NiteCore EX10 plunger fussiness

Greetings:

I have been EDC-ing a Smart PD EX10 for a few months. It was an improvement over a Fenix P2D. While the size of the Fenix was great, I found the fact that it turned on in low mode annoying since I usually wanted medium. So having to always give an extra tap to get the desired level wasn't a show stopper, but enough to motivate me to find something that would turn on to exactly the desired level.

A forward clicky with programmability and level memorization would be ideal here, since I like momentary operation.

But I went with the Nitecore EX10, mainly because it was also one of the few lights available in an R2 bin.

I'm mostly happy with the Nitecore EX10. The size is almost impossible to beat. (The new Fenix PD20 is a disappointment here.) The brightness on high is great for impressing friends, but usually setting it to a medium level is satisfactory for 99% of needs. The low low level is also a nice improvement over Fenix.

The only problem is that the plunger is sometimes acting up. I press it and it won't stay on when released. Unless I really lay into it for a second. Since when it is working correctly I am conditioned to expect that it will latch on with just a quick tap, this behavior causes me to waste time. Usually but not always after it does this, it returns to normalcy after several firm cycles on/off.

This is a minor problem. But it does have me considering if there is still something better. That something will have to compete reasonably well with EX10's size however.

I'm looking at the Liteflux LF3 XT (no R2, but maybe I can tolerate that).

Any other contenders?

The Quark tactical may also be worthwhile. Unlike the Quark AA, which is way bigger than the AA Nitecore (I have both for candles at home), the Quark 123 is respectably sized at just slightly larger than the EX10. Though I don't like the fact that I can't easily ramp up the level if needed, and the head twist mechanism of the Quark is quite stiff.

The NiteCore has quite a useful UI that will be hard to improve upon. If it only would make up it's mind to stay on.

Don't worry - it should be easy enough to fix. This sort of problem is usually caused by a sticky split ring.

There are some good instructions on how to clean and lubricate the EX10 in this thread, and loads more info and photos in Selfbuilt's excellent review.

you might want to clean under the contact in the head.

See the brass ring? look underneath it, you will see the PCB contact point. its possible that crud has built up there for some reason. Be careful though.

the quark is barely larger then the Ex10 at all. The tail boot of the tactical is extends slightly more, but other then that. Ive had no problems getting used to quark 123A as my edc when my ex10 stopped working properly (due to my own rather than the light itself)

I will agree thou, that its hard to beat the ex10 if you really like its UI. Perhaps you can try the Lf2x? which im beginning to feel is the AAA PD that was never made.

Crenshaw

Well there are a lot of options - but if you like the EX10 UI I would think about the Liteflux LF3XT. It is bigger than the EX10 but smaller than a Novatac 120/85P. From pictures it appears to be almost exactly the same size as the Quark 123. The compact user interface on the LF3XT is similar to the EX10 - three levels including user defined, minimum and maximum. User defined ramps up and down with a press and hold of the switch. Double click to toggle to low (which is really low - almost as low as the Novatac) and click + press for toggle to maximum. Then double click or click/press to toggle back to user defined (i.e. it remembers the user set level) unlike the EX10. It has momentary capabilities but I don't like the way it works as it flashes when you turn on the light regularly (compared to the Novatac I understand the limits here design wise but like how Novatac implemented it better than LF).

And that is the compact interface - you can also program it should you desire for the full interface to have from 1-5 separately programmed stages. Any brightness, strobe, beacon or SOS is available. I have mine programmed as a basic three stage light as well but with memory off so it always starts on lowest low (compact interface always starts at the user defined level). I may change that eventually - who knows.

It has a lot of variability and flexibility - and while not quite the light for me as the Novatac - it is an excellent light that is nearly as flexible and is smaller.

And it is RCR123 compatible (including a cool battery meter built in) with overdischarge protection.

No R2 bin (yet) but my example at least compared to my R2 EX10 is not that different white wall hunting and not really noticeable in use.

The only issue I have with it is that the stock tailcap would benefit from some beveling - however the replacement cap has a removable clip and is beveled and I'd recommend getting that one.

Oh yes - and you can also use the LF3XT with a 2xAA body if you want as well. It is, as I've already alluded to, a very flexible light.

ETA: The LF3XT switch is very very different from the PD system. I personally find it to be more tactile than the PD system which I agree is a bit flaky and requires just the right amounts of lubrication, etc.. to work properly. It is not as tactile as the HDS/Novatac buttons, but mine is pretty definite in terms of when it hits and doesn't - but I'm lead to believe some variation exists among some samples...