how many lumens, 1D mag p7 4xAA?

this seems like a great mod and not to hard any ideas as to how much it puts out? and how long the batteries would last

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3072403#post3072403

or even an sst-90 in the same configuration?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/244798

sorry typo I ment 3xAA

any way I've picked up my 2D yesterday and I've ordered some bits I'm going to try a DD p7 with 4xaa ni-mh

Will said in post #5 of the thread you mentioned that since 3*AA alkalines can't produce the kind of current that would be dangerous to a P7, the light is basically self regulating. As far as the SST-90 goes, they require a lot more power than that kind of battery configuration can provide. Two problems are first 4*AA NiMH will produce too much power for a P7 without the addition of a buck regulator. And second the 2D Mag needs to be cut down and bored to accept a 4*AA battery holder. The machining, the battery holder and the regulator collectively represent a significant increase in the expense of your light.

Since you already have the 2D Mag, the least expensive option might be 3*NiMH SubC's. Three of that type battery is about 1/2" longer than a pair of D cells, so you need to modify the tailcap spring. You also need a piece of 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe about 5" long to act as a spacer. You can get that at any hardware store. And since SubC's are usually flat tops, you either need to stretch the spring in the switch body to make contact with the battery, or put a magnet on the tip of the battery next to the switch. Usually magnets are a bad idea. But in this case, the magnet is basically trapped inside the switch housing. It can't go anywhere if you accidentally drop the light.

If you want to direct drive the light, make sure you get a P7 with a J voltage bin. For a P7 bin code, when you see the letters DSXOJ or something like that, the J at the end refers to its voltage. J has a range of 3.5-3.75 volts.

BTW, :welcome: and happy modding

Cheers for the help, atm I'm struggaling to make my mind up on what I want so for now I'm not going to chop it, and follow this guide for a 3D

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/238641

I figure if you can direct drive a p7 with 3 D cells, then 4xAA ni-mhs can't be a problam?

I've ordered a DSWOI from britelumens along with a D size heat sink £31
and I've orderd 2xaa to D cell converters of ebay £3.99, so for now I can use the AA ni-mhs I've got to keep costs down.

so adding the cost of the torch £18, I'm trying to keep this project under the £60 mark other wise I'll get carried away.

I think this mod keeps my future options open :devil:

If it's the kind of "2xaa to D cell converter" that wires the batteries in parallel, you won't have enough voltage. That would be about 2.7-2.8 volts fresh off the charger. Check out the graph at the top of page 6 in SSC's spec's on the P7. Just enough to make a P7 glow. But at least it won't damage anything.

feels like I'm learning every day seems 3 c cells is a much better option but they aint cheap plus i'll need a new charger, puches the build to just under £100 but I'm sure I'll still get a good value for money bright light

Now that you've already bought an "I" binned emitter, the three C cells might be too much voltage. Have you seen these DX regulators? Ok you have to buy 10 of them, when they have them in stock, but that's only $3.57 per torch. I recently completed a 2C MagLite using a pair of them per this thread. The forward voltage of my I binned P7 at 2.82 amps was 3.28 volts. I feel fairly certain if I didn't have a regulator, I would have blown the LED. I was using an IMR26650 which has similar output to 3*SubC's. Maybe it has slightly less voltage sag.

You can screw a pair of wires onto plastic dowels and solder magnets onto the ends of the wires. Then you can charge the SubC's in your AA charger. You will have saved enough money on the charger you didn't buy to afford a regulator.

Seriously though, if you don't own a DMM with a 10 amp scale, borrow one from a friend when you set it up. What happens is as the junction temperature rises, the forward voltage of the LED drops. It's commonly called thermal runaway. If your LED draws 3 or 4 amps and as you're looking at the meter the level keeps going up, you need a regulator. Power resistor aren't as good as a constant current regulator, but they are better than nothing. The good news is they are cheap.