Mag 3C DD MC-E mod questions?

Been thinking about building 2 of these for a while now but would like input from those that have built them before.
Can you use al reflectors like lightedge or litho sells?Or do you just cut down a stock mag reflector?Is there a difference between the heat sinks that are sold here on CPF or are they all about the same "spec"?Should I be looking for a certain vf in the MC-E I'd be using?I have installed a Kui socket in a hotwire so I know how to cut down a mag switch and solder the wires to the switch.Any and all help would be welcome!
DON

One more question,does the heatsink press fit in the light or do you have to use thermal epoxy or something else to secure it?

The Mag reflector produces minor artifacts in the beam. If you try to focus to the max you get one serious donut hole.
I am using the DX textured reflector but there is a limit how far back the reflector can go without crushing the LED.

Normally lower Vf produces more light but a number of Elektrolumens lights with low Vf MCE have the LEDs burned out. So get the higher Vf MCE, give up a little brightness for reliability. (Elektrolumens in now sourcing high Vf MCE LEDs and/or adding dropping resistors.)

If you use the KD 15mm opening OP reflector or the stock Mag reflector, there is no issue with crushing the LED when bottoming out the reflector. The reflector opening completely clears the P7.

For the MC-E, I don't think there are any specific Vf bins to select. You get what you get. For a P7, you can select the J Vf bin ([email protected]).

For DD, you'll have to solder a bridge to connect all of the MC-E's LED+ terminals together and a second bridge to connect all of the LED- terminals together. Then connect your + and - wires from the Mag switch to the LED. An SSC P7 already comes set up for 4P, so all you need to do is connect the Mag switch to the LED+ and LED- terminals.

If you still want to use an MC-E, then Britelumens sells an MC-E specific Mag heat sink.

The heat sinks are a friction fit. Due to manufacturing variation especially in the Mag tube ID, the fit can be tighter or looser. Depending on the fit and the amount of wire slack/wire springiness, the heat sink could fit nicely or pop up a little. Many mod'ers like to use some thermal paste between the heat sink and Mag tube to optimize thermal contact. If the heat sink doesn't stay in place, you could use a couple small drops of superglue to secure the sink. That should hold it, but be easy enough to break loose if you need to re-work your light for some reason.

Spend $7 on DX and get 2 multimode AMC7135 current regulators. Transplant one chip from one of the boards onto the other to get a 1400ma board and then wire it up like in Download's guide. This way, you won't have to worry about the MC-E's Vf. If you don't want multi modes, just desolder the microcontroller.

lolzertank said:

Spend $7 on DX and get 2 multimode AMC7135 current regulators. Transplant one chip from one of the boards onto the other to get a 1400ma board and then wire it up like in Download's guide. This way, you won't have to worry about the MC-E's Vf. If you don't want multi modes, just desolder the microcontroller.

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I have a lot of lights that use drivers but I think the driver will fail before the emitter that's why I'd like to build a DD light.Kiss theory ya know.Is there much difference between the P7 and MC-E emitters beams,I don't own any P7s YET.
DON

I didn't even see DD in the title. Sorry about that.

Looks like P7 is the way to go to keep it simple.So where can I get a heatsink for the P7 emitter.I guess I can get an emitter from Fred,he always has a nice selection of SSC. Or maybe nailbender will sell me an emitter he has nice warm tinted P7s.
DON
Another question what gauge wire should I use for 3A loads like this and should I get that teflon type wire I see here on CPF?

BTT
You guys are leaving me hanging here.What size wire should I use or should I just contact mudman cj and ask him.
DON

The max I've been able to fit through a KD Mag reflector with a 15mm opening to connect a P7 is Mudman's 22 gauge Teflon stranded wire.

I would get the Teflon wire. Standard PVC jackets are not as tough as Teflon and also tend to shrink/melt back from the heat of the soldering iron tip.

Well I just got the 20 ga from mudman so I'll drill the hole out a little.

How about the heatsink does it slide all the way in or do you adjust the beam by moving it in and out of the body?I'd like the head to screw all the way on tight if posible.
DON

Has anyone tried the al reflectors that we use for the mag hotwires?I have a few of them .
DON

big beam said:

Well I just got the 20 ga from mudman so I'll drill the hole out a little.

How about the heatsink does it slide all the way in or do you adjust the beam by moving it in and out of the body?I'd like the head to screw all the way on tight if posible.
DON

Click to expand...

IIRC, the clearance issue wasn't with the feed holes. As you can see in the photo below, the feed holes are more than big enough to fit 22 ga., which is what is used below. I seem to recall that the issue was clearing the edge of the 15mm reflector opening with the wires. Your 20 ga. could fit. I think that if you trim the Teflon jacket so that the remaining jacket is below the bottom edge of the P7 case, then you can get the exposed wire in as tight as possible to the P7. Then solder that wire to the LED terminals. If you look closely in the photo, I didn't trim quite enough of the Teflon jacket. So when I pressed the wire in tight against the P7, the jacket hits the case. Thus, the wire sticks out by the thickness of the Teflon jacket. Even though that's just a little bit, it could be a critical amount for 20 ga. wire.

The heat sink goes all the way into the Mag tube. There is a lip at the top of the heat sink so that it doesn't just drop all the way inside of the tube.


You can screw the head all the way down but I've found that to get the optimum beam quality, you have to unscrew the head a little to focus the beam. Basically, I get the best beam when the edge of the reflector opening is about even with the top of the heat sink pedestal.

Thanks,that's the info and pic I was looking for.
DON