Sold/Expired WTB: buck converter

im new here and just starting and im looking for a buck converter for a ssc p7 emitter if u have one or some please email me here [email protected] or any links to some would be great thanks


any links to dx or kd drivers would be great also

las3r said:

im new here and just starting and im looking for a buck converter for a ssc p7 emitter if u have one or some please email me here [email protected] or any links to some would be great thanks

Click to expand...

Order them direct:

hipFlex

or

SHARK Buck 3A

Both are excellent QUALITY products (as there are others)

Re: WTB/help !!!

what would be the best dx or kd driver for a ssc p7 emitter ? links would be great and im kinda on a budget and cant afford $20-40 dollar driver and is my first build

i would like to run it from 1 or 2x 18650 batts if possible

please help thanks Aircraft800 for that link

can i use dx or kd drivers ?

las3r said:

can i use dx or kd drivers ?

Click to expand...

You can, but the drive current is overrated, and thermal shutdown is a good possibility. The only other one I've seen that had a few good reviews was the one from Shiningbeam, but he is out of them now. Member download has a few for sale though, get them while you still can.

8x 7135 driver, 17mm (Low, Mid, High 2.8A) - 3 mode, $9/pc (4 left)

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2060148#post2060148

thanks Aircraft800 i ordered 2 of them

also is there any info on this driver so i no what batts i should use and how many voilt's ?

The board is AMC7135-based, according to the one-line product description. That means a recommended max input voltage of 6V and an absolute max input voltage of 7V. In addition, you need to provide an input voltage at least 120mV (the dropout voltage, Vdropout) higher than the LED's Vf at the drive current of interest.

For a Seoul P7, the paper Vf spec is 3.6V (typical) at 2.8A drive current. Thus, your batteries may need to hold at least 3.72V to run the LED in full regulation. The voltage range 3.72V to 6V then dictates the battery configurations that can work. Typically, the choices are 1xLi-ion (usually an 18650, or an IMR26500) or 3xD NiMH. The closer Vbatt is to Vf+Vdropout, the more efficiently the driver runs. And the longer Vbatt stays above Vf+Vdropout, the longer the light will run in full regulation. So, you could use 2x123A, for example (although there are potential thermal issues with driving 123A cells at 2.8A), but efficiency is not going to be as good as using 1x18650 or 3xD NiMH.

las3r said:

thanks Aircraft800 i ordered 2 of them

also is there any info on this driver so i no what batts i should use and how many voilt's ?

Click to expand...

Since the driver is a 8X AMC7135 linear regulator, it burns off excess volts as heat. The more volts fed into it, the hotter it'll get, so try to stay just above the Vf of the LED. so somewhere around 4.66v would be ideal to stay in regulation and stay cool for your P7.

EDIT: Justin Case beat me to it while I stepped away from the PC. Thanks dude!

thanks guys......... i cant wait till all my parts gets here to start building my first 1D maglite

if i can use one 18650 batt can i use another host besides a 1D mag ? like any flashlight that takes 1x18650 ???? iwant it to be bright as possible lol