Malkoff MD2 questions

harkamus

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Heya. I've finally narrowed down which LED flashlight I want to get; it will be my first quality flashlight. I've decided on the MD2, but am concerned I may accidentally scratch the surface of the M60. Where would I obtain a 1 inch lens so I can cover the M60? Also, is the MD2 compatible with the M60 MC-E that has an output of 500ish lumens? Lastly, are there different heads I can buy with crenelations that are compatible with the M60 that comes with the MD2?

Thanks in advance.
 

Dude Dudeson

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I wouldn't even worry about it - the window on the Malkoff is probably just as good or better than anything you'd put on the front, and it seems to be quite far back on the MD2 as well.

I'm awaiting a Malkoff M60 dropin for my 6PL Defender, and I've been debating removing my stock Surefire window for these reasons.

The MD2 is stated to be designed for M60 dropins. Considering it's Malkoff who builds the light, and Malkoff who builds the dropins in question I'd say you're good to go.
 

harkamus

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The MD2 is stated to be designed for M60 dropins. Considering it's Malkoff who builds the light, and Malkoff who builds the dropins in question I'd say you're good to go.

Hmm, so how come I haven't yet read about people putting in the 500 lumen M60 MC-E in an MD2? I mean...portable sun in my hands. :candle: <---pretend the little guy is holding a sun. :D

Or am I missing something and the M60 MC-E requires other modification to the MD2?
 

dirtech

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People, like me, are putting the M60 mce's inside md2s. They are the same size as the regular m60s.
 

Sgt. LED

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Hmm, so how come I haven't yet read about people putting in the 500 lumen M60 MC-E in an MD2?

They are too busy playing with it to take the time to post on CPF about it!
Whining and complaints generate much more press than satisfaction.
The relative silence is a good thing.
 

MrGman

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Hmm, so how come I haven't yet read about people putting in the 500 lumen M60 MC-E in an MD2? I mean...portable sun in my hands. :candle: <---pretend the little guy is holding a sun. :D

Or am I missing something and the M60 MC-E requires other modification to the MD2?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/232644

Start reading. I had put both the MC-E neutral and warm tint units into my MD2, ran them pretty extensively while I was in the process of moving with no problems. I run 2 AW RCR123 batteries keep them topped off in the morning and have a great light. This is a great host with the 2 stage ring.
 

gsxrac

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Im really contemplating purchasing Genes MC-E and the MD4 tailcap/body but I wonder if he'd be willing to sell the MD2 heads seperatley so I dont have to rob the head and high/low off my MD2 and can still have two complete lights. The MC-E and P7 dropins have always interested me but the price and runtime have always held me back. But I think the runtime could be justified with a high/low ring and the price, well, I guess I need to start watching the Marketplace.
 

harkamus

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What kind of run times on "high" can I expect out of an MD2 with an M60 MC-E?
 

dirtech

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What kind of run times on "high" can I expect out of an MD2 with an M60 MC-E?

I ran an MCE warm on high and it quit at 20 minutes, but it would come back on if I hit the switch off then back on. The batteries, which were AW RCR123's read 3.7 after the shut off. The light was quite warm when it shut off so I'm wondering if this is a safety feature so it doesn't overheat. I didn't continue to run it to see how much more time I would get, but I'm sure based on the battery voltage that more time was left. Gene's web sight advertises 45 minutes on 2 cr123 primaries.

I also measured 1.4A on high, while Gene's web site says 1300ma's @ 6V. Does this mean my LEDs have a lower Vf and I can expect hotter temps and lower runtimes? Or, is it because I'm running rcr's with a starting voltage of 4.2V? It is also possible that my DMM, which is a cheap Walmart item, is not completely accurate.
 

harkamus

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2 more questions.

1) This selector ring I keep hearing about, how do you use it and how do you install it? How exactly does it work?

2) Topping off: what does this mean and why do it?
 

dirtech

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2 more questions.

1) This selector ring I keep hearing about, how do you use it and how do you install it? How exactly does it work?

2) Topping off: what does this mean and why do it?

1) the selector ring holds the drop in in place in the md2 head. It screws in very easily with needle nose pliers. The basic md2 comes with a standard aluminum ring that doesn't have two modes. The two mode ring is brass and has a resistor (75ohm) with a detent. When the head is loose, the circuit runs through the resistor via the spring loaded detent thereby lowering output. When the head is tight the resistor is bypassed and your at full power. You have to purchase the two mode ring separately.

2) I believe topping off is referring to charging your batteries before they are completely drained so you can have the full runtime. Also, its good for your lithium ions.
 

MrGman

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I ran an MCE warm on high and it quit at 20 minutes, but it would come back on if I hit the switch off then back on. The batteries, which were AW RCR123's read 3.7 after the shut off. The light was quite warm when it shut off so I'm wondering if this is a safety feature so it doesn't overheat. I didn't continue to run it to see how much more time I would get, but I'm sure based on the battery voltage that more time was left. Gene's web sight advertises 45 minutes on 2 cr123 primaries.

I also measured 1.4A on high, while Gene's web site says 1300ma's @ 6V. Does this mean my LEDs have a lower Vf and I can expect hotter temps and lower runtimes? Or, is it because I'm running rcr's with a starting voltage of 4.2V? It is also possible that my DMM, which is a cheap Walmart item, is not completely accurate.


The "protected" batteries cut out when the voltage dips below a certain threshold. When off most rechargeable batteries recover somewhat. So turning off and back on is no surprise. Its normal. Doesn't mean you shouldn't just stop and recharge the batteries. Has nothing to do with Vf of the actual LED, its in a regulated driver circuit.
Don't worry about the exact current levels. Especially with a cheap meter. Non rechargeable batteries hold more energy than rechargeables do and the amount varies. The advantage of the rechargeable is that you can recharge it. You aren't going to hurt the MC-E by running it up to 20 minutes at a time.

The 2 stage ring replaces the regular module holding ring in the back of the head. You simply screw it in behind the module till the module is very snug, don't torque it down like your life depended on it.

You can then turn the entire head of the MD2 a quarter turn and you will have low mode. Tighten it up fully and you have full power.

Topping off means to recharge the battery without waiting for it to be fully drained or down to the cut off level. To just charge it when you are done using it. Most batteries will last much longer if you don't wait till they are dead or near dead to recharge them. Lots of little recharges instead of a few full power recharges.

Gene will be selling the heads separately at a later date. He is too swamped with orders right now to make the heads available separately. In the long term everything will be available individually and you can pick and choose your own modular system. More top secret accessories are on the way. :sssh:

Run times vary with batteries. I would say 20 minutes with rechargeables to drive an MC-E is about right. roughly 45 minutes with primaries also sounds good but don't expect it to be exact. They will start to fade but won't cut off so you will get more lower level run time and warning to change batteries before it dies.
 

dirtech

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Thanks Mr Gman. It's like you read my email to Gene about the md2 heads being available separately.

The 20 minute runtime then is due to my batteries being drained. Doesn't bother me much though, because I have the two mode ring. I rarely run it on high for more than a couple of seconds as the low mode provides a very usable light for night time strolling. I'm definitely in for an extra md2 head and the md4 body when available.
 

harkamus

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After much more reading, it seems to me that rechargeable batteries are the way to go. I'm sure you read my mind by now, so which batteries are the best for the MD2 with the stock M60 head, and can I use these same batteries in the future should I opt to buy the M60 MC-E head?

I need a charger of course too.:thinking:
 

gsxrac

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Gene will be selling the heads separately at a later date. He is too swamped with orders right now to make the heads available separately. In the long term everything will be available individually and you can pick and choose your own modular system. More top secret accessories are on the way. :sssh:

Hmm I was JUST wondering about the extra heads. I think ultimately the "Build your own flashlight" Should also have the MD4 body and have a choice of ANY drop-in not just the M60's. Now More top secret accessories you say...? Do tell! Or at least let us know what you know :drool:
 

Mikellen

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1) the selector ring holds the drop in in place in the md2 head. It screws in very easily with needle nose pliers. The basic md2 comes with a standard aluminum ring that doesn't have two modes. The two mode ring is brass and has a resistor (75ohm) with a detent. When the head is loose, the circuit runs through the resistor via the spring loaded detent thereby lowering output. When the head is tight the resistor is bypassed and your at full power. You have to purchase the two mode ring separately.


2) I believe topping off is referring to charging your batteries before they are completely drained so you can have the full runtime. Also, its good for your lithium ions.


Should the threads on the Hi/Low bezel selector ring be lubed?
Also should there be some lube on the black thin (rubberized) washer (bezel end)? I assume this black washer goes in front of the LED optic to provide a seal between the optic and inside of the bezel.(Correct)?

Thanks.
 

MrGman

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Should the threads on the Hi/Low bezel selector ring be lubed?
Also should there be some lube on the black thin (rubberized) washer (bezel end)? I assume this black washer goes in front of the LED optic to provide a seal between the optic and inside of the bezel.(Correct)?

Thanks.

you can lube the threads. don't lube the rubber washer.
 
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