Fenix PD30 "scare"

I was using my PD30 earlier and it just "quit", I started swearing up a storm thinking the worst had happened!

I though somehow my LED blew...

I tossed my extra set of batteries in, thumbed the switch and Voila! it still worked.

I guess it was time to charge the batteries...


I know the driver unit maximizes the battery life but I never expected it to just turn off like that.

Have any of you experienced a similar scare with your first regulated LED light?

Yup, same thing with my P2D. Actually I think it just kinda starting acting a little wacky. Now I use lights with lithium ion cells and I just keep them topped off. I haven't had a light run the battery dead since.

I have a story like that relating to gas in my car, ink in my printer, film in my film camera and propane for my BBQ. It turned out none of them were broken. Who'da thunk.

dont they dim slightly, and then flicker (low voltage warning) before going out? i know mine do....:thinking:

Crenshaw

that's why I like Surefires, HDS/Ra, etc, all of them dim over time and give long enough warning to change batteries.

In my experience, the most likely culprit are protected lithium cells.

Thats why i dont use them. I will rather ruin a set of batteries than have it suddenly drop dark when i need light...

270winchester said:

that's why I like Surefires, HDS/Ra, etc, all of them dim over time and give long enough warning to change batteries.

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Didn't know that surefires suport rechargeable batteries...

WadeF said:

Yup, same thing with my P2D. Actually I think it just kinda starting acting a little wacky. Now I use lights with lithium ion cells and I just keep them topped off. I haven't had a light run the battery dead since.

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Other than that, have you had any real issues with your P2D? I'm considering getting one for myself.

270winchester said:

that's why I like Surefires, HDS/Ra, etc, all of them dim over time and give long enough warning to change batteries.

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I wish Surefire's inca models did that too. They just cut out with no warning.

270winchester said:

that's why I like Surefires, HDS/Ra, etc, all of them dim over time and give long enough warning to change batteries.

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Thats why I like Fenix, perfect regulation. :twothumbs

And please stop comparing Fenix and Surefire, its like comparing an old Harley to a Hayabusa :laughing:

I'm not about to carry a log with me and jot down how many seconds/minutes I've used each mode to see when the battery is gonna die...


I've had no issues with my PD30 at as of yet, when I wake up it goes in my pocket.

I carry it every day, I've gotten it wet (not submerged but dripping), dropped it from an "oh poop!" distance and it works just as it came out of the box.

I'm definitely gonna buy a PD20 (and an extra set of batteries) to keep around as a backup light.

Without scrolling my lazy arse all the way to the top and clicking search or starting a new thread I'm gonna ask a simple question:

1. How long can I keep my Tenergy cells (900mh if that matters) in a charged state?
2. If I fully charge the set thats in my light and then do the same to my second set should I expect them to be fully charged months later when I want to swap them in?

:bow:

i've had lights flicker and act all "quacky" before they quit, and then i've also had lights just abruptly stop working. i think different kinds of batteries (rechargeables, alkalines, lithium) and how many cells (1, 2 or 3) can maybe make a flashlight act differently when they die.

p.s. always carry a spare battery (or set of batteries) with you, then you don't have worry about how much juice is left in your light, 'cause you always know you have at least 100% with you at all times.

exact same thing happened to me with my zebralight h501. Scared me to death. turns out that it ran the cell so dry, my remote would not even want it.

The PD30 has a low battery warning, but as far as I know it's calibrated for primaries. Before flashing the warning it'll run a pair of cells down to around 3.6 volts combined, or 1.8V per cell, which is lethal to RCRs. The protection circuitry on one of the RCR cells would kick in first, and abruptly.

Andrewr05 said:

1. How long can I keep my Tenergy cells (900mh if that matters) in a charged state?
2. If I fully charge the set thats in my light and then do the same to my second set should I expect them to be fully charged months later when I want to swap them in?

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Li-Ions self-discharge at a rate of about 5% per month. You can keep them fully charged indefinitely, but they age faster at higher charge states and storage temperatures. Even unused, a cell kept fully charged at room temperature will irreversibly lose 20% of its capacity per year. Conversely, a cell kept half-charged (3.7V) and refrigerated will only lose 2%.

xenonk said:

The PD30 has a low battery warning, but as far as I know it's calibrated for primaries. Before flashing the warning it'll run a pair of cells down to around 3.6 volts combined, or 1.8V per cell, which is lethal to RCRs. The protection circuitry on one of the RCR cells would kick in first, and abruptly.

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Thanks for the info.

xenonk said:

Li-Ions self-discharge at a rate of about 5% per month. You can keep them fully charged indefinitely, but they age faster at higher charge states and storage temperatures. Even unused, a cell kept fully charged at room temperature will irreversibly lose 20% of its capacity per year. Conversely, a cell kept half-charged (3.7V) and refrigerated will only lose 2%.

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Hmmmm...

Mine are 3V each so about 1.5 should net the longest shelf life without needing a full charge to bring them up to operating voltage, correct?

Andrewr05 said:

Mine are 3V each so ...

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Not exactly. The 3.0v Tenergy cells are actually Li-Ion cells, which start out at 4.2v.

Shows how much I know...

For spares, I always go for lithium primaries as it has a better storage tolerance and longer shelf-life.

I can't remember for sure but I think my P2D got every last drop out of a primary and cut out.

I KNOW my Zebralight H30 does it. I keep a fresh battery where I can grab it in the dark!

I keep at least a fresh pair of primaries in my truck because there are three 2x123 lights in there besides the P2D and P10C2 I carry as edc.

Andrewr05 said:

Mine are 3V each so about 1.5 should net the longest shelf life without needing a full charge to bring them up to operating voltage, correct?

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Battery voltage range doesn't quite work that way. The rating on the cell is closer to the nominal voltage, which you can use to guesstimate the halfway mark for the cell's charge. A 3.7V Li-Ion actually runs from 4.2V fully charged to around 2.5V discharged (any lower and you permanently damage the cell). When the open circuit voltage reads 3.7V, it's about half-charged.

I didn't realize you were talking about LiFePO4 (3V) RCRs. I really wouldn't worry about aging with those. The chemistry is quite a bit different from LiCoO2 (3.7V) Li-Ions. They have a range of 3.6V to 2.0V with the nominal voltage being a bit top-heavy at 3.2V. They age much slower, don't explode when abused, and are far more forgiving of abuse to begin with. The downside is that they hold less energy, at least at first until age negates the advantage a LiCoO2 cell would have.