L1 Cree upgrade/update options

I picked up an L1 Cree recently intending it to complement my E1L by providing more output and a RCR123 option in that general size class. Low and behold I must have a overachieving E1L but based on my rather unscientific ceiling bounce test with an old light meter they appear to have about the same output on high and the E1L is only slightly dimmer on low. Not quite what I was expecting. I have tried an RCR123 in the L1 and it works fine and is definitely a notch brighter on that cell, so perhaps I'll just keep it and use in that capacity. But I was expecting the L1 to be brighter on primary and really bright on RCR123s and that doesn't appear to be the case so... they seem a bit redundant.

Overall I like the smaller form factor of the E1L so I was pondering perhaps doing something to upgrade the L1 since I suspect that one difference is that the E1L is brand new and the L1 is used and looks a bit older - so the E1L likely has a better emitter in it despite them both being Crees. However, the emitter swap threads for an L1 make it look a good deal harder than something I can attempt.

Without going full bore into the hundreds of dollars with a Milky mega mod are there any known relatively inexpensive mods that will take the L1 Cree up a notch? Anyone doing these regularly? I think an emitter swap to even an XR-G would likely provide a decent boost...

Any thoughts or should I just count my good fortune with my E1L and move the L1 along to a new home?

I just got a Cree L1 upgraded to R2 WH and it is definitely brighter than my E1L. MyE1: is no slouch, but it is the original single stage KX1 (Cree) with lower high ~40 L IIRC?
On RCR123, my L1 is over the top and throws very far, but I have to put it on an E1 body to do that since my L1 bodies don't fit my RCR's.
I suspect you have an old L1 (rated 65L on high) that is just meeting spec, and have a decent E1L making a few Lumens over spec.

Modding the L1 is not that hard. Opening it can be difficult, but I did it so I'm sure you can. I ended up having to hold it over a gas burner (stove) and then trying strap wrenches on it. Took a few tries, but it opened both ends - bottom and top. Make sure to keep it hot and reheat often.

From there, you have to either:
1. remove the XR-E from the stock board and reflow the new one on
or
2. make a copper or aluminum shim the same thickness of the stock board and glue the shim and LED into the head (this is what DaFabricata did to mine) Then yo uhave to solder to the LED itself (carefully!)

If you can solder small leads reliably, you should have no problem once it is open.

There are recent picture tutorials in the Homebuilt/Custom/Modified section.

If you can open it, but not solder, contact DaFabricata, DatiLED, DarkZero, or post an "I need this modded" in the Custom/Modified section.

Thanks! My soldering skills are a bit rusty to say the least - haven't done much in years so this may not be the easiest place to start it appears.

I might take a whack at my Lux III Peak Pacific with a K2 TFFC upgrade first to get myself back in shape.

I'll check in the custom modders forum. One thing the L1 brings to the single cell table is a fair bit of mass compared to a lot of other lights so it seems a shame not to push it a little bit. This is also my first experience with the L1 UI and while I still have a soft spot for the clickie I can see why it is appealing.

Is Defabricata offering modding services to the forum? I admit I'm a bit out of the loop as I haven't done a lot of modifying work but have determined to try to make what I have as good as possible and stop chasing as many new lights...

I'm upgrading my Novatac to a K2 and am going to get one really good drop in for my 6P and try to get down to a much smaller collection...

Send it to Milky..

He is working on mine right now. He is putting an XR-E direct drive and making it accept the AW 17500 for more capacity.


You can also try Defabrica and Nailbender for an emitter swap. If you can imagine a XP-G at 1.4A


bigC

bigchelis said:

You can also try Defabrica and Nailbender for an emitter swap. If you can imagine a XP-G at 1.4A

Click to expand...

Will the XP-G's die size actually work in the SF TIR optic?

I recommend this:

since it seems L1 cree unofficially takes RCR123, i would open that head and put an XP-G R5 (or S2 when available), it would be perfect for it;

When you run the L1 with a rechargeable 3.7V it goes into direct drive, which the XP-G will handle without problem, and be a plenty bright, it will be pulling around 1A. As the rechargeable enters regulated territory brightness will diminish but it will not be drastic and i guess still more than 120 lumens.

i have modded an L1 head from a faulty/damaged led to an XR-E R2 a while ago, and its noticeably brighter than my stock L1, more noticeable even with a rechargeable, and i definitely plan on taking out that led and re-mod it with an XP-G in the near future.

Kestrel said:

Will the die size for the XP-G work in the SF TIR optic?

Click to expand...

That would be the only concern, but its possible that the result would be a wider beam and hotspot since the die has more surface, meaning a more everyday use friendly light. Im willing to take the risk

manoloco said:

That would be the only concern, but its possible that the result would be a wider beam and hotspot since the die has more surface, meaning a more everyday use friendly light. Im willing to take the risk

Click to expand...

Cool, I'm definitely no modder, but I am a SureFire nut and I'm very much looking forward to seeing any efforts and/or results. :thumbsup: