Quark series passaround, first impressions

jzmtl

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Since many other reviews have done reviews for them with good beamshots etc, I'm not going to repeat that. Here are some of my impressions of the quark series.

LED minimag, Quark AA2, 123A2 (tac UI), 123A (clipless), AA body tube.
Note: production forward clicky will have black tail cap, not blue as photographed, 47 has stated there is no plan to have blue cap available :(.
dscn2296.jpg



The overall construction is very high quality, I'm confident to say that it is on par with the few Surefire I've had. There is very little or no thread play from what I can see, perhaps this is the result of square thread 47 has chosen. The anodize is visually similar to what Fenix and Eagletac use, I scratched it with a knife (sorry 47 :p), but there was no damage at all to the finish. I did not try to do this with the sapphire window as there appears to be AR coating on outside as well, and I did not want to damage it.

The overall physical structure is very similar to other Chinese made light, with two bumps around the + contact serve as physical reverse polarity protector, and tail cap constructed of rubber boot, metal washer, clicky switch, and retainer ring. The switches (both forward and reverse) look and feel quite sturdy. Activation of forward clicky feels very nice, no mushy and long travel that I hate. Body has lots of knurling, they provide decent traction but not too aggressive.

Clip is very nicely designed. It's attached to one end via screwed on collar, and the body tube can be reversed to choose either head up or down carry. However because of this design, there is no tail cap lockout available. This doesn't seem to be a problem on recessed reverse clicky, but may be one if you throw your forward clicky Quark into a bag full of stuff. Also single 123a version will have either permanently attached clip on head or no clip.

UI wise, I don't really like the regular UI. I'm not a big fan of low low, it's useful to have but I don't want to start on it every time and have to switch to next mode. The tactical UI however is excellent. Programming is very straight forward, I have it set to low and high and it fits my need perfectly. Just a note on AA version, high and max has barely noticeable difference, so essentially you are losing the max mode. Also the body tube is short enough that clip will scratch either head or tail cap when turning. Just keep that in mind if you want the single AA version.

The beam is nice with zero artifacts. Hotspot is distinct with smooth transition to spill.

I definitely see a tactical UI quark in my future, just haven't decided which one yet.

If I find anything else new I will modify this post.


Added 7-1-09: All 4 battery tubes fit their respective number of cells perfectly without rattle with supplied caps. Very nice design, although at $20 each it's IMO too expensive to use for that purpose only, if you decide to have multiple tubes for different battery options you can keep battey inside so they are ready to go.

dscn2297x.jpg
 
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jzmtl

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Removable and reversible. Notice the differently knurled collar right next to base of clip, it unscrews and clip pulls off.
 

Black Rose

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When Eric (4Sevens.ca) was here last Friday, the only thing I didn;t like about the Quark lights that he had with him was the clip on the 123A light.

It is not removable and gets in the way when changing batteries.

The tactical UI sounds perfect.
 

jzmtl

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When Eric (4Sevens.ca) was here last Friday, the only thing I didn;t like about the Quark lights that he had with him was the clip on the 123A light.

It is not removable and gets in the way when changing batteries.

The tactical UI sounds perfect.

Did he say if he'll stock the tac UI version?

The 123A clip did look very awkward from pics, I'm still trying to decide if I should get the single 123a or the 2x123a.
 

woodrow

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I love how 4Sevens design assures that the led is perfectly centered....something all companies should do. I am having a really hard time deciding if I want the 2x123a version or a SF LX2. Both look like great lights...but only need one.
 

mar3

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....
The overall construction is very high quality, I'm confident to say that it is on par with the few Surefire I've had. There is very little or no thread play from what I can see, perhaps this is the result of square thread 47 has chosen. ....

Remove o-ring and then check " thread play" :D

My Quark 1AA had huge thread play in head :sssh:

... long way to SF threads ...
 
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woodrow

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Remove o-ring and then check " thread play" :D

My Quark 1AA had huge thread play in head :sssh:

... long way to SF threads ...


I was going to write asking everyone to please not start a Quark vs. Surefire debate...but I do think mar3 brings up a valid point.

I am trying to decide between 2x123a Quark, the Olight T20 new ui version..forget the name... and the Surefire LX2.

Part of the reason I want the LX2 is because I imagine it is a very well built light for the $200...and I liked the beam of my E2DL...though wish it had a little more spill.

I am wondering how the Quark fit and finish stacks up against Surefire's...but I also like how I am pretty sure that if I buy a Quark light, the led will be centered (have not always been able to count on that with SF) and the tint will be good...My E2DL had a good tint..but 6pL and KX1 head did not.

So I welcome the comparrisons.
 

Black Rose

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Did he say if he'll stock the tac UI version?

The 123A clip did look very awkward from pics, I'm still trying to decide if I should get the single 123a or the 2x123a.
I believe he said he wouldn't be carrying is as a stock item, but could easily bring a particular model in if someone wants one.

I'll check with him and get back to you on that.
 

jzmtl

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Remove o-ring and then check " thread play" :D

My Quark 1AA had huge thread play in head :sssh:

... long way to SF threads ...

Why would you want to do that? That's like saying remove the tires from car and the ride will be bumpy. If there is no thread play at all you won't be able to screw on the head or tailcap.

Compare quality to surefire is a huge compliment to SF's status as leader in quality, not sure why people get their panties twisted over it. If you want to do it fine, just keep it out of my thread.
 
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mar3

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Why would you want to do that? That's like saying remove the tires from car and the ride will be bumpy. If there is no thread play at all you won't be able to screw on the head or tailcap.
....

You got me wrong, it is clear that some "thread play" must be but not so HUGE :/

I wonder why treads in tail cup are much better.
 

jzmtl

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Just tested something, all 4 battery tubes fit their respective number of cells perfectly without rattle with supplied caps. Very nice design, although at $20 each it's IMO too expensive to use for that purpose only, if you decide to have multiple tubes for different battery options you can keep battey inside so they are ready to go.

You got me wrong, it is clear that some "thread play" must be but not so HUGE :/

I wonder why treads in tail cup are much better.

Sorry, I'm just tired of seeing everything turned into SF vs. xxx.

I tried all three lights I have and they all have similar but small amount of thread play without o ring.
 
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mar3

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Sorry, I'm just tired of seeing everything turned into SF vs. xxx.

...

I understand - I did not want to compare SF Vs Quark

Sorry :oops:

edit.
Maybe other users can check "thread play" on their Quark's :)


 
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vali

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I dont care about a bit of thread play as long as it is waterproof and dont wear. The only thing that worries me is the fact that they are not anodized: if the light relies on the threads for the current path, lubing them can lead to flickering (correct me if I am wrong).
 

jzmtl

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I dont care about a bit of thread play as long as it is waterproof and dont wear. The only thing that worries me is the fact that they are not anodized: if the light relies on the threads for the current path, lubing them can lead to flickering (correct me if I am wrong).

Well if you look at all the lights that use the tighten/loosen head mechanism, the head thread is not anodized since two different electrical paths are needed for switching mode groups, but none of them really have flickering problem (save for a early fenix I have that's probably because of poor machining). With the clip design quark use the battery tube needs to be flipped around so no end can have anodized thread.
 

vali

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Uhmm... you are right. I have to admit I was thinking only in the tailcap. I had some lights that if you lube the threads, they flick. The most similar flashlight to the quarks I currently own, a LD20, has not anodized in the head either, but since I almost never use the turbo, I didnt remember the need for it.

Now, since you noted the need of two electrical paths, I understand the reason for that and will be a bit less worried. Thanks. BTW, I planned to get 1xAA and 2xAA versions even when I thought that was a deffect, one of them with tactical head, but my current monetary situation dont allow me to purchase them. Then my worries will be about tint, since almost all owners said the "cool" version is rather "neutral" and that can be different in next batches.:sigh: (yes, humans need to worry about something... ever :D)
 

jzmtl

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Uhmm... you are right. I have to admit I was thinking only in the tailcap. I had some lights that if you lube the threads, they flick. The most similar flashlight to the quarks I currently own, a LD20, has not anodized in the head either, but since I almost never use the turbo, I didnt remember the need for it.

Now, since you noted the need of two electrical paths, I understand the reason for that and will be a bit less worried. Thanks. BTW, I planned to get 1xAA and 2xAA versions even when I thought that was a deffect, one of them with tactical head, but my current monetary situation dont allow me to purchase them. Then my worries will be about tint, since almost all owners said the "cool" version is rather "neutral" and that can be different in next batches.:sigh: (yes, humans need to worry about something... ever :D)

Yes the samples I have all have warm tint (except the 2x123a which is a pre-production sample and has very cool tint), I hope the warm tint doesn't change when I buy one.
 

recDNA

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None of the Quarks are very bright compared to similar Fenix or Jetbeams are they?
 

HKJ

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None of the Quarks are very bright compared to similar Fenix or Jetbeams are they?

Comparing the Quark AA to Fenix LD10, it is below the Fenix on AA and way above on LiIon. The 123 is also about the same as the Fenix P2D.

I have posted some comparative beamshots of Quark AA/123 and some other lights, you can also find these beamshots on my website.
 

jzmtl

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None of the Quarks are very bright compared to similar Fenix or Jetbeams are they?

The difference isn't that big. Quarks are spec'ed at 170 lumen out front (190 for 2x123a) compare to 210ish for bigger fenix on max. I would imagine you'll have 20 minutes or so of extra runtime on max for the lower brightness.

The single AA is designed to run at lower brightness on alkaline and nimh as HKJ mentioned.
 
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