Fenix HP10 - beamshots and a few thoughts

I recently got my hands on a copy of the Fenix HP10... the new Fenix 225 lumen headlamp. Originally slated for shipping in August, Fenix delayed shipping over a minor engineering issue that was promptly remedied. The lights shipped in October and Daniel at Fenix Outfitters promptly got a copy in the mail to me.
Here are the specs (as provided by Fenix):

·Cree XR-E LED (Q5) with lifespan of 50,000 hours
·4 output levels, 3 flashing modes
Levels: 7 lumens (210 hrs) >> 50 lumens (22 hrs) >> 120 lumens (7.5 hrs) >> 225 lumens (total 2.5 hrs)
Flash modes: Strobe (5 hrs) >> SOS (50 hrs) >> Warning Flash (44 hrs)
·Max lighting distance (throw): 120 meters
·Dual switch system with easy operation - one for on/off, the other for output adjustment
·Digitally regulated output - maintains constant brightness
·Memorizes last output level
·Overheating protection: lamp goes back to high output after 3 minutes continuously in Turbo mode
·Uses four 1.5v AA (Alkaline, Ni-MH, Lithium) batteries, inexpensive and widely available
·Separated structure to balance weight for comfort while wearing
Light body: 54 mm (length) * 43 mm (width) * 33.5 mm (height)
Battery pack: 84 mm (length) * 64 mm (width) * 21 mm (height)
·Light head is made of aircraft-grade aluminum; the rest is high quality plastic
·Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
·Weight: Light body: 40g, Battery pack: 77g (not including batteries)
·Waterproof to IPX-8 standard (Submerge 2 meters deep for 30 minutes continuous lighting)
·Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
Max Lumens: 225
Min Lumens: 7
AA batteries: 4
Color: Black
Strobe: Yes
Emitter: Cree XR-E Q5 LED
Diameter (head): 1.7 in
Length: 2.1 in

Here's the headlamp.

The fit and finish is very nice. Fenix took several novel directions in the design of the light that I really like. The battery compartment is secured with two trapped thumbscrews and is very substantial. The head is machined aluminum and has a series of heat fins to dissipate the heat generated by the LED. Many other manufactureres still have plastic heads and heat sinking has proven to be an ongoing issue... one that Fenix made solid efforts to avoid.
Here are the results from the first round of beamshot/context tests (I used a colored rubber snake as the subject at a distance of 10 ft. - focal length 55mm):

The reflector in the HP10 is moderately smooth. It's more of a "throwy" light relative to the reflectors in lights like the P2D. As such there are more artifacts in the beam (see the darker donut around the spot in the beamshots above) but the beam profile makes for a solid combination of a throwy spot and good spill light for peripheral vision. Fenix also released a beam diffuser for the HP10 that serves to convert the beam profile into a flood light... something that most flashaholics find very beneficial. I haven't seen a copy of the beam diffuser but I'll see if I can't order one so I can post the comparisons here.

Here are beamshot comparisons for the Petzyl's new Myo RXP and the Fenix P2D premium Q5. These are meant to be compared to the beamshot beam profile images in the left column of the above graphic. I'll post context comparisons very soon to outline more practical in-use comparisons.

I also have a series of beam comparisons on the way from the Princeton Tec Apex and several Petzyl models. I'll post them as soon as I get the photos edited.

Great pictures so far. The snake is a nice touch. :laughing:

The Fenix beam diffuser is flawed. I had to "fix" mine with a sharpie in order to keep it from sending glare back onto my eyes. It also doesn't stay on reliably with rough use and storage (in the backpack).

How's the beam tint? I know it's a cool white LED , but is it comparatively at least on the warmer side of the scale?

I am amazed about Fenix HP10. Yesterday I used it as a bicycle lamp at evening, and showed it to some friends. They were impressed as well.
HP10 is great for cycling, and 50lm level is adequate for main use.
I found the throwing to be decent and when turned my head the hotspot clearly shined up houses at quite long distance at the side of the road. Though 50lm is good the long runtime provides use with 120lm during hours if that would be desirable.

But I am surprised when you desertrat21 say that the head is of aluminum. My HP10 really feels plastic...
Therefore I also wondered about the need of overheating protection, and thought that this would not be necessary with an aluminum body and heat fins of aluminum instead of the plastic?

Regards, Patric

Swedpat said:

But I am surprised when you desertrat21 say that the head is of aluminum. My HP10 really feels plastic...
Therefore I also wondered about the need of overheating protection, and thought that this would not be necessary with an aluminum body and heat fins of aluminum instead of the plastic?

Regards, Patric

Click to expand...

The housing for the LED and reflector (the forward portion with the fins) is machined out of aluminum. The case mounted to the forward section houses the switches and headband mounts and is made of high impact plastic. The aluminum head seems to allow for a much more effective dissipation of heat relative to the completely plastic housings of other manufacturers.

*more comparison photos
Here are more context beamshots that help illustrate the HP10's capabilities. I also cut a small circle of Fellowes WriteRight (static cling PDA screen protector) and adhered it to the lens of the HP10 as a diffuser in order to limit the beam artifacts and tone down the hotspot. It seemed to work quite well:

Fenix HP10


Here's a series from the new Petzl Myo XRP headlamp for comparison:
Petzl Myo XRP


Here's a 4 D cell Mag-lite with a halogen bulb:
4D Mag-Lite


Here's a little teaser for my upcoming Fenix TK40 review:
Fenix TK40

desertrat21 said:

The housing for the LED and reflector (the forward portion with the fins) is machined out of aluminum. The case mounted to the forward section houses the switches and headband mounts and is made of high impact plastic. The aluminum head seems to allow for a much more effective dissipation of heat relative to the completely plastic housings of other manufacturers.

Click to expand...

Ok, then I get it!

And thanks for your review and comparison pictures! :thumbsup:

Regards, Patric

the photo is very nice!

The HP10 is a great thrower, but a diffuser would be necessary for things like setting up a tent or even reading a book. I will get one despite the flaws.

On another note, I took my HP10 for run last night on single track. The light is awesome. However, the band and suspension system are not nearly as good as any Petzl or Black Diamond headlamp (that I have used). The strap does not stay tight and the battery pack has some bounce.

Another is issue is that the switches would be difficult to use with thick gloves or mittens. However, this is common with just about all the recent headlamps.

PhantomPhoton said:

Great pictures so far. The snake is a nice touch. :laughing:

The Fenix beam diffuser is flawed. I had to "fix" mine with a sharpie in order to keep it from sending glare back onto my eyes. It also doesn't stay on reliably with rough use and storage (in the backpack).

How's the beam tint? I know it's a cool white LED , but is it comparatively at least on the warmer side of the scale?

Click to expand...

You may note in the other HP10 thread that myself and someone else noted the need to rethread the elastic strap so it does not loosen, then you will find it functional.

The buttons seem at 1st appearance to be unusable with thick gloves, but I can operate them fine with neoprene gloves on.

Re: Fenix HP10 -Rethread straps?

Forgive my ignorance, but would someone post a photo or explanation of how to rethread the strap please?

Thanks

Well, it took some doing, but I'm very happy with my HP10 right now.

The strap had to be rethreaded.
I had to spray paint the diffuser clip black to remove glare.
I also used superglue on the diffuser hinge to tighten it up (tiny droplet of superglue into the hinge, then keep opening and closing the hinge as the glue sets so it doesn't seize) - it now stays open/closed properly and I'm less worried about it snapping off in transport.
I also bought some lithium AAs - makes it all much, much lighter.

All simple problems to fix, but should have all been spotted by the manufacturer. The diffuser is still the weakest part of the design, but it's perfectly usable now.

Re: Fenix HP10 -Rethread straps?

Offroad'Bent said:

Forgive my ignorance, but would someone post a photo or explanation of how to rethread the strap please?

Thanks

Click to expand...

+1 wish for photo of rethreaded strap.

Please?

Hey desertrat21 ,

Is it your post #5 that is

causing this entire thread

to go way off screen ..... ?

Causing the need for horizontal scrolling ?


If so , would you please change your pic's ?

Or whatever or whoever is causing it , please .

Re: Fenix HP10 -Rethread straps?

Fottach said:

+1 wish for photo of rethreaded strap.

Please?

Click to expand...

+ 2........my HP10 was not strapped at all and I still don't think I have them right.
I've been searching out closeups looking at them.
I love the headlamp though. Brightguy.com has the best service in the business!

Re: Fenix HP10 -Rethread straps?

This is how I have mine threaded, and it seems to work well. Don't have a picture of how they come though.

Re: Fenix HP10 -Rethread straps?

snoboy said:

This is how I have mine threaded, and it seems to work well. Don't have a picture of how they come though.

Click to expand...

This looks like the standard threading that the unit shows up with. It's a little prone to slippage, as there are no teeth on the buckle to grasp the strap. I hear there's an alternative to this, but haven't seen it yet.

Can you get the thing apart to swap reflectors? Otherwise, it looks like we're one step closer to sharks with laser beams on their heads.....

I could not find a better way to rethread strap to prevent slipping so I used Maxpedition Webdom.
I am still looking for simpler solution.

Offroad'Bent - Note difference between my threading and the threading in the pic above this post. My way is not particularly prone to slipping. I believe Fottach's post shows they way they come.

snoboy said:

Offroad'Bent - Note difference between my threading and the threading in the pic above this post. My way is not particularly prone to slipping. I believe Fottach's post shows they way they come.

Click to expand...

Thank you, you are right. :thumbsup:
I have just rethreaded straps according to your suggestion ant it seems much better.