New Surefire Fire Rescue Lights

tundratrader

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What makes these lights safer than the regular ones? They use all the same hardware as the others. I dont get it. Does the color of the body with reflectors make the difference or are you just paying to get the intrinsically safe rating?

I am new to firefighting and search and rescue but I am a flashlight junkie. It makes since to me that slapping a m60wf in one of these with an AW 17670 cell would rock. Any reason this cant be done?


Thanks
Zach
 

Sgt. LED

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I have one and I don't really see any difference as to safety. I like the bright yellow and that was pretty much enough for me. :D Put the Malkoff in but watch the heat levels. AH between the Al head, the 17670 battery and your location I doubt you'll have to worry about it.
 
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jeeves

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Same hardware? Do you mean the electronics?
The outside looks pretty different to me.

surefire website said:
removable micro-lens inserts (included) that simultaneously diffuse the beam and control its divergence angle.

a micro-textured reflector to produce a smooth beam at three output levels

And what looks to me like a new head design.
*I don't 'follow' SureFire, this may just be one of their newer 'standard' heads but I've not seen it before.

Also, I don't know if other SF get 'MIL-STD-810 rated safe for explosive atmospheres but this one is'. Which is not typically a 'standard' feature in most lights.




Good question about whether there is a discernible difference or not.
I would probably do some research before buying, just to make sure I'm not paying for yellow grips, stickers, and... 'removable micro lens inserts' which I would probably never change after a week or two of finding which I liked best.

Although, the three out put levels and the UI would be nice to have for the Incan of an A2. Even better, on my E1e.


*I'm no SF nut, so simply ignore me if I'm misinformed .
 

sonrider657

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I have not seen these lights. Anyone have a model number and/or link?
 

tundratrader

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G2L-G3L
Sorry I have been away for awhile and didnt realize there was a thread going.
Anyone that has one of each see any real differences is what I am looking for. I know it has a P60L lamp and clicky switch so I dont see what the diff is.
 

angelofwar

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Being a FF, you would definitely want a light that was safe for explosive atmoshpheres (non-conductive/spark producing materials), in the event of responding to a splilled tanker/leaking gas stove's, etc. I would E-mail SF and ask them if any of there other lights are this way, but I very seriously doubt it, except maybe there other G2L's/6PL's. I know incans have to have an extra wire in the glass (that actually touches the tip of the bulb), to cause the bulb to basically short in the event that the glass breaks (from being dropped, whatever), removing electricity from the filament, there-by NOT igniting any fumes that may be in the air.
 

tundratrader

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Hey Sgt.

Any chance of getting a closer look at the threads and tube on yours. I was thinking that heat should be decent on these since they have an aluminum head. So I guess my question is if switching components out would cancel the explosion proof rating. Or if the rating is because the flashlight is tightly sealed. I presume you have a Malkoff in yours. How does it fit?

So my next question to anyone else reading this thread is there a flashlight with reliability and brightness similar to a malkoff setup. The lights we have at the station are various 4aa lights from Pelican, streamlight and UKE. I am not impressed so far by any of them. I grabbed two different ones the other day that had a burned out bulb and the other had dead batteries. I have just gotten so used to knowing I have a light that is going to light every single time, so that is unacceptable.
Zach
 

Sgt. LED

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I can get you some pics in the AM.
Yes I have a Malkoff in mine and the fit is good, there's a gap bit it is tiny. Like hold it up to the light to see it's there.

I think the rating is advertized because this is the only light they've put up to be rated rather than having something special about it.
 

tundratrader

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So I got my g2l-fyl in the mail and here is my report. I will try and get some pics soon.

First the part of the light that is intrisically safe is the clicky tailcap switch. The lamp assembly is the same as other p60L's. The led on these appears to be a little brighter than others and the color is closer to white that the last p60L I had. I of course installed a malkoff anyways. I went with one of the m60wf because this is going to be my helmet work light. This was the first surefire I have had to trim the malkoff to get it to fit. But it didnt take much sanding to get it to fit. I have no gap now. I think I will get one of the 3 cell ones and install a m60w for punching through smoke.

So overall these are a good deal. You get an aluminium head and clicky tailcap surefire for about 75.00 bucks on the marketplace.

Zach
 

Vinniec5

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I'm on the fence choosing between the G2D-FYL or the G3D. I was wondering if anyone has a opinion of the difference in run time between the 2 cell and 3 cell is it that much more run time worth the size difference. the G2D is about the same size as the G3L. Just curious what you guys think about the difference in run times and if you think its worth it either way thx
 

zs&tas

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hey tundra, might be worth playing around with blue filters as well, arnt they suposed to cut through rain/fog/smoke a little nicier ?
 

tundratrader

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I tried some of the filters it came with and they really knocked down the lumens. They are great for room lighting though. I was suprised by how well the m60w penetrated smoke. Most of the guys I work with have pelican recoils which do work well but are nowhere near as bright as the malkoff.
 

ElectronGuru

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I'm on the fence choosing between the G2D-FYL or the G3D. I was wondering if anyone has a opinion of the difference in run time between the 2 cell and 3 cell is it that much more run time worth the size difference. the G2D is about the same size as the G3L. Just curious what you guys think about the difference in run times and if you think its worth it either way thx

This comes down to which drop in and cells you want to use.

If you want to stick with the factory P60L and primaries, the G3 will get you a bunch more run time.

If you want to pop in a Malkoff and switch to a 17670, the G2 is more convenient.
 

BowHunterk

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I have not seen these lights. Anyone have a model number and/or link?
it is the ( g2l-fyl )and i think the reason it is so expensive is because they still havn't recuped the cost of the testing from ul and ansi. i work at a fueling depot and it requiese the intrinsicly safe marking on the case. Mill-spec-10 was not acceptabel so i setteled for the streamlight 4AA with the lux led and it works fine for what i do. As a surefire fan, it is hard to step away for the first time, but, it has opened up my horizons and now i am here!:popcorn:
 
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