How to bore out the battery tube?

Tranworld

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I have a torch that I like very much, trouble is it take only 2xCR123 and it has a very close fit. I want to use 18650 battery in it and need to open up the barrel the 1 mm or so but I don't want to go to a machine shop for that, the charge they make will probably be almost as much as buying a new multi battery torch.

I read somewhere that someone have used a simple tool attached to a drill to do that. any idea?
 

precisionworks

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Another (similar) method is a ball hone, made by BRM and sold by MSC/J&L:

http://www.brushresearch.com/product-line.php?line=1

I don't want to go to a machine shop for that
You want to find an automotive machine shop, one that does heads & blocks, etc. They'll have a machine called a Sunnen "pin hone" that's used for final finishing on piston wrist pin bores. To take out 1 mm (.039") should take only a few minutes - at a dollar a minute, the total charge should be no more than $10. A brake cylinder hone or ball hone will cost that much, and the Sunnen hone does a much nicer & more predictable job.
 

LuxLuthor

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I tried the full gamut of ball hones, various grits, coarse/medium. They only work for smoothing out irregularities. They are a total waste of time and money for this purpose, and they are not cheap. Use the KD Hone.
 

darkzero

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Ball/flex hones yields way better results but the disadvantage in this case is that they are not "adjustable". You are limited to specific size ranges. I only used them for honing engine cylinders though & is what I prefered.

For this purpose a wheel cylinder hone with the stones would work best for "boring" a flashlight. Be sure to use plenty of lube as the aluminum will clog the stones very fast. Although this will work it might take you a while.

Why not contact one of the guys here that have a lathe? If it's a simple straight through bore it shouldn't cost you that much. I agree with Barry, if you can find a local automotive machine shop it shouldn't cost you that much & could be done pretty quick. Around here we have many Auto parts stores with a machine shop onsite (not the large retail chain stores).
 

LuxLuthor

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I recently went through another instance of using my KD Brake Hone to bore out an old Elephant Mag section, and it took forever. Part of the problem is the KD Hone uses three of the 1" long stones that are 320 grit. Reversing drill, and doing it under a trickle of water to wash away dust and keep parts cool helps--but I went through 3-4 charges of my drill.

However, I have now decided after spending an hour looking at all the various brake hones, that this particular "Powerbuilt 64831" for $13.73 is the best setup. It has 2" long stones that are 220 grit which will go a lot faster. Replacement stones are here which have a 2-4 week wait. (I get free shipping on both items with my Amazon Prime)

From my experience if you need to do these hone jobs, this is the best option. Forget the FlexHone brand--tried 3-4 of them and wasted my $$$.
 

LuxLuthor

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We are talking Mag C, D, and Elephant size tubes. I don't think $13.73 for a brake hone is too high of a price to get it done....but if you prefer a sandpaper technique, go for it.
 

Chodes

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We are talking Mag C, D, and Elephant size tubes. I don't think $13.73 for a brake hone is too high of a price to get it done....but if you prefer a sandpaper technique, go for it.

Price was irrelevant to me, I have not tried brake hones , but inspired by fishx65's thread , I bought 3 sheets of 80 grit wet and dry. I used about half a sheet , could do it with a third next time.:grin2:
So many times I have attempted "bush mechanic" techniques, imagining the possible results beforehand then wanting to bury the finished product.

The drill press/ 80 grit wet and dry 6P experience was unbelievable. Far better than I imagined.

A little time consuming, but easy. I spent about 5 minutes cutting small pieces of wet and dry off my "rig" until I could just squeeze a small piece into the light. Then another 5 minutes turning the drill chuck by hand to get all the way in. I accidentally lost my grip with the drill on , lost a couple of heartbeats , but then just laughed as the 6P just sat there spinning like it was mounted in a lathe. As the sandpaper wore , I'd cut a layer off and insert some thin cardboard to increase the diameter.
Using good quality tape , the sandpaper did not detach for the whole job. I did not use any fluid for cooling or lubrication.

It took about 30-40 minutes all up. 10 of that would have been waiting for the tube to cool, I could only find thin gloves. Due to the very small margin of error around the tailcap O-ring area on the 6P, I went very slow at the end, just 5-10 seconds of drilling with cordless drill at a time.

Better gloves, water tray so I can cool body without making a mess and 20 minutes should complete the job.
 

LuxLuthor

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Chodes, understood.

BTW, I took these comparison pix between KD & Powerbuilt hones. If you are going to get one, go for the coarser Powerbuilt.


 
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