My WA1111 turned WHITE!

well it is the bulb that resides in the flashlight in my sig...I accasionally use the 2 18650 batts (the flashlight is a shelf-queen and a covertational piece)

So the bulb is milky white in teh interior and I do not know how that happened....lst time I only placed the batts and insure tailcap LOC...
Also I have measured the batts voltage and it is consistent with what I expected.being ledt at. these preclude minimal draw

The bulb runs OK and at the expected heat emmission but I better not descrive the beam...

So what can have happened? Tungsteen vapors?

You will find a lot of pertinent information in this thread.

When my '31 exploded the inside was white.

The glass has failed and let oxygen in. Stop using it now. The next step in the process might be .

nzgunnie said:

The glass has failed and let oxygen in. Stop using it now. The next step in the process might be .

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+1

Yeah don't be cheap, replace your bulb. They are not expensive...

gee...Never thought it would be like this...

lamps are cheap but postage not....and to even things you must buy more....well guess that i will add 1794s too....

kosPap said:

gee...Never thought it would be like this...

lamps are cheap but postage not....and to even things you must buy more....well guess that i will add 1794s too....

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Well, WA bulbs are notorious for their very short lives in hotwire setups-- not to mention the high instaflash risk. Dedicate lamp assemblies made to run on li-ions are much better when it come to lifespan and reliability. That's why I prefer to use Lumens Factory lamp assemblies in my high-powered incans, they are very reliable and the pre-focused beam is the icing on the cake. There in no need to ajust bi-pin lamps in order to get a good beam profile.

Outdoors Fanatic said:

Well, WA bulbs are notorious for their very short lives in hotwire setups-- not to mention the high instaflash risk.

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This is because user is using wrong bulb in wrong setup.
If longer bulb life and less instaflash chance is what you are looking for, try WA1274 with two protected cells, WA1166 with three protected cells and let us know the result.
Pushing WA1111 with two li-ions are for real hotwire guys who don't care about 10 hours life of $8 bulb.

Outdoors Fanatic said:

Dedicate lamp assemblies made to run on li-ions are much better when it come to lifespan and reliability. That's why I prefer to use Lumens Factory lamp assemblies in my high-powered incans, they are very reliable and the pre-focused beam is the icing on the cake. There in no need to ajust bi-pin lamps in order to get a good beam profile.

Click to expand...

Definitely true for newbie or LED people who don't know how center and adjust the fillament to focal point.
Advantage of bi pin socket is to use any bulb with any voltage for any set up.
ROP 3854 HO is good set up for 6AA but is there any similar PR base bulb for 4D, 5C 9AA and...?

Exactly like the Master Fivemega pointed out: try a WA 1274 for your 2X Li-ion setup! This one has a design-voltage of 7.2V and draws 2.77 Amps.
Driven this way, you'll have 40 hours of life, and it will push out 553 Lumens.

Isn't that nice?

Timmo.

I have experienced this phenomenon also and sort of see it as a badge of honor. I have two bulbs that have many hours on them and have a slight blackish tint forming on the bulb envelope. I have another bulb in this case a 5761 with about 25+ hours on it. I drive it with 2xA123 cells. It has developed a very slight white frosting on its bulb envelope. Although this build only drives the bulb from about 7.0 volts when fresh off the charger and a steady 6.6 volts in typical use. At 6.6 volts the 5761 pumps out about 1000 lumens and I find this very useful in a bone reliable kick around 2D flashlight.