Pin Receptacles for DIY PR-Base Adapters

Hello all,

For anyone interested in building their own PR-base bi-pin lamp adapters, please read on...

The Carley #912 adapter is only rated to 1 amp, but has been used to about 1.2 amps.

I have used JB-Weld (regular type, 600-degree rated) and MOLEX # 16-102-103 C-Grid type pin receptacles to build an adapter that will handle more current. These pin receptacles are rated to 3 amps. The Newark Electronics stock number on these is 35C5018.

Another pin receptacle that looks even better is made by MILL-MAX, and the part number is 0295-015010627100 (Newark stock # 95F6581).

The Molex sockets are open and must be covered (I used heat shrink tubing) to prevent the epoxy from seeping inside and causing problems.

The Mill-Max receptacles are fully enclosed, and are designed to be placed into a PC-board hole and soldered in place. These are also offered in a range of sizes to accommodate different pin/wire sizes. They could be potted directly into an empty PR-base without the need for heat shrink. I will have to call Mill-Max to verify the current rating, but I suspect that it's at least 3 amps - hopefully higher.

FWIW, I've been using the Molex pin sockets in my PR-base adapter with lamps drawing near 2-amps for extended (1.25-hour) continuous runtimes, and have experienced no problems at all.

Higher current rated PR-base adapters will allow the use of unpotted bi-pin or stiff wire lead lamps such as those offered by Carley Lamps, Welch-Allyn, and even the "new" Mag-Charger Xenon lamp, in flashlights that only accept PR-based type lamps. Reflectors and heat, however, are a different subject...

Happy modding!

John

Thanks for the info John.

Wilkey

A few people in the past have asked me questions the response to which was "Search for Illuminated's post on DIY PR base adaptors, it's got good info." So for that reason alone, I am bumping this thread. But also, in case anyone wants to make a bi-pin to PR-base adaptor, I have both the Molex and MIL-MAX connectors which Illuminated mentions and am selling them on the modders B/S/T forum.

I sent some off to LEDmodMan so that he could make a bi-pin adaptor, but I never got around to asking him if he ever made it and how it came out.

Anyway, thanks for this very useful thread, John! May it live long and prosper!

For all things bulb-alicious (as opposed to babe-alicious JA /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) seek diagrams on don's bulbs: P13.5 (aka PR base, flanged 13.5mm)

BTTT

Now what about that 5amp 6v/30w Osram, or 6v/20w 3.3amp Osram & Eiko bulbs I want to pump into PR base for standard M*g 2D-cell (maybe even C-cell with correct battery chemistry/adapters???).

12v/65w Osram IRC 1,700+lm(thinking to mod my mag 4D....(64440IRC) ), yeah it's way long, but I'm an anal maniac, can we put this in a PR base? Just looking at a PR base, I would think the limiting factor on high-current would be the 'center contact' surrounded by glass insulation, won't this melt with sufficient current passing through it? 6amps, that's all I need /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/evilgrin07.gif

Pictures, we need pictures; what PR base are you using with these bi-pin to PR base adapters?

[ QUOTE ]
udaman said:
Pictures, we need pictures; what PR base are you using with these bi-pin to PR base adapters?

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry I missed this request before. Crummy pic (only one I had) posted in this thread. PR base used was that of a blown HPR50 or HPR52 because it had a glass insulator for the center contact, and it was on-hand at the time.

I'm sure someone with more skills/time than myself can certainly improve on this (hint-hint...)

John

Illum,

I see that pic you posted is titled as a cropped thumbnail, if you have a larger version for which you can send me a link for, I'll try to work a little Photoshop tweaking on that on. So much orange tint, like this was taken under incandescent lighting, and the camera was set for daylight or 'auto' white balance. A quick tweaking gets this, a slight improvement:


While I did not take a picture of the top of the Hungarian made 2.8v HPR52 bulb in my bulbs comparison pics on the 8AA-2D adapter review threads, it looked like the bulb envelope was held in place with a metal holder with that holder sleeve soldered to the PR flange. I could not see any potting compound underneath the solder junction. When I purchase another HPR52, I'll cut this one open to see how it was put together.

By glass insulator, I will assume that which we see for all of the PR base bulbs. opaque/black color material at bottom of the bulb. Maybe I'm just anal, but in doing the 8AA-2D adapter review threads, I got rather annoyed at filament artifacts, so I know that exacting centering of a filament can make a significant difference with a M*g reflector. How did you accurately center the 2 connectors for the bi-pin?

I can see the utility of the PR base to bi-pin adapters, but I've been looking at/pondering if something else can't be done with those connectors to use with the bi-pin bulbs in another way. That's what I've been doing while I've been procrastinating on the long 'secrets of M*glite current flows, cleaning contacts' thread I'm overdue to post. When that gets done, then I'll get back to js's thread and put these thoughts together.

HPR52 did in fact have a metal holder sleeve as you desribed, but was was tacked to the PR base in 2 or 3 places via a resistance weld or similar - not soldered.

Gently working the bulb envelope back and forth loosened it enough to allow pulling it out of the base. Once the envelope was removed, the metal sleeve was fairly easily removed using needle-nosed pliars. I honestly don't remember if there was any potting compound.

Glass insulator at bottom of PR base is also as you described. I soldered my pin sockets to solid wires (resistor leads I think) and added the insulator sleeves. I then pre-formed the wires and soldered them into the base.
Centering the pins was accomplished by inserting a lamp and tweaking the wires until everything looked good (eye-balled it).

The pin sockets used are only rated to 3 amps, and they are a bit long - so they protrude beyond the flange as seen in the pic.

Sorry about the crappy pic - I wish I had intended to document the thing at the time of construction, but I didn't realize there would have been such interest. I'll email you the orig pic if you think it's worth the trouble to enhance.

I have an idea for an improved version using the Mill-Max pin sockets JS has been selling, if anyone is interested. I don't know when I'll have time to build it, but perhaps someone else will want to try...

John