Parts is parts? Request for right package

Krotchitty

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
42
I'm really a one or two light guy, but still can't find the perfect edc for my needs. I'm considering purchasing a drop in, head, body and possibly a clicky.

I'm hoping for about 2 hrs + on high / at least 20 hrs. on low, (200 + lumen /20 lumen) and strobe, perhaps my ideal light does not exist yet. I may be asking for the impossible as far as runtimes with one cell (if so, please say so).

What I've tried so far; (some I still have)
D10 - good size, no strobe, not bright enough, good run time, prefer a brighter light that was floodier, like the low low, great knurling and clip execution.

EX10 - just a tad too small, no strobe, not bright enough, better run time, prefer a brighter light that was floodier, like the low low great knurling and clip execution.

Novatac 120T- perfect size, great UI, poor run time on high, like the low low, not floody enough, knurling is too shallow and the clip is a snag magnet. Best clicky feel.

Ra CLicky 140 - Too big, better run time on high (but dimmer and not as bright as EX10) good beam but not floody enough, tint is OK great UI and build quality, knurling is shallow and the clip seems like a design afterthought that is inconsistent with the rest of the design. Did I mention that it is too big?

LiteFlux Lf3xt - close to perfect size, doesn't feel solid enough, love the beam tint and very close to ideal floodiness, if a bit narrow, great UI, hate the clicky feel (non-feel?), run time not good on high.

Quark - tried a few variants, didn't like the tactical UI, and the regular kept switching modes when turned off, good spill, a good Fenix design made better really, clip is not positioned ideally for pocket carry. Decent run time and decent brightness, clicky feel is milquetoast compared to NT / Ra.

So if I had the beam of the Lf3xt (just a bit floodier and a lot brighter), the clicky feel and solid HD build of the NT and Ra, the knurling and clip of the EX10, and better brightness and run time than all of them, I'd be set (not really but I need to start somewhere).
Zebralight is a possibility but likely too small in 123 and I don't like the forward facing LED or UI, plus no strobe (I think).

I'd like a one cell light,(CR123 primary 3P type I suppose) that will be belt carried in a Concealco holster. I'd like a flood beam, warm tint, with a low about 10 lumens, and high about 200+. I'd also like a strobe, no SOS, but am open to other multi modes if a 3 mode as described does not exist. I'd like a very solid feeling forward clicky but twisty is OK (eg; Valiant). I prefer to use a Malkoff drop-in if one exists that fits my needs. From his website it appears there is not.

One last thing... I prefer to buy the least expensive (good enough) head body and tail and focus on the quality and feature set of the drop in and clicky. I prefer a higher run time over lumen volume (thus the lower mode). The light would be an edc and would replace my current EDC's; Ra Clicky, Novatac, and EX10) which I love, but find either too big, too small, not floody enough, not enough run time on high, or no strobe (EX10). I know the new EX10 has a strobe, but not bright enough, has reduced run time as well.

The Valiant Concepts twisty form factor appears to be interesting, but being a Malkoff head, it appears that other drop ins do not fit and again with the multi mode thing... I want to avoid fitment issues so compatibility among parts is essential.

I thought that maybe someone else had a similar edc need and perhaps had a recommendation for me that would allow me to avoid mistakes in building a light from available parts, or even recommend a light or parts that best meets my needs for a long lasting floody 123 multi-mode compact edc that I can rely on despite dropping on the ground several times sooner or later (solid and tough).

:popcorn:
 

Beacon of Light

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
2,054
Hey I have always wondered what the meaning of "parts is parts" is supposed to mean. I remember there was a EBay store called "Parts is parts" that sold guitar parts, and have seen this phrase from people selling guitar parts on different forum classifieds before, but I never got a clear answer as to what the phrase means. It is almost as profound as wanting to know what the definition of "is" is.
 

Toaster

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 21, 2003
Messages
640
I'm hoping for about 2 hrs + on high / at least 20 hrs. on low, (200 + lumen /20 lumen) and strobe, perhaps my ideal light does not exist yet. I may be asking for the impossible as far as runtimes with one cell (if so, please say so).


You're dreaming here. 200 lumens for 2 hours on 1xCR123 would require a LED with roughly double the efficiency of even the latest and greatest XP-G R5 emitter.
 

Krotchitty

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
42
Hey I have always wondered what the meaning of "parts is parts" is supposed to mean. I remember there was a EBay store called "Parts is parts" that sold guitar parts, and have seen this phrase from people selling guitar parts on different forum classifieds before, but I never got a clear answer as to what the phrase means. It is almost as profound as wanting to know what the definition of "is" is.

What is generally meant by this saying is that there is no significant difference between makes or brands for a given part. Why pay more for brand X bezel or body when brand M is the same (significantly the same) for significantly less dosh.

You're dreaming here. 200 lumens for 2 hours on 1xCR123 would require a LED with roughly double the efficiency of even the latest and greatest XP-G R5 emitter.

OK, I thought so... so how about 100 lumens for 2 hours?
 

sparkysko

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 2, 2007
Messages
228
You're dreaming here. 200 lumens for 2 hours on 1xCR123 would require a LED with roughly double the efficiency of even the latest and greatest XP-G R5 emitter.

Really?

Even accounting for droop and 10% optics loss (175% output at 2 watts / 700mA) that doesn't add up.

A duracell CR123 is 3v and 1.5 aH. That's 4.5 watt hours. Divide by two you have 2.25 watts.

139 lumens per watt (From Cree xpg-r5) * 175% (for 2 watt lumen rating on xp-g) = 243 lumens.

So you'd have 2 hours of 243 lumens and an extra half a watt hour to spare. Accounting for 70-80% driver efficiency, you could still get the 2 hours at a 200 lumen rate.
 

Beacon of Light

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
2,054
What is generally meant by this saying is that there is no significant difference between makes or brands for a given part. Why pay more for brand X bezel or body when brand M is the same (significantly the same) for significantly less dosh.

Good point. Is this the only saying that is unique like that though? I have never heard another iteration of that saying, like laptops is laptops, or pizzas is pizzas or cell phones is cell phones. I guess what I am asking is why have "parts" in general been the factor to use this phrase?
 

Toaster

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 21, 2003
Messages
640
OK, I thought so... so how about 100 lumens for 2 hours?

That's certainly more than doable with current tech. If you want the best output and runtime, then you'll want to wait for the XP-G R5/S2 equipped lights to hit the market. Which should be in around 1-2 months.


Really?

Even accounting for droop and 10% optics loss (175% output at 2 watts / 700mA) that doesn't add up.

A duracell CR123 is 3v and 1.5 aH. That's 4.5 watt hours. Divide by two you have 2.25 watts.

139 lumens per watt (From Cree xpg-r5) * 175% (for 2 watt lumen rating on xp-g) = 243 lumens.

So you'd have 2 hours of 243 lumens and an extra half a watt hour to spare. Accounting for 70-80% driver efficiency, you could still get the 2 hours at a 200 lumen rate.

Your numbers are way too optimistic. Optics loss is around 20%. So you need roughly 250 emitter lumens. To achieve that from a R5 bin you need a drive current of ~700mah. With 75% average driver efficiency that's a 930mah draw from the battery. Which according to Duracell's data sheet for their 123 cell gives a service life of a little over an hour. Nowhere close to 2 hours.
 

TomInOregon

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
71
Hey I have always wondered what the meaning of "parts is parts" is supposed to mean. I remember there was a EBay store called "Parts is parts" that sold guitar parts, and have seen this phrase from people selling guitar parts on different forum classifieds before, but I never got a clear answer as to what the phrase means. It is almost as profound as wanting to know what the definition of "is" is.

The first time I heard the phrase "Parts is parts", it was on a commercial criticizing Mcdonald's Chicken Mcnuggets. Google "Parts is parts chicken commercial". I would include a link to youtube, but I don't know if it's allowed.

Tom
 

bansuri

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
886
While parts is parts, circuits aren't circuits.
With that in mind I'm going to try to find a used LF3XT and put the guts in my novatac120E. The nova LE is certainly lacking compared to the liteflux, but the body style/ergonomics are better suited for my needs. I haven't been able to find a comfortable holding style with the LF3XT that allows me to access the button, if it was mounted on the side near the head this might be an easier light to use. With no detent on the tube the cigar style hold just doesn't work for me.
So hopefully the liteflux/novatac Frankenlight will be my perfect light.
 
Top