I think I have fixed my "slippery Arc6" problem.

fyrstormer · Sep 1, 2009

Maybe it's just me, but compared to the raw-machined surface on my McGizmos, I've always found the smooth anodized surface on my Arc6 to be slippery and hard to hold while pressing the tail switch for long periods of time. Someone suggested wrapping paracord around the light, but I wanted something more "integrated" with the body of the light, something that wouldn't move around. I've been on the lookout for a good solution for a while, and I believe I've finally found one.

The grip I've added is constructed of 6x #13 O-rings from the plumbing supplies section at Home Depot, slid into the grooves on the body and superglued in place using 18 drops of fingernail superglue (6 per O-ring, 3 per side, 120 degrees apart) applied using the tip of a sharpened paperclip. It was allowed to dry for 24 hours before use, to ensure the superglue wouldn't let go. (fingernail superglue holds stronger than Krazy Glue, but dries a LOT slower on some surfaces.) Then I bent the clip using pliers and a vise, to allow sufficient clearance for the edge of my jeans pocket to clear the O-rings without too much fuss.

Verdict: it's much, much easier to hold onto now. I don't find myself washing the thing every third time I use it because my hand is slipping across the surface anymore. I can hold the tail switch on High until my thumb gets tired without it budging at all. Would mod again.

fyrstormer · Sep 3, 2009

Man...64 views and nobody signed the guestbook...

fyrstormer · Sep 10, 2009

Well, I have since played with it in the shower and run it through the washing machine and dryer to no ill effect, so it seems the superglue is holding well. Superglue tends to either hold forever or let go almost immediately, for some reason. In an application like this, it's essential to apply it perfectly, so that there is an even bead of glue along the entire joint, because it's so brittle that it will start to crack apart if a single spot on one of the O-rings is less-secure and is able to flex more than the rest. It looks like I did it right, because it's still nice and solid.

Somebody care dammit!

AMRaider · Sep 10, 2009

Glad your mod is working out for you.

My hands tend towards the small size, so even without the guard, the Arc6 is pretty secure in my hand. I have both sleeves, so I might switch to the guarded version in the future, but for now I like the no-guard version because it is less bulky in the pocket.

From what I have seen here on CPF, the Arc6 is a rather uncommon light. Many folks (especially in these times) either can't afford the $200 - $250 for an Arc6 (used or new), or would simply prefer a cheaper light for their needs. Perhaps this is the reason for the lack of replies :shrug:.

The Arc6 does come with some very cool feaures (as you probably already know). For starters, the Arc6 uses some very high grade materials: 6Al-4V Ti for the bezel and clip, and Sapphire for the lens. The piston drive/kilroy switching mechanism is very reliable and provides a good environmetal seal from the elements; the ability to activate the light by turning the head provides users with another method of operation. The driver and UI offers users the choice of making their light simple (one level) or complex (up to 3 levels) and it is compatible with primary and secondary cells; with RCR123's, the Arc6 is one of the brightest in it's class. The Arc 6 also has NO parasitic drain when the light is turned off (For me, this is a HUGE plus). Lastly, the Arc 6 is manufactured in the United States with a high level of quality (It has never failed on me, and it seems to wear better than a lot of other lights I have owned).

The cool features of course, add significantly to the cost of the light. Some folks may not consider them cool, or to them it is simply not worth the price, which I can understand. $250 will cover a month's worth of groceries and gasoline. (That's what it costs me, your mileage may vary of course). I consider myself very fortunate to carry one. I'm glad other folks can appreciate the light as well.

Matteblack · Sep 10, 2009

Okay......I care. See, first I saved you from the Mclux, now I care. Just doing my part.
In all seriousness, if you accomplished your goal with your mod, then everything is great! You saw a problem, and found the solution, and to top it all off,, did it yourself! You should feel good about it.....

Gatsby · Sep 10, 2009

I waivered and waivered over the Arc6 that was in the marketplace over the weekend - and am still waffling even on a new one. I love my Novatac in almost every way except for the size. I've been looking for an EDC pocket light for some time and have tried a good number of alternatives. Basically have narrowed my requirements down to a few key characteristics that I ideally would like:

* A good bit smaller than the Novatac - doesn't have to be tiny (one issue with my Jil as an EDC light is that it is so small it is a bit tricky to operate one handed) but pocketable in business and business casual attire.

* CR123 based (or AA but I prefer the shorter 123 profile) - I've tried a few other cell sizes primarily CR2 and I think the 123 is the best balance of size, capacity and availability for an EDC light.

* RCR123 compatible - I love the Nautilus for example but the lack of RCR123 support (it will handle them but you basically lose low) is a bit of a deal breaker.

* UI - I like the Novatac UI a lot but it doesn't have to be this UI. What does not work is the twist on/off to switch modes ala the BitZ. That sort of limits things since I also realize that ideally I like 3 levels. I like a low low (and use the lowest setting on my Novatac a lot) a medium task level and a very bright level. I have some two stage lights and they are fine for some tasks but it usually means giving up the low low. I can do that if no alternatives exist (I'm mostly pocketing a Nitecore EZ123 these days which has two not that well chosen levels but they are OK and it is small and CR123 based) but would prefer 3 levels. 3 levels mostly rules out twisties unless they are of the on/off style which I just don't care for really... And it needs to either have memory or come on in low (or be programmed to do that).

* Reliability - an EDC light needs to work well, all the time.

I've tried the Nitecore EZ123, the Nitecore EX10, the Liteflux LF3XT in 123 based lights and a host of other AA, AAA and CR2 based lights and, well, none of them really meets my needs. The LF3XT comes perhaps closest although it is only marginally smaller than the Novatac - still split on this but it feels like I might as well carry the Novatac. The EZ123 gets pocket time due to size and general utility main level with a burst mode - but I admit I switch to the Novatac when I get home. The EX10 UI drives me up the wall that it won't remember the user set level so I'm always ramping up and down - since I'm very used to the Arc4/HDS/Novatac/Ra "toggle" UI I do switch modes fairly often.

The Arc6 seems to meet many of these requirements. Small, RCR123 compatible, 3 levels, built on the proven McGizmo piston drive design, programmable, low low, and the UI seems workable as I can program it to come on in low. It has its own UI and it seems solid (although they all have limits - the Arc6 only accesses virtual mode from off so if you're on in low or high it is not one step to max... but I can live with this since max is my least used mode). The one obstacle is cost - it is expensive - twice the price of my beloved Novatac - and the cost to "try it out" given the relatively thin resale market. However, it is also a way to get into a McLux/McGizmo heritage product which in these days of Don's fascination with titanium are completely out of my price range. And it is programmable with I appreciate.

So I care a fair amount about the Arc6 and given my smaller hands, hopefully won't have to go to this level - while a clever solution I'm not sure I have the intestinal fortitude to super glue those rings to the body of a $250 flashlight! Although in reality I suppose due to the modular nature you're really just altering the body itself which can be replaced for well under $100 IIRC.

fyrstormer · Sep 10, 2009

Matteblack said:
Okay......I care. See, first I saved you from the Mclux, now I care. Just doing my part.
In all seriousness, if you accomplished your goal with your mod, then everything is great! You saw a problem, and found the solution, and to top it all off,, did it yourself! You should feel good about it.....

Oh, I do feel good about it. I just want some attention icing on my DIY cake. :grin2:

fyrstormer · Sep 10, 2009

AMRaider said:
The cool features of course, add significantly to the cost of the light. Some folks may not consider them cool, or to them it is simply not worth the price, which I can understand. $250 will cover a month's worth of groceries and gasoline. (That's what it costs me, your mileage may vary of course). I consider myself very fortunate to carry one. I'm glad other folks can appreciate the light as well.

Must be nice. My food and fuel bills run $350-400 a month, and I'm single. That's the downside to living in a major metropolitan area, I guess.

Anyway, spending $250 on something that will last me until I feel like selling it is a nice change from the daily grind of consuming commodities.

fyrstormer · Sep 10, 2009

Gatsby said:
I waivered and waivered over the Arc6 that was in the marketplace over the weekend - and am still waffling even on a new one. I love my Novatac in almost every way except for the size. I've been looking for an EDC pocket light for some time and have tried a good number of alternatives. Basically have narrowed my requirements down to a few key characteristics that I ideally would like:

* A good bit smaller than the Novatac - doesn't have to be tiny (one issue with my Jil as an EDC light is that it is so small it is a bit tricky to operate one handed) but pocketable in business and business casual attire.

* CR123 based (or AA but I prefer the shorter 123 profile) - I've tried a few other cell sizes primarily CR2 and I think the 123 is the best balance of size, capacity and availability for an EDC light.

* RCR123 compatible - I love the Nautilus for example but the lack of RCR123 support (it will handle them but you basically lose low) is a bit of a deal breaker.

* UI - I like the Novatac UI a lot but it doesn't have to be this UI. What does not work is the twist on/off to switch modes ala the BitZ. That sort of limits things since I also realize that ideally I like 3 levels. I like a low low (and use the lowest setting on my Novatac a lot) a medium task level and a very bright level. I have some two stage lights and they are fine for some tasks but it usually means giving up the low low. I can do that if no alternatives exist (I'm mostly pocketing a Nitecore EZ123 these days which has two not that well chosen levels but they are OK and it is small and CR123 based) but would prefer 3 levels. 3 levels mostly rules out twisties unless they are of the on/off style which I just don't care for really... And it needs to either have memory or come on in low (or be programmed to do that).

* Reliability - an EDC light needs to work well, all the time.

I've tried the Nitecore EZ123, the Nitecore EX10, the Liteflux LF3XT in 123 based lights and a host of other AA, AAA and CR2 based lights and, well, none of them really meets my needs. The LF3XT comes perhaps closest although it is only marginally smaller than the Novatac - still split on this but it feels like I might as well carry the Novatac. The EZ123 gets pocket time due to size and general utility main level with a burst mode - but I admit I switch to the Novatac when I get home. The EX10 UI drives me up the wall that it won't remember the user set level so I'm always ramping up and down - since I'm very used to the Arc4/HDS/Novatac/Ra "toggle" UI I do switch modes fairly often.

The Arc6 seems to meet many of these requirements. Small, RCR123 compatible, 3 levels, built on the proven McGizmo piston drive design, programmable, low low, and the UI seems workable as I can program it to come on in low. It has its own UI and it seems solid (although they all have limits - the Arc6 only accesses virtual mode from off so if you're on in low or high it is not one step to max... but I can live with this since max is my least used mode). The one obstacle is cost - it is expensive - twice the price of my beloved Novatac - and the cost to "try it out" given the relatively thin resale market. However, it is also a way to get into a McLux/McGizmo heritage product which in these days of Don's fascination with titanium are completely out of my price range. And it is programmable with I appreciate.

So I care a fair amount about the Arc6 and given my smaller hands, hopefully won't have to go to this level - while a clever solution I'm not sure I have the intestinal fortitude to super glue those rings to the body of a $250 flashlight! Although in reality I suppose due to the modular nature you're really just altering the body itself which can be replaced for well under $100 IIRC.

I bought the Arc6 first and the NovaTac 120P later, and I returned the NovaTac the next day. The Arc6 is so much nicer.

I don't really worry about having 3 levels, honestly; I know how a really low low is useful, but for that I have a separate tiny light that's always in my pocket -- the Arc AAA would be a good choice for that. It doesn't matter that it uses a different batterythan the Arc6, because you'll probably change the battery twice a year it uses so little power.

If you're absolutely dead-set on 3 levels and cost is no object, your best bet is probably a McGizmo Haiku, but I'm in-love with the piston-drive switch for reasons I can't rationally explain (or else don't feel like typing again :sssh:

), so my Arc6 and my McGizmo PD-S and LunaSol will do me just fine.

There is no permanent damage done to the body of the Arc6 by supergluing the O-rings to the body, because you can soak it in acetone to dissolve the superglue. That will also destroy the O-rings, but at $2 for 10 of them, it's not a big deal. The biggest issue is making sure you apply TINY drops of superglue at regular intervals around the circumference of each ring so they run together and form a continuous bead without making a mess. I used a sharpened paper clip tip for this purpose.

AMRaider · Sep 10, 2009

fyrstormer said:
Must be nice. My food and fuel bills run $350-400 a month, and I'm single. That's the downside to living in a major metropolitan area, I guess.

Anyway, spending $250 on something that will last me until I feel like selling it is a nice change from the daily grind of consuming commodities.

Huge +1 on that. I can't stand buying something and having it wear out quickly or just break. When it comes to tools (and most products, come to think of it), I'll spend the extra buck for resilience. Another reason why I'm so happy with the Arc 6.

The area around me is actually pretty expensive, but I try hard to cut costs (allows me to fuel my flashlight hobby

). I try to look for sales, and when I find a good deal I stock up. I don't buy Starbucks (making my own tea only costs me $0.2 per day) and I never eat out unless I'm visiting family. Also, it may sound strange, but I only get gas for my car at night. Supposedly gas is slightly denser at night (since it's colder), and since the pump charges by volume and not by weight, you get a little more bang for your buck by filling up at night. Probably only saves a few pennies, but every bit counts.

fyrstormer · Sep 10, 2009

I doubt it makes any difference; the tanks are stored far enough underground that it's pretty much a constant 50 degrees under all conditions, at least in the Lower 48.

I think I have fixed my "slippery Arc6" problem.

fyrstormer

Banned

fyrstormer

Banned

fyrstormer

Banned

AMRaider

Enlightened

Matteblack

Newly Enlightened

Gatsby

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fyrstormer

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fyrstormer

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fyrstormer

Banned

AMRaider

Enlightened

fyrstormer

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