Good maintenance light that isn't condusive to an oops arc flash?

It's has been ages since I last visited this site and technology has changed ALOT in the past 2-3 years since I was last checking on the site regularly! I work on HVAC equipment at a local University and the Safety Director isn't to impressed by the flashlights that I use (a moded MM and an L2D) because of their metal cases.

Specifics that I would like to get in a new work torch are:

1. NOT a headlamp. I'll end up with a Zebralight soon enough but I want a belt EDC as well.
2. A light that isn't condusive to an arc flash , for when I'm poking around and in an interior/exterior panel box checking out why something won't run and I need to have the system power on to check for voltage.

3. Low mode around 15-25L, High mode around 50L+. Other modes such as Moon, Medium, Turbo or Strobe/SOS would be great but not required.

4. AA's with extended run time if possible.

5. Atractive enough to elicit ooh's and ahh's for the coeds and female co-workers who appreciate a maintenance guy having a decent work light. :laughing:

The problem is you can't really have high output polymer lights because they cannot dissipate the heat generated from the LED.

If non-conductive is the issue, remind him that anodizing is non-conductive. Also, you can put a rubber bike innertube over the light to make it completely non-conductive. It also adds grip, and actually looks pretty good.

For a single mode light, the SteamLight Propoly is pretty good, though very outdated.

Streamlight has a couple of models that might work, though not AA.

The PolyStinger has three levels, is 185lm, and is well regulated. Its also rechargeable so the battery format wouldn't be as much of an issue.

The PolyTac is a newer light from Streamlight. Its a polymer body light but is single mode and uses lithium cells. Its also 120lm so it might be too bright for close-up work.

The PolyStinger would probably work well for you. Its versatile, durable, has high output when needed, and is cost effective to use.

-Michael

Aluminum oxide is non-conductive, so something anodized wouldn't arc... but that property is only as good as the anodize integrity.

I like the idea of putting a rubber on the light, though. Bring a camera to catch the expression on the director's face.

How about a surefire G2 with this drop in? Its a cinch to ramp up the levels with a G2, i have this exact configuration and like it a lot.

Not sure if nitrolon is conductive or not, someone here can probably answer that.

The princeton tec amp 4/5 are plastic body, multilevel with at least 50 lumen on high and use AA batteries.

I'm afraid that the director wont approve the rubber tube as good enough protection because it wont completely cover the light and gets easily punctured. The same goes for the anodization, so you pretty much have to get the plastic light if you want to make the safety man happy. :devil:

Crazy thought, but what about using that rubberized dip stuff that you can get at hardware stores for coating tool handles on an aluminum light? There would be some work involved (complete disassembly + masking all the surfaces, threads, etc that you didn't want coated) but I would imagine it would do a pretty good job. http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip
That one specifically lists shock resistance as an intended use and they rate it at 1400 v/mil.

Here are a couple ideas from the top of my head:

-Surefire G3 with a sleeve to hold 2AA's and a dropin (preferably multimode I guess) which will run on 2-3 volts

-Look among the polymer LED lights (mostly divelights, making them also suitable for explosion hazard / higly flammable environments) from Underwater Kinetics, Pelican, Princeton Tec, Streamlight etc. I think most of them are single mode. aim for 20-30 lumens, more can get annoying up close, less is not bright enough at a distance. These are not pretty, they are not multimode, but they all have models that run on AA's AFAIK, they are polymer and they are waterproof, airtight and basically bombproof.

This Brinkman might be worth a try - cheap enough.
Only one level though, 65 lumens, supposed to last 2 hours.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=237106

I've made inner tube sleeves for several lights. This decreases heat dissipation, though. If that would be a problem, perhaps shrinking tube is better in this regard, as it is thinner. Haven't tried it myself.

Good luck.

Re: arc flash

When you're working on HVAC gear... 220 VAC or 480 3 phase? Some of the polyolefin shrink tubing can take up to 600 V which would get you by for 220, otherwise I'd look at a Streamlight Propoly or SF G2 or 8NX nitrolon lights if you're working around 480.

PS

For a maintenance light you might want to consider a warmer temp led. You'll get better color color rendition with reds and browns, useful in identifying the difference between hydraulic and oil leaks. Good luck! :thumbsup:

Check out the Nitecore D10 http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=93&products_id=709. It has many levels of output and advertises that the light is safe in a situation were an arc might be a concern. It's design is quite different than most other lights and is probably the closest thing to filling your needs. It is a favorite around here.

Mr. Tone said:

Check out the Nitecore D10 http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=93&products_id=709. It has many levels of output and advertises that the light is safe in a situation were an arc might be a concern. It's design is quite different than most other lights and is probably the closest thing to filling your needs. It is a favorite around here.

Click to expand...

They are talking about arc from flashlight switch in explosive atmosphere, although I think it's nothing more than marketing gimmick, they have no certification to back it up either.

jzmtl said:

They are talking about arc from flashlight switch in explosive atmosphere, although I think it's nothing more than marketing gimmick, they have no certification to back it up either.

Click to expand...

I reread the first post and just realized he is talking about an arc from conducting electricity in a fuse panel and not from the flashlight. My bad.

How about a Streamlight Survivor LED? 4AA with division 1 and 2 approvals 2 outputs and flash. Tough and rt angle when stood up. I use mine all the time not the smallest 4AA but certainly one of the best. Safety guy should be thrilled. A D-cell 2nd choice could be a Fulton rt angle or 2 or 3 cell straight light almost all the fultons are approved lights

I use a Brinkman Maxfire LX at work with a Solarforce 5 Mode drop in. I mostly work with low voltage equipment but once In awhile I will also work with high voltage. A Surefire G2 will just as well with a similar drop in.
The only thing that I'm not happy with in my setup is that I can't use 18650 batteries. I'm thinking about modding this light in order to solve that.

jzmtl said:

They are talking about arc from flashlight switch in explosive atmosphere, although I think it's nothing more than marketing gimmick, they have no certification to back it up either.

Click to expand...

Which is useless on the D10 because its not UL approved

Hi guys, thanks for all the replies. I had an Arc flash happen a few weeks ago when I was checking on an old closet unit and absentmindedly touched the hot side of a contact with my T5-600 probe first and the contact had a metal band that kept the cover on. Even though the second probe was nowhere near anything there was enough voltage to arc to the 1st probe test lead and short to ground.

I checked with 4-7's customer service and all their lights would meet my requirements. Right up until they got scratched up enough that the anodizing would have a potential issue with conductivity so I want to stay away from the metal hosts least my natural good looks get damaged. All the coeds and female workers would be if that happened.

AA's are required because work supplies AA's and the idiots I work with tend to borrow my lights when we are working on a project together and then leave the torch on even if they go out for a cigarette break. CR123's would be way to expensive to burn with these guys. :shakehead.

Work is buying me this little beauty http://www.batteryjunction.com/o1fj-ld34.html because it's a dive light, cheap and works on AA's. I'm going to look into all the suggestions and then find a nicer EDC and keep the work one as a back up. Thanks again for all the suggestions. lovecpf