Who is using the new high-CRI Rebel LEDs?

Recently I bought some of the new high-CRI Rebel parts from Future Electronics, part LXM3-PW51. My plan is for a portable 12-emitter light to use for photography. I am nearly finished with the 7.5 amp-hour LiIon battery pack for the light. Here's a look at the new part, on top, and the standard Rebel. Both are neutral white:


More phosphor, it seems. Has anyone here made use of this new part? Or seen it in some commercial product yet? I was happy to get the L5CD bin, right at 4000k.

Jeff

Looks like a step in the right direction for the Rebels, though other companies still have them beat on the CRI end. (SSC and Nichia for sure)

I am starting a rebel flashlight project - but there is a lot do before there is anything to show. I will be interested to see how you approach it.

Are you following the PL FR4 thermal path - or something else?

Thanks

Harry

Sweet! Can't wait to see how pics turn out. Asian Signals has quite a few rebel boards that look to be of good quality... What kind of layout are you thinking, linear? Cluster? Ring?

Hey Jeff, good luck with your project. Are you planning to use this build for macro photography or something else?

Jeff

I was planning on using the High CRI rebels when I run out of my current supplies of the old 80lm Neutrals. I would be most interested in your opinion of their performance.

There now seem to be more bin choices available, both in terms of CCT, lm and CRI. I'm going try the high CRI bins first.....

EDIT: I think this thread just spurred me into action - I've just ordered a some LXML-PW51 and LXML-PW71 to have a play with.....

Hooray! Some interest in better LED color rendition!

HarryN - We will look forward to your high-CRI flashlight. My thermal path plan is one that has been successful for me on many projects, including my Hydra flashlights. I will apply a very thin coat of clear nail polish to the contacts only on the bottom of the Rebel LED, and then glue it directly to the P4 heatsink with Arctic Alumina epoxy. Then I scrape the top-side contacts so the copper is bare, and solder directly to the top. Here's a small lamp head for example:


bshanahan14rulz, I will lay out a rectangle, with 4 rows of three LEDs. Each set of 3 LEDs will connect to it's own regulator. I'll space them out away from each other so as to not concentrate the heat, as much as possible.

marokero, you have set the bar really high with your awesome Riegel light! I do dabble some with macro pics, but desktop photography is the term for a large part of my amateur work. I gave a presentation to my local camera club last year on desktop photography, and showed how to build a classic soft-light box, and how to build LED lights. Here's an image I used to show the interesting effects you can get using a multi-emmiter LED light with no diffusion:


BillyNoMates, good to hear from you. I'm pleased to hear you are going to try the new parts. Where do you buy them on your side of the ocean? And do you have a target project yet?

I'll be sure to post my new light project properly once I get further along.
Cheers,
Jeff

jeffosborne said:

BillyNoMates, good to hear from you. I'm pleased to hear you are going to try the new parts. Where do you buy them on your side of the ocean? And do you have a target project yet?

Click to expand...

Jeff

For specific bins, I use Future Electronics, but the cost is relative high for small quantities. For less specific binning (ie the old 80lm neutrals), I use Farnell (Newark) as they are quite a bit cheaper.

I'll probably use them in my (small) floody bike light / head-torch based on the RER-5-M optic from Ledil. It is relatively easy for me to swap LED boards in this light so I hope to do a comparison between the different tints.