Disassembled: Inova T3 for upgrade

Nitroz

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I used the freeze and pop method to open the T3. This is is and interesting optic that is used in the T3 and I will be doing some testing with various LEDs to see what is going to work best for the upgrade.

By looking at the heatsink this could be a little challenge using the newer power LEDs. I might have to fashion a pedestal for the new LED to mount on.

I am at work now, but I will take some pictures of the guts when I am at home later. I will also update as this upgrade progresses.
 

Bimmerboy

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Subscribed! :thumbsup:

Looking forward to this as I have a TIROS T3, and was wondering what to do with it. Hoping a SSC drops right in, and provides a Luxeon-like beam.
 

Nitroz

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Here's the pictures of the light disassembled.

This is the order that the parts go in the light. The right being the first part in and the left being the last part.
dsc0002medium.jpg


The same parts lined up how they would look inside the light.
dsc0009medium.jpg


A closeup of the regulator.
dsc0028medium.jpg


Top view
arcls061medium.jpg


Another side view of parts assembled.
arcls042medium.jpg


One more of the cool plastic lens
dsc0052medium.jpg


More to come once I settle on an LED.
 

yellow

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wonder that the driver looks like new, with all my freeze-pop they got cracked, the led slammed and stuck into the optic, ...

... I'm in the same stage as You are: deciding on led.
Have a T3 bored for 18650 for almost a year now. Not sure if MC-E, or - now - waiting for the new XP-G.

imho skip the original sink + skip the optic (but I dont like optics anyway).
ideal Heatsink = round aluminium plate as thick as possible and in a diameter to be press fit into the body.
+ without the large optic and with a shorter focusing device, 2*18500 could be used to power the mod up. That way even an MC-E is possible, because of enough input voltage for the drivers.
 

Nitroz

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wonder that the driver looks like new, with all my freeze-pop they got cracked, the led slammed and stuck into the optic, ...

... I'm in the same stage as You are: deciding on led.
Have a T3 bored for 18650 for almost a year now. Not sure if MC-E, or - now - waiting for the new XP-G.

imho skip the original sink + skip the optic (but I dont like optics anyway).
ideal Heatsink = round aluminium plate as thick as possible and in a diameter to be press fit into the body.
+ without the large optic and with a shorter focusing device, 2*18500 could be used to power the mod up. That way even an MC-E is possible, because of enough input voltage for the drivers.

I did a bunch of quick freezes instead of really long ones. I remember hearing that someone had done the T3 and it had cracked.

I am going to play with the XP-E and the XP-G if I can get one. I don't really want to use the Seoul LED because I am tired of using those for mods, I want something new and brighter.

Good luck with your mods!
 

Nitroz

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I did some testing with a Q5 XP-E and the T3 optic, it looks very promising. The optic fits completely over the XP-E LED and focuses really well, I would take pictures but all I have is my camera phone and it's just not worth it with that.

The next part is operating on the heat sink and getting the height correct.

One tough decision is do I wait for the XP-G, or use either the cool white Q5 or the neutral white q3 in this one.:banghead:
 
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Nitroz

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I have a T1 and T2 Tiros that will be getting the XP-E neutral tint. I have also polished the bezel on the T3. I think I will keep the stock board because of the nice flat runtime.

I was waiting on the XP-E boards to reflow the neutral XP-Es to, and when I received them from Kai they were XR-E boards.:hairpull:

Here's some bling of the polished bezel.
bezel2.jpg

bezelv.jpg

bezel3.jpg
 

Illum

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the inova optic is designed for the luxeon die...I know because CREE + TIROs sucked:shakehead

Ones I tried that works
Luxeon K2
Luxeon I
Luxeon III
SSC P4

Ones I'd consider passing
CREE XR-C

Ones I'd not consider
CREE XR-E
CREE MCE
 

Nitroz

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the inova optic is designed for the luxeon die...I know because CREE + TIROs sucked:shakehead

Ones I tried that works
Luxeon K2
Luxeon I
Luxeon III
SSC P4

Ones I'd consider passing
CREE XR-C

Ones I'd not consider
CREE XR-E
CREE MCE

The K2 is nice but to get alot out of it you need to push it, the stock board at 700mA just isn't going to cut it, hence the reason why I am going to use the XP-E.

The stock board is a good match for the XP-E. I will work on some beam shots of the XP-E tonight if I can.

The stock optic would not fit over the XR-E ring I imagine, and I'm sure that would look awful. With the XP-E the optic sits over the LED and works quite well.
 
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Illum

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The stock board is a good match for the XP-E. I will work on some beam shots of the XP-E tonight if I can.

I don't have an XPE sample or I'll test it for you:candle:

TIROs on a CREE yields a bunch of concentric rings with a near aspheric projection of the XRE die in the middle...:green:
the XR-C works because the quare die works out as a "pinpoint" hotspot:shakehead


On second thought the Lux V works great...the MCE though has these werd artifacts
 

Nitroz

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I don't have an XPE sample or I'll test it for you:candle:

TIROs on a CREE yields a bunch of concentric rings with a near aspheric projection of the XRE die in the middle...:green:
the XR-C works because the quare die works out as a "pinpoint" hotspot:shakehead


On second thought the Lux V works great...the MCE though has these werd artifacts


So what LED do you have in your Inova now?
 

Illum

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So what LED do you have in your Inova now?

I freeze popped my XO3, somewhere along the line the driver died [probably during the boiling part when freezing didn't force the driver board out]

I've just tested different LEDs while holding the TIROS in my hand :)
 

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