Anyone take apart the Eagletac M2C4?

tebore · Jul 29, 2009

I've seen the M2XC4 taken apart here
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2956552&postcount=19

However I've been searching online to see how the P7 is mounted in the light.

Has anyone taken it apart at the head?

nakahoshi · Jul 29, 2009

I was about to say "I did!" but you beat me to it. It was a huge pain but I think the P7 might be easier. Good Luck
-Bobby

tebore · Jul 29, 2009

nakahoshi said:
I was about to say "I did!" but you beat me to it. It was a huge pain but I think the P7 might be easier. Good Luck
-Bobby

What made it so difficult? I'm curious because I'm thinking of a SST90 or SST50 equipped M2. The driver seems easy enough to get to. I'm sure with a bit of analysis the sense resistor can be swapped to get 3.2A out of it.

nakahoshi · Jul 29, 2009

Unscrewing the head was the hardest part, I had one Rubber strap around the part that's under the control ring, and another on the upper part of the head. It took forever to break the glue or whatever they use. I had trouble gripping the lower part because i could not get the lube off of the selector ring area, I had to clean and clean to get it off.

Once it budged, it turned smooth and came apart easily, but getting it back on was impossible. I think with your single emitter reflector, You would be able to reassemble the light without issue.

I cant believe i am the only one who has opened up one of the M2 Lights:shrug:

-Bobby

tebore · Jul 29, 2009

nakahoshi said:
Unscrewing the head was the hardest part, I had one Rubber strap around the part that's under the control ring, and another on the upper part of the head. It took forever to break the glue or whatever they use. I had trouble gripping the lower part because i could not get the lube off of the selector ring area, I had to clean and clean to get it off.

Once it budged, it turned smooth and came apart easily, but getting it back on was impossible. I think with your single emitter reflector, You would be able to reassemble the light without issue.

I cant believe i am the only one who has opened up one of the M2 Lights:shrug:

-Bobby

I see you got the reflector out. Can you access the emitters by removing the SS bezel and dropping everything out that way?

nakahoshi · Jul 30, 2009

tebore said:
I see you got the reflector out. Can you access the emitters by removing the SS bezel and dropping everything out that way?

The Reflector doesn't come out that way, the head is sealed besides the Bezel Ring. You can unscrew it, it wont do anything.

tebore · Jul 30, 2009

nakahoshi said:
The Reflector doesn't come out that way, the head is sealed besides the Bezel Ring. You can unscrew it, it wont do anything.

Thanks! This is all great info. It's helping me plan out a mod.

tebore · Aug 21, 2009

nakahoshi said:
Unscrewing the head was the hardest part, I had one Rubber strap around the part that's under the control ring, and another on the upper part of the head. It took forever to break the glue or whatever they use. I had trouble gripping the lower part because i could not get the lube off of the selector ring area, I had to clean and clean to get it off.

Once it budged, it turned smooth and came apart easily, but getting it back on was impossible. I think with your single emitter reflector, You would be able to reassemble the light without issue.

I cant believe i am the only one who has opened up one of the M2 Lights:shrug:

-Bobby

Did you happen to notice what kind of glue/thread lock is used to seal the head? Did you have to boil it?

nakahoshi · Aug 21, 2009

tebore said:
Did you happen to notice what kind of glue/thread lock is used to seal the head? Did you have to boil it?

There was some kind of thread lock but it was not that much. No boiling just pure muscle :ironic::nana:
I tried it for a few hours at night, and gave up. Woke up and tried again and It finally budged. There is an O-Ring that really makes it hard to turn. I Used 2 rubber strap wrenches from Lowes, it was a PAIN.

-Bobby

tebore · Aug 21, 2009

Hmm I guess I'll just have to reclean the area because the wrench keeps slipping. I might give it a quick freeze'n'boil to help break up the seal.

neoseikan · Aug 22, 2009

Anyone have the clickie tailcap of M2 series?

berry580 · Aug 22, 2009

any pics?

thx

neoseikan · Aug 22, 2009

berry580 said:
any pics?

thx

I mentioned it because they talked about it in the Ads. And I am quite interested in the structure. I have not seen the pics too.

tebore · Sep 6, 2009

I finally got apart my M2C4. There was a locking compound on the threads. It's a type of red epoxy or red RTV.

The light seems like a good candidate for a SST50 or SST90 upgrade. I will try to get the circuit out of the head and upload pictures soon.

tebore · Sep 6, 2009

Current measurements at the LED

0.08A Low
0.43A Med
1.24A Hi
2.78A Turbo

My meter has a -/+ 5% Margin of error.

The P7 Heatsink area is unannodized (Unfortunately).

There's a trim pot on the driver board it seems to only adjust all levels other than Turbo.

tebore · Sep 6, 2009

Further observation on the driver board shows a 0.033ohm resistor in series that I assume is a sense resistor. If that's the case then I should need a 0.025ohm 1% 1 watt resistor to increase current to 3.2A.

And using the adjustment pot I should be able to keep the lower levels the same or close to it.

You're going to have to excuse the quality of my pictures I was using my N95 as I didn't have my SLR set up and ready to go.

Armed_Forces · Sep 6, 2009

Awesome shot of those batteries!

tebore · Sep 6, 2009

Armed_Forces said:
Awesome shot of those batteries!

I really should have had my SLR ready. I just figured it would be a fun Sunday project. I've learned some interesting things about the light.

csshih · Sep 6, 2009

neoseikan said:
I mentioned it because they talked about it in the Ads. And I am quite interested in the structure. I have not seen the pics too.

here ya go.

DimeRazorback · Sep 6, 2009

Thanks for the pics!

:thumbsup:

Anyone take apart the Eagletac M2C4?

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