My G3L-FYL - Initial observations and LOADS of pics!

It has arrived today! This might be considered a review. The whole thing certainly burned up some spare time today anyway!

It's body is NOT Nitrolon, it is actually Xenoy. Also, why in the world would Surefire use a Polycarb window in a flashlight meant to be used inside flaming homes? Where is the glass guys? Oh well I have spare UCL anyway.

The bezel and tail are aluminum like I thought it would be. Both are the standard parts we have seen before. I will not swear they are HA-BK but they are certainly not as shiny a finish as on this 9P I have here. Also the tail clicky is a dead match for the one on my U2. So is it HA-BK, I think it is possible.
Also I do not understand the refusal of SF to make a Nitrolon, or Xenoy I suppose, clicky switch.

There is no reflector change system, another SF phone rep full of BS. Or are they possibly instructed to lie about new items? It is actually a set of 3 filters that go under the lens. A 10, 15, and 20 degree. They are clear when you remove the protective film. The cool part is now we have a SF supplied bezel ring tool!

The P60L is a standard one and SF still makes them very cool.

The reflective stickers are plentiful with 3 rows of squares, 2 long rows of strips, and 2 long rows of narrower strips. 3 of my squares were boogered up in packing. It's pretty shiny but I've seen better in the SOLAS tape.

The color match to the standard yellow Nitrolon is horrible. Really!

The lanyard is yellow and long, like really long - 30 inches long. There is a new clip at the end of it and I like it, strong and less likely to snag on things.

There is the traditional clear grease on the tail threads but the head threads have an off white grease on them. I wonder at the difference and reason. Also of note is that there is only 1 O-ring groove on the tail, there are still 2 on the head. Curious.

With a Malkoff installed the gap is quite large. :thumbsdow There is a reason for this.

When SF pressed the tube liner into place they either did not trim it enough first or pressed it too far into the tube because I can see it sticking up in there further than on my G2. That's the problem since the threaded section is exactly the same as on my G2 with a perfect Malkoff fit. I can not send it in as a warranty claim since the P60L fits fine but I can use my Dremel tool and do a bit O grinding!! Or I can flare the head end inner tube a bit more. Either should work and I think it will not be like this on other G3L-FYL's. More owners need to check their lights.

With the Al switch the lanyard ring fits fine but when using a Nitrolon switch there is no room to put the lanyard ring on there.

I guess it's not so great for Nitrolon Lego like I had hoped but on it's own I do like it and it is a bit unique. No runtime tests are needed since it's the standard P60L and it's nice that SF has put out more accurate runtime and output figures for it instead of the farce it was.

BEAMSHOTS!
I am not too good at these but for you guys I have made the attempt. Be kind. Also there is a protective film on each side of all 3 little filters, it is a fat PITA to get them off without using a knife or needle.
No diffusion: The Norm.

10 degree diffusion: Softer but with some reach.

15 degree diffusion: Diffused area light.

20 degree diffusion: Beam, what beam?


Are there any questions you have for me?
lovecpf

Re: My G3L-FYL - Initial observations and plenty of pics!

nice! Now if we could get a standard G2/G3 in that same fluorescent color...

Re: My G3L-FYL - Initial observations and plenty of pics!

Heck yeah!

Re: My G3L-FYL - Initial observations and plenty of pics!

Thanks for the info and all the good pics! Very interesting.

Sgt. LED said:

The bezel and tail are aluminum like I thought it would be. Both are the standard parts we have seen before. I will not swear they are HA-BK but they are certainly not as shiny a finish as on this 9P I have here. Also the tail clicky is a dead match for the one on my U2. So is it HA-BK, I think it is possible.

Click to expand...

Sgt. LED said:

Also I do not understand the refusal of SF to make a Nitrolon, or Xenoy I suppose, clicky switch.

Click to expand...

I notice that the aluminum heads on the nitrolon lights have had that matte finish for quite a while now. I wonder if it is some kind of applied oxide coating or powder-coating or something. It looks 'thicker' to me than their HA, but that's just my opinion. It's got to be less expensive than the type II anod. on the (somewhat higher-end) 6P's/9P's, otherwise why bother?
I'm not very familiar with the SF clickies, my two ideas: Regarding the conductive path in the clickies, is a conductive path in the actual tailcap body ever needed? Or might you need a sharp shelf or something that could wear and become unreliable if it consisted of plastic? Just idle thoughts.

Sgt. LED said:

The cool part is now we have a SF supplied bezel ring tool!

Click to expand...

That is a nice touch. They look like very inexpensive stampings. My hat is off to the first CPF'er who gets 144 of these and ships them to everyone who pays for postage.

Sgt. LED said:

The color match to the standard yellow Nitrolon is horrible. Really!

Click to expand...

Thank you for the color comparison between the two yellows, it was difficult to get an impression of the color until now.

Sgt. LED said:

The lanyard is yellow and long, like really long - 30 inches long. There is a new clip at the end of it and I like it, strong and less likely to snag on things.

Click to expand...

Looks good. Nice and simple. Stout.

Sgt. LED said:

There is the traditional clear grease on the tail threads but the head threads have an off white grease on them. I wonder at the difference and reason. Also of note is that there is only 1 O-ring groove on the tail, there are still 2 on the head. Curious.

Click to expand...

I have noticed that the new 3-cell injection molded bodies have omitted the second o-ring groove in the tailcap area, but new-production G2 bodies still have the second groove. Even if you use a lathe to open up that tiny groove to add a second o-ring (much better feel IMO), there is still a shoulder inside the new-production nitrolon tailcaps (to identify: longer outside flutes, a protruding index marker) that will interfere with the second o-ring. Conclusion: second o-ringing the G2s are still easy, but the newer G3's are very difficult in this regard.

Sgt. LED said:

I guess it's not so great for Nitrolon Lego like I had hoped but on it's own I do like it and it is a bit unique. No runtime tests are needed since it's the standard P60L and it's nice that SF has put out more accurate runtime and output figures for it instead of the farce it was.

Click to expand...

I'm pleased that they have changed the numbers for the P60L, but I will be even more pleased when they update that mediocre P60L itself.:ironic:

Re: My G3L-FYL - Initial observations and plenty of pics!

Indeed! The P60L is not their best work. I fixed the inner tube at the head end already so the Malkoff is now perfectly in place. I don't think it's going anywhere either! UCL is also in place.
Thanks for the O-ring explanation, never thought of that.
And thanks for the big multi quote response! I've done that before and it's a bit more time consuming so it shows you care.

I also can see that this model is not nearly as interesting to the majority of CPF as it was to me. :nana:

Anybody heard of Xenoy before?

Re: My G3L-FYL - Initial observations and plenty of pics!

Added some crappy beamshots! :laughing:

Cool pics! :thumbsup:

I've also been wondering about the difference in color to the G2/G3...thanks for clearing it up.

wow, i thought the regular g2 yellow was bright (color)...lol..

I'd still like one in Floruscent orange though


Crenshaw

Oh yeah I would love an orange body.
If they released one today I would order it without any hesitation.

Isn't there suppose to be reflective stickers? Or it's an optional thing? :thinking:

yeah, that polycarb window is a boo-boo.

Thanks for the review and pics! That body color is pretty cool--it definitely needs to offered on the normal G2/G3 lights.

-Robert

Re: My G3L-FYL - Initial observations and plenty of pics!

Sgt. LED said:

I fixed the inner tube at the head end already so the Malkoff is now perfectly in place.

Thanks for the O-ring explanation, never thought of that.

I also can see that this model is not nearly as interesting to the majority of CPF as it was to me.

Click to expand...

Now that you've fixed the metal tube insert to properly seat the Malkoff, can you post a 'best practice' technique for this? (i.e., how & if you'd do anything differently if you did it again.)


Regarding adding a second o-ring, I practically went on a research project to figure out what is going on in the G-series. If anyone ever notices the elimination of the second groove on the G2's, I guess that would mean that SF might have updated the G2 mold tooling. My theory is that the initial G2 tooling had the groove, but when they made the tooling for the newer G3 body, they didn't bother making a full-width second groove. Also, I wonder if they have replaced the tooling for the tailcaps, as I've seen relatively new tailcaps with both characteristics. If SF is phasing out the older tooling, we will be getting interior shoulders on all the new nitrolon tailcaps at some point, making it more and more difficult to double-o-ring the G-series. To do my G3, I had to trade for an older-style tailcap after going through the hassle of turning the small second groove larger on a lathe. Definitely a hassle.

Going slightly OT on this, so somone could PM me if they run into the following:

• Does anybody have a G2 without a second full-width o-ring groove at the tailcap end? (This would be a new-production feature)
• Does anybody have a G2 with the new version of the nitrolon tailcap (nearly full-length flutes, protruding index marker)? (This would also be new-production)
• Does anybody have an older G3 with a second full-width o-ring groove at the tailcap end? (This would be old-production)

re: is this new model interesting? Heck yeah, if I didn't just go through all this hassle on my new black G3, I'd definitely want one. Except for those odd-looking black clickie tailcaps (compared to the fluorescent body) - but I bet there's zero chance of getting fluorescent yellow twistie tailcaps (especially in the older shoulder-less tailcap tooling).:shrug:

In fairness to teh SureFire Rep, I do not think she lied intentiionally. She semed a bit confused at first and as I explained that it was a new product and what the web site stated it sounded like she was looking up the material. She did state that the reflectors changed, but she may have taken that from my cue as I had specifically asked about reflectors. Nevertheless I would have hoped they understood the difference between reflectors and diffusers and they certainly should have new prodict training before the product is released.

Once the protective paper is removed frrom the diffusers, are they different enough so that you can see a difference and tell them apart?

For me I think diffusers versus reflectors is a deal breaker. Although a reflector takes up more space, I think it would be easier to replace in the field rather than fumbling with retainer tools and a lens and filter. We had severe flash flooding in our area yesterday and making a change as needed would have been a challenge. Easier to carry one floody light as a second back up. Might be harder to pass up if it was a two level light......

Great job on the review!

I notice that the aluminum heads on the nitrolon lights have had that matte finish for quite a while now. I wonder if it is some kind of applied oxide coating or powder-coating or something. It looks 'thicker' to me than their HA, but that's just my opinion. It's got to be less expensive than the type II anod. on the (somewhat higher-end) 6P's/9P's, otherwise why bother?

Click to expand...

I believe it's powder coating, not any type of ano at all. I could be wrong...

thanks for the beam shot! i was wondering what the 20 Degree one looked like! thanks!

GreySave said:

Once the protective paper is removed frrom the diffusers, are they different enough so that you can see a difference and tell them apart?

For me I think diffusers versus reflectors is a deal breaker. Although a reflector takes up more space, I think it would be easier to replace in the field rather than fumbling with retainer tools and a lens and filter. We had severe flash flooding in our area yesterday and making a change as needed would have been a challenge.

Click to expand...

If you have them lying on your hand you can look thru the filters and tell the difference. The clearer your fingerprints the less diffusion!

I think trying to change out the diffuser in the field would be a hassle. If you really like changing them up that often I reccomend grabbing a spare bezel from the marketplace and putting what you think you might need in that one. It would be faster anyway.
I think I'll just keep the 10 degree installed and forget about it!

Re: My G3L-FYL - Initial observations and plenty of pics!

Kestrel said:

Now that you've fixed the metal tube insert to properly seat the Malkoff, can you post a 'best practice' technique for this? (i.e., how & if you'd do anything differently if you did it again.)

Click to expand...

Use anything with a round end on it and hammer it into the tube.
I used a Craftsman screwdriver with the rounded end on it and I hammered it good. The tube flared out pretty well in response. I think if you went too far you could ruin it so I suggest checking it after every few hits just to be sure.

Zeruel said:

Isn't there suppose to be reflective stickers? Or it's an optional thing? :thinking:

Click to expand...

It comes with a sheet of stickers that you have to apply yourself.
I am holding off on applying them for now.

I have had a couple of the prototypes for a while but was sworn to secrecy over them (don't want to shoot my source out from under me.) There are a couple of different versions coming out. Larger KX type heads similar to the KL5 type heads but tapered instead of rectangular. They have 3 light levels some have TIR's and some with reflectors. They are very bright on high, more light and throw than my TK11. I will check and see if they have any desire to produce them in orange. The flourescent yellow is nice though, and can be scene from a long way away.

Looks nice...I especially like the true "flourescent" compared to the G2-YL...will show up a good deal better with UV. And the ring removal tool is a plus. I think I'll go for the 3 cell version as well...I've even considered selling off my G2's for the purpose of acquiring more 3 cell lights...now I just have to find the old adapter they made to use the B65 R/C's with there 3 cell lights. Maybe they'll sell the diffusion kit seperately in the near future??? Nice pic's and a good first look at the light, Sarge!