LX2 head available separately?

b223

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Is surefire selling the Lx2 head unit separately yet?

If not, does anyone know if they plan to?

Is it possible to buy a stock E2E body by itself some where?

I would like to buy an E2E body and place an LX2 head on it so it functions with a single output only.

I rather not have to buy 2 lights and then swap parts.

Thanks!
 

OfficerCamp

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that the head controls the UI of the light, not the body. In which case no matter what body you put the LX2 head on, you would still have dual output potential. Like I said, I could be way off base though. Also, if I recall correctly, 4Sevens stated that manufacturers very rarely offer head only purchase options, as they do not sell as well as full light setups.
 
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Call SureFire and ask for a price on just the bezel.

Peterson is right. It's just the tail cap that needs to be changed to get a single-mode.
 
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Petersen

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Without the Tailcap resistor, a LX2 Head should work as a single mode (same as depresssing the TC fully)
 

b223

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Without the Tailcap resistor, a LX2 Head should work as a single mode (same as depresssing the TC fully)

So, I could buy the LX2, and then switch out the tailcap, and get a single out put light. Sweet.

What surefire tailcap would be compatible with the LX2 that I could switch it out for?

Thanks!
 
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b223

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that the head controls the UI of the light, not the body. In which case no matter what body you put the LX2 head on, you would still have dual output potential. Like I said, I could be way off base though. Also, if I recall correctly, 4Sevens stated that manufacturers very rarely offer head only purchase options, as they do not sell as well as full light setups.

That's what I thought too until someone corrected me.

From my thread here:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/237669

The LX2 bezel uses the difference created by the resistor in the LX2 TailCap to switch to the low output mode. Otherwise the LX2 operates in it's 'high output mode'.

Since the LX2 bezel has "E-Series" threads it can be mated with a standard E-Series body such as the L4 or E2e body. Given that these standard E-Series bodies do not feature the LX2's TailCap with it's resistor'd path, the only path available to the LX2 bezel on a normal E-Series body is the main, or high output.
 

OfficerCamp

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Well I'll be.......
That's a pretty unique way to handle multiple output. Thanks for the correction 223! Does this method of switching have any benefits? I imagine it's just more parts to screw up and more maintainence to keep things running smoothly. If my feelings are correct, it stands to reason to apply this light in a single output fashion. Good luck with your head hunting :thumbsup:.
oh wait, I just got that!:lolsign:
 

zven

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So, I could by the LX2, and then switch out the tailcap, and get a single out put light. Sweet.

What surefire tailcap would be compatible with the LX2 that I could switch it out for?

Thanks!

Theoretically, yeah, switching the tailcap to something non-resistored would work. However, to my knowledge, the tailcap of the LX2 (and L1, A2, etc.) is a unique size, and no other UI designs were ever implemented in this size. So back to square one: if you wan't a different UI, you'll need a different tailcap, which means you'll need a different body (e.g., an E2E).

I don't think I've ever heard of SF selling either LX2 heads or E2E bodies by themselves, but it couldn't hurt to call. Otherwise, check the MarketPlace here - there's a pretty steady exchange of parts such as these (well, might be hard to find just the LX2 head).

All that said, is the LX2 UI really all that bad? If you're okay with momentary/twisty, you should never need to use the low mode if you don't want to: just press all the way on momentary, and twist all the way on constant. Nothing to say you have to stop at a half-press or half-twist.

Of course, if you're set on having a single mode clicky, then you'll want to go ahead with your lego. Easiest for that, I think, would be to buy the two separate lights, put them together yourself, and then sell the extras on the MarketPlace. For best resale value, I'd recommend getting an LX2 and L4, so that the extra light to re-sell would be a 2-stage L4.
 

b223

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Theoretically, yeah, switching the tailcap to something non-resistored would work. However, to my knowledge, the tailcap of the LX2 (and L1, A2, etc.) is a unique size, and no other UI designs were ever implemented in this size. So back to square one: if you wan't a different UI, you'll need a different tailcap, which means you'll need a different body (e.g., an E2E).

I don't think I've ever heard of SF selling either LX2 heads or E2E bodies by themselves, but it couldn't hurt to call. Otherwise, check the MarketPlace here - there's a pretty steady exchange of parts such as these (well, might be hard to find just the LX2 head).

All that said, is the LX2 UI really all that bad? If you're okay with momentary/twisty, you should never need to use the low mode if you don't want to: just press all the way on momentary, and twist all the way on constant. Nothing to say you have to stop at a half-press or half-twist.

Of course, if you're set on having a single mode clicky, then you'll want to go ahead with your lego. Easiest for that, I think, would be to buy the two separate lights, put them together yourself, and then sell the extras on the MarketPlace. For best resale value, I'd recommend getting an LX2 and L4, so that the extra light to re-sell would be a 2-stage L4.

I'm planning to weapon mount the light, so for that purpose, yes, the LX2 UI would be bad for me. In a weapon light, a single high output would be the only way to go.

Seeing as the LX2 is brighter than the VTAC surefire L4 with KX2C head, it would be nice if I could get an LX2 with high output only.
 
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Well, give that you don't cycle the modes, you just press right through one, it wouldn't be as bad as a normal multi-mode.
 

Size15's

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I'm planning to weapon mount the light, so for that purpose, yes, the LX2 UI would be bad for me. In a weapon light, a single high output would be the only way to go.

Seeing as the LX2 is brighter than the VTAC surefire L4 with KX2C head, it would be nice if I could get an LX2 with high output only.
I wonder whether the difference in output in use is really enough to be concerned about? I very much doubt after a few nights low-light training using the VTAC-L4 (KX2C) you'll be left wishing that if only it was just a little bit brighter it would have obviously increase your low-light performance...

Just to be clear: The LX2 bezel is not designed to be used as a single-output bezel on a standard E-Series two-SF123A body. As a result SureFire will not be offering the LX2 bezel separately.
Also, there is no TailCap for the LX2 (etc) that only offers a single output level (either from SureFire or the aftermarket AFAIK).

IMHO Seems like chasing lumens to me...
 

Blindasabat

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AFAI have seen SF typically prices the bezels that are available close to the price of the complete light. But since they are likely not to sell the LX2 bezel itself anyway, if you buy a full LX2, I will buy the body & TC off you for a reasonable price. I would like at least the body if somebody else wants the TC.
 

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IMHO Seems like chasing lumens to me...

I've yet to encounter a scenario while training where the "120" lumens from the E2DL weren't overkill.

Maybe when combining Murphy with the real world a situation might arise.

I would have to agree with Size15 that going through this much trouble for that small increase in light might be unnecessary.

SureFire will be releasing a 350 lumen LED weapon light in the future so keep your eyes out for that if you need it!
 

b223

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I've yet to encounter a scenario while training where the "120" lumens from the E2DL weren't overkill.

Maybe when combining Murphy with the real world a situation might arise.

I would have to agree with Size15 that going through this much trouble for that small increase in light might be unnecessary.

SureFire will be releasing a 350 lumen LED weapon light in the future so keep your eyes out for that if you need it!

350 surefire lumens seems like it might be a bit much when doing room clearing without some kind of diffuser. White walls bounce back a lot of light.

I have an incan wolf eyes 9A that I use for my handheld while on duty, rated at over 200 lumens, and it screws up my night vision at times while clearing a building.

Hmmm... maybe the VTAC L4 is enough for me after all. :thinking:
 

DimeRazorback

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I agree with a previous post that the cost of the bezel would probably be very close to that of the whole light!

Maybe even more for spliting one away :p

:laughing:
 
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