Switch problem with SF G2

I have an older G2 which I recently picked up. The switch is flaky!

There should be nothing to go wrong. It's just a plug of metal with a spring, and when I push on it, it makes contact with the metal tube which lines the plastic flashlight. Mechanically, it seems to work fine, but the light doesn't light up.

There is a dark ring on the portion of the switch where it makes contact with the metal tube. I've tried cleaning that off, and it helps, but the ring comes back in a day or so. I've tried using nyogel on the plastic and rubber parts, and I've tried using progold on the metal parts, but neither of those seems to have changed anything.

So: does anyone have any ideas about how to make this thing as reliable as Surefires are supposed to be?

whoa... thats a first.

Make sure the tube end edge is clean, as well as the spring and plate. I use a Q-tip and electronic parts cleaner to de-gunk all that stuff.

Can you post up some pics of the body tube and switch cap?

2 suggestions - pick up a clicky from netkidz if he is still selling them & change out the guts in the switch. I did this with my G2s

Or - if you are interested I think I have a spare black G2 tail I could sell (original guts in it).


Doesn't fix the current one...

I think this may be a problem with the drop-in, rather than just with the switch. I have a Lighthound drop-in, and I've begun to realize that the problem never shows up with the P60 bulb, just the drop-in. Also, suddenly, the drop-in is dimmer than the P60 (on the same batteries, of course). That was a clue! I'll send an email to Lighthound, and ask him for advice on how to proceed.

Nfetterly, I might be interested in that old G2 tailcap if it's cheap enough. I don't do paypal, so we'd have to work out some way to pay you.

Kramer5150, cleaning the spring seems to have been the thing to do.

I pulled the spring out of the switch pill, and lightly sanded the inside with 400 grit, then put in some De-Ox (a grease-like substance that electricians use on aluminum wiring connections). Now the switch seems to be working better.

I don't think I'm going to be able to give useful pictures: I don't have a camera which can make a close-up that would be better than my description, I think.

Thanks for your help!

Nels