of output... that's where I came up with an 70% increase.

I am under the impression that our perception of light increases logrithmically, meaning that it take large increases in output for the human eye to perceive small increases in brightness. I think I remember hearing somewhere that when actual light output is doubled, it will only appear to be about 30% brighter to the naked eye. It is possible that your L1 is actually putting out around 80% more light while your naked eye is only noticing about a 20% increase in brightness. I think that the only way to actually verify this is by using a light meter.

Interesting table, quick source of reference. Good work. Now I'm itching to get a LD01. But still torn between spending a lot of dough versus getting the cheap Ultrafire WF-602c.

I have no way to judge except my eyeballs. :shrug:

I suppose it could be 80% brighter, but it only appears a little bit brighter, and 80 seems like a big number :thinking:.

I've heard that a 10% difference in brightness is about the lower limit that is perceptible. I've also heard that it takes 4x as many lumens to appear twice as bright.

Copperfox... I just noticed that I initially misread the data in my table... with the L1, the increase from CR123 to RCR123 is .7 EV (3.9 to 4.6). So the light output on RCR123 is 70% greater than with CR213. I edited my posts above to reflect this correction.

I think your scale is very confusing DHart. Can't you normalize the results so that if a light is twice as bright as another the number in the right-hand column will also be twice as high? I can't understand log values just by looking at them in a table.

DHart, could you explain how you performed these tests, conditions, ceiling height and equipment used?

I expect that the emitter, driver and battery combination contribute the most to the Exposure Value measurement, but what about lense and reflector? For example, does the MG L-Mini II score the same with the head removed? I have a Q5 plus Turbo Head on order and I wonder how much difference that would make from your headless or normal Q3.

I also hope to see EVs for some of the lower modes of your multimode lights.
Great thread - I hope your list grows and gets stickied! JEHart

copperfox said:

I think your scale is very confusing DHart. Can't you normalize the results so that if a light is twice as bright as another the number in the right-hand column will also be twice as high? I can't understand log values just by looking at them in a table.

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Copperfox... sorry this confuses you. Yes, of course the data can be presented in a huge variety of ways, however you wish to do it. But EV works great and easy. Change in EV of 1 = 100% change, EV of .25 = 25% change, EV change of .3 = 30%... etc. It's very straightforward to me anyway, but perhaps not be to some folks. My time to play with the data is somewhat limited, so I'm going to leave it at EV for now. But of course, if you wish, you can take the EV values, enter them into a spreadsheet and distribute/present them however you wish for whatever you particular purpose may be.

BurlyEd... the set up is simple... the test room is a dark bathroom with a white ceiling. The lights are shined at the ceiling from a fixed point of about 30" from the ceiling and the light bouncing back from the ceiling is measured with a Minolta Auto Meter set to read EV values - meter positioned right next to the light head with sensor aimed at the ceiling. It's not a scientifically perfect set-up, but works well to gain an overall judgement of the relative output of one light verses another.

I wonder how much difference it makes if you hang a dark bath towel on the shower door of your bathroom vs. a white towel during these tests??

I'm assuming you paid attention to make the conditions similar as possible.

Very nice chart. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

loanshark said:

I wonder how much difference it makes if you hang a dark bath towel on the shower door of your bathroom vs. a white towel during these tests??

I'm assuming you paid attention to make the conditions similar as possible.

Very nice chart. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

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Nothing in the bathroom has changed from one measurement to another.

Thanks for the data. Yes, it is very easy to figure out % increases. Works as good my LM631 lightmeter, maybe better. Are reading taken from start up or after warming up?

Bill