Problems with SF L1??

I just picked up a SF L1 and noticed when I turn the tail cap switch, it doesn't turn on sometimes. Is this a common problem with the L1? I have to twist it a couple of time before it kicks on. It feels like there's a connection shorting out at the threads.

Mine had this problem and SureFire replaced it.

Appreciate the info. I think I'll place a call to SF and get mine replaced as well. I wonder if it was a bad batch?

the older tailcap which is slightly shorter and has channels milled around the knurled portion supposedly has a few problems which is fixed in the newer version tailcap /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I don't see the channels you speak of. Did the older model tailcaps have the newer bezel?

if i'm not wrong, the L1 only comes with the non-scalloped bezel. i'm not too sure though, so don't take my word for it.

the channels i refer to is the shallow milled area around the knurled section of the tailcap...you can see it in this photo, courtesy of geoffchan:



newer one is on the left, older one is on the right. hope that helped! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The thing is that more changes continue to be made to these models and it isn't simple to say that one without the channels is the latest version. In terms of looks perhaps.

Al

I just received the updated tail switch for the L1. I had called Surefire customer service about the o-ring being exposed and very little threads left when locked out. The new tail switch locks out fine. The problem is that the inside diameter of the tail switch is oversized and doesn't contact the o-ring. It is loose as a goose (no resistance) and I have no confidence that it will stay locked out or even stay on the flashlight, if carried in your pocket. The spring is also VERY LOUD. I'll have to call Surefire Monday.
oldgrandpajack

Oldgrandpajack,

You should have gotten a thicker O-ring with the new tailswitch; oops!

- Don

al: i was informed one of the changes to the newer tailcap was that it was made longer to prevent the metal tabs inside from being broken due to over-tightening, so i suppose one of the common characteristics of all the newer tailcaps would be the slightly increased length. perhaps someone in possession of both version tailcaps could take some measurements?

[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
Oldgrandpajack,

You should have gotten a thicker O-ring with the new tailswitch; oops!

- Don

[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks Don! Found the fat O-Ring on floor. Must have dropped out of mailer when I opened it. I'll get back with the results later.

LATER: Fat O-ring did the trick. The spring is still loud though.
oldgrandpajack

I don't have more then one A2. I only have one pocket assigned to incandescent SureFires.

Al

I noticed that when I rotate the tailcap one rotation from the on position it's real close to coming off. I'm about one rotation from the tail cap coming off completely. I compared my tail cap to the one posted and I have the more recent design. Is there a third version out there?

I just started having problems with my L1. I will be calling SureFire today to see what to do about it.

Sometimes it comes on, sometimes it doesn't. The low beam doesn't usually work and when it does, it's much lower than it should be. Yesterday, I was using it for about 25 minutes and the low beam just quit working altogether. I let the light sit for 3 or 4 hours and it sorta worked, but was almost unnoticable.

My serial # is A00124, so it's my guess that it's one of the first off the line.

I've got # 00006, so mine rolled off the line even before yours did. I have the "old style" tailcap. Between lock-out and total removal of the tailcap is about 1 full turn. The O-ring does not appear to be exposed until about 1/4 of a turn counterclockwise (loosening) past lock-out position (the round marking on the tailcap lining up with the semicircular notch in the body).

I haven't had any problems with my particular L1 and I was going to give it an excellent rating on my website; maybe I just got lucky with mine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

UPDATE: SureFire is sending a new tail cap. I'm not convinced that's what will fix it, but now it will only do the low beam and I can't check to see if the battery is shot since my SF batteries from my E2e won't even go into the cylinder. The one that's in there now is a tight fit and just barely eeks out when the tailcap is removed and gets stuck on the upper roll.

I will have to try another battery when I get home. If my other SF batteries won't go into the cylinder, I will have to get an RMA and get them to look at it.

[ QUOTE ]
... if i'm not wrong, the L1 only comes with the non-scalloped bezel. i'm not too sure though, so don't take my word for it. ...

[/ QUOTE ]

I bought an L1 about six weeks ago and it has the scalloped bezel on it. No problems with the L1... except for the time I dropped it and cracked the Pyrex. SF took care of me though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

-Jim

Beretta1526,

One way to bypass the tailcap and check if the batteries still work is to short out the neg end of the battery and the battery tube, where the threads are. Just use a paper clip or something conductive.

-YC

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Beretta1526 said:
If my other SF batteries won't go into the cylinder, I will have to get an RMA and get them to look at it.

[/ QUOTE ]

All of the new SureFire batteries should fit. At some point the battery labels were changed from a thicker label to a thinner one. I found this out the hard way too.

Skid

OK,

I had a chance to mess with it a little.

The "low only" was because it was going into "moon mode" and it's giving it all the juice it has. I put in a new battery with the same date on it and it fits snugly, but have not tried NEW ones with the 2013/2014 dates yet.

I am, however, still having problems where it has no low and goes right to high, so hopefully the new tailcap will fix it.