Anyone get the Brinkmann to work?

I purchased the Brinkmann 3 Watt 2 D cell LED flashlight from woot.com and it's worthless. I just noticed that it was $35 on Amazon yesterday but dropped to $15 today. It's dimmer than a pocket key ring light that uses 1 AAA cell. I checked the specs and the 3 Watt Lumiled is supposed to have 3.7-3.9 volts and that's what makes it work with a power supply on the bench but the flashlight only has 2 D cells putting out 3 volts. It just glows faintly with a yellowish light at 3 volts. How can they expect a 4 volt LED to work with 2 D cells that put out 3 volts? There's almost room in the case for 3 cells that would provide enough voltage to make it work properly but a lot of room in the center of the case is taked up by the switch. Didn't Brinkmann even try this to see if it works before putting it on the market?
One of the reasons I bought it was due to all the good reviews but they seem to be lies. There are lots of reviews giving this light 5 stars and saying it's brighter than a Maglite but that's not possible. Those reviewers must be shills or employees of Brinkmann. It was just $15 but it's a rippoff.
It looks like I might be able to salvage the light by putting 3 C cells in the case by removing the rear spring and allowing the cells to go up into the cap then adding the appropriate voltage dropping resistor to reduce the 4.5 volts to 3.9 volts. Has anyone tried that?

Did ou even consider that you might have a dud?

Did you check the voltage of your cells? What type are they?

LED lights work just fine on lower voltage sources if they have boost circuits, as this light does.

I remember that on woot. Damn sorry about that but glad I resisted and didnt buy one.

could be a busted driver.

Marduke said:

Did ou even consider that you might have a dud?

Did you check the voltage of your cells? What type are they?

LED lights work just fine on lower voltage sources if they have boost circuits, as this light does.

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I haven't been able to get the switch assy. out but it doesn't seem to have anything inside and the battery voltage goes right to the LED making it pretty dim on just 3 volts.

I'm positive you have a dud. Consider the fact that MagLeds come in 2D. If you go by your logic, that would mean that those lights are also horridly underdriven.

I also received mine today, and it works fine. Tight, bright throw, readily visible even in evening bright sun, and good output. Good build quality too.

mcmc said:

I'm positive you have a dud. Consider the fact that MagLeds come in 2D. If you go by your logic, that would mean that those lights are also horridly underdriven.

I also received mine today, and it works fine. Tight, bright throw, readily visible even in evening bright sun, and good output. Good build quality too.

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x2
I'm perfectly happy with the one I opened.

mcmc said:

I'm positive you have a dud. Consider the fact that MagLeds come in 2D. If you go by your logic, that would mean that those lights are also horridly underdriven.

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Right! They would have to be horribly underdriven unless they have an inverter inside to step up the voltage since you can't run a 4 volt LED on 3 volts otherwise. Well you can but it will be really dim like mine.

stevec5000 said:

Right! They would have to be horribly underdriven unless they have an inverter inside to step up the voltage since you can't run a 4 volt LED on 3 volts otherwise. Well you can but it will be really dim like mine.

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Most LED lights have boost or buck converters. It's not really a big deal. They are small and cheap.

Does anyone know how to get the switch assy. out? After removing the clip and LED, that still leaves a black plastic cylinder wedged solidly inside the barrel but I can't see anything holding it or anyway to get it loose.

It's probably built the same as a Mag and has a set screw under the switch. There is probably a retaining ring somewhere too.

I have 3 of these 3w Brinkmann on the way from woot for some messing around.

I hope that it ends up this is an exception, because the previous review I read here on CPF showed they were actually pretty respectable right out of the package.

Marduke said:

It's probably built the same as a Mag and has a set screw under the switch. There is probably a retaining ring somewhere too.

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I finally got the thing apart. There are no set screws or anything, it just snaps in. The whole thing is very poorly made of cheap parts, about what I would expect to find at the 99 Cents Store.

I bought 3. Took one apart, the LED is a luxeon TY0KW- haven't looked it up yet, But there is a boost circuit in the switch holder assy, plenty of room for stuffing different stuff in there. And all three of mine work fine, good throw and about what I'd expect from a 3w.
Good deal.

Yeah, all told this is a great long-running light buy. The throw is about as good as my overdriven quad-cree in 4xIMS20's (of course that quad-cree puts out a way bigger hotspot and more overall light).

Well, I got it fixed. There was a small PC board inside but it didn't do anything. With 3 volts in from the batteries it put out 3 volts to the LED so it was fairly dim. I removed the board and ran a wire from the switch to the LED and connected a 1 ohm current limiting resistor from the LED to the case. With 3 C cells inside to provide the correct voltage the light still isn't that bright. I don't think it's really a 3 watt LED, the spot is actually dimmer than a 1 watt Garrity running on penlight cells and a bit yellower. The spot is a bit larger though. Like I said before, 99 Cent Store quality. Brinkmann should stick to making barbeque grills and leave flashlights alone.

The board contains the boost circuit. I would suggest fixing the probable loose connection.

That, or choose a more appropriate drop resistor.

This flashlight wouldn't happen to be the same one reviewed here would it?
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/187335

If so, it appears that you have figured out how to take the flashlight apart.
I tried removing the head, but it appears to be glued on.

As for the switch assembly, would any of you care to post some simple instructions on how to take it apart safely? I really couldn't figure it out.

I got three of these from Woot.com and they all work fine... on two D cells. I'm very happy with them for less than $10 each! When I get some time after the holidays, I'll probably try to mod one, but I have a couple of other projects in mind first, so it may take me a while to get to this one.

I got 3 of these. Two of them work, the other one used to, but is now laying in pieces on my bench. Waiting for a P7 star to get here, gonna try modding it first with the stock driver into a P7 and the stock (modified, if needed) reflector; if I'm not happy with that, then comes a buck driver replacement and 2x26700 or 2x32600 battery.

HypnoticSilence said:

This flashlight wouldn't happen to be the same one reviewed here would it?
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/187335

If so, it appears that you have figured out how to take the flashlight apart.
I tried removing the head, but it appears to be glued on.

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My experience, too. Haven't got around to trying heat or solvents yet, but brute force with grippy gloves doesn't seem to work. But it doesn't seem you really need to, for most mods.

I would like the ability to vary the focus a little more, though -- a DX sku.12834 fits quite nicely in the bezel, but gives about 20 degree beam with the stock Luxeon. I'm considering an XR-E mod, but would like to either get <=10 degree (for throw) or >40 (for short-range flood) -- a 20 degree crisp-edge aspherical beam is singularly pointless IMO. So I'm gonna have to fight with that glued joint sooner or later...

As for the switch assembly, would any of you care to post some simple instructions on how to take it apart safely? I really couldn't figure it out.

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• Unscrew the bezel and remove bezel, lens, and reflector
• Remove screw holding Bat- wire down
• Use snap-ring pliers or decent needle-nose to remove the retaining ring
• Push switch assembly and heatsink about 1/8 inch up, freeing one side of the boot flange. There's a plastic detent on the back of the switch assembly, so it will take a sharp rap to get it started.
• Extract the rubber boot through the hole
• Push switch assembly the rest of the way out.
• When out of the light, switch assembly just snaps open, revealing forward-clickie and boost driver.