Nitecore EX10 or EX10 R2?

Trying to decide which one i want and am curious about the color tints. im finding it hard to come by good comparison shots between the two (concerning similar backgrounds so i can easily see the differences.)

Anyone who has both care to describe them? Or, maybe even post a quick beamshot comparison?

i know that the R2 is supposed to be a lot cooler in general, but im wondering if its worth paying an extra 8$ for the (slightly?) warmer color standard EX10 model and lose the 15 lumens?

also, one last thing, anyone know if you can request a warmer tint from 4sevens or would this be pointless for the LEDs they use in general? Sorry if this seems a bit retarded, but I am still a newb when it comes to most of this stuff.

Many threads on this if you do a search:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/248379

The problem on the Nitecores is that with the Q5, you get a specific tint (WC), which is a pure crisp white, but if you look at the advertised specs for the R2 version you'll see that the tint isn't specified - so it's a bit of a lottery: you might get a cooler one, but you might also get a yellower one :sick2:

Tints are a very subjective thing, and it would be nice to be know exactly what you were getting - but I don't think the suppliers would be too keen on you asking them to go through a whole batch to pick out a tint you like !

R2 and Q5 are both flux bins of the Cree Xlamp series, you can get a Q5 bin Cree that is cooler then a R2 flux bin. Since they don't specify the tint bin, you could get a cooler LED, or a warmer LED.

I'm not sure if 4sevens would have the time to look for the right tint if every one asked him and his team to find the perfect tint for the light being sold.

I just got a R2 (yesterday) from the sale that is a nice white.

It's on the trade forum since my Trustfires are too long for it.......works great on a primary I have.

I figure I'll order an AW if I can't trade it for something else.

I have both of them and I even thought 2 days about getting an R2 off the sale to replace the LE in my Q5! At least my R2 is soooo much nicer than the Q5 (Splash edition Magma).

The R2 is more or less pure white, purplish-yellowish corona. In comparison, the Q5 looks much weaker (more than 15 Lumen to my eyes) and although it seems pure white used alone, in comparison it has a slightly greenish tint. What's more, the Q5 has a errible loud whining (others do that too), I haven't heard he R2 until now. I also have both LEDs in D10 (one modded to Q3-5A by gunga by now), it was the same (Q5 in the D10) : Whining, slightly greenish, much dimmer.

I can only tell you about my lights, no theory, practice. Othr lights may have another brightness and/or tint. I wouldn't hesitate 1 second to get the R2, at 4Sevens it's 5$ more expensive (before discounts) and it's worth more than that little difference!

I've got another question : Can you just swap the LED for an XPG-R5? I thought about that for my Q5, I would have the opportunity to have it done (can't do taht myself), but I have no knowledge about these things, if a light engine can just take another kind of LED.

I'm sorry that I can't post any beamshots...

Thank you all for the replys Decided to get myself an R2 while the 40% still takes effect from the discount code at 4sevens. Ive been wanting a nitecore PD for a while now. The discount brought it just within range of my current flashlight allowance for the month.

Great - good call, you'll love your new light.

Do let us know if you get a cool one or a yellow one.

GrimCreaper said:

while the 40% still takes effect from the discount code at 4sevens.

Click to expand...

What codes? Can you let me know. Thanks.

You can find them in the Marketplace. The original thread:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=201166

Also some new codes for bigger discounts:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=204969

Thanks for the links.

NiteCore SmartPD EX10 R2 Edition incoming

Just nabbed my light from the mail, looks good so far

Only problem was my own stupidity. I dont have a cr123 battery .
I plan on leaving for work a little earlier than usual so i can pick one up and screw around with it.

It says it accepts RCR123, anyone know if it works OK with 16340's?(im not sure if they are the same thing or not.. still a newbies when it comes to batteries.) might have to pick one up from AW if it does.

RCR123s and 16340s are the same thing. Take the protected ones.

What brand of RCR123s are people using for their EX10 R2?

Thank you for the info on the battery


now that i have atleast a primary, i can see the color.
Moonshadow: it seems to have a near-pure white tint with maybe a very (very very very minor) tiny bit of pink? almost unnoticeable.

Woods, from what ive read on these forums, AW's seem to have a VERY good reputation. You can find his sales thread in the cpfmp Dealer's Corner.

stealth edit.. maybe: is it supposed to take so much pressure to ramp up/down on this? takes quite a bit to change modes and turn it off. turning it on is simple enough. maybe i should take out the PD and clean the bottom if theres any excess lube?

I got another EX10 recently while they were on sale, and the new one had so much goop (lube) on it, it was almost impossible to operate... I wiped as much off as I could and it is 10x better.

Also, take the piston out, make sure there is NO lube on the end of the piston. I use a q-tip to wipe this off and to wipe off the end of the body tube where the end of the piston makes contact. I find I need to do this about once a month... Some how lube makes it way down there and then it makes the piston hard to push...

Thanks for the info, its working alot better for me now

By now I have 2 splashed EX10, 1 splashed D10, 1 EX10-E2 and 1 D10-R2.

Upon receiving, first thing I did with all lights was taking the piston out, getting the o-rings off and clean them thoroughly, the I put Nyogel on. I still don't know how you should lube the piston exactly, I tried to get lube inside the tube with my finger, but I put in too much and it got on top of the piston and I had to start over again. If you lube the o-ring only, I guess it is dry again when it arrives on top. loses all its lube on the way... :thinking:

I like the concept of the piston drive, but there are many problems with these lights, perhaps the system is too complicated and would require higher manufacturing quality, which means a higher price.

I have been lucky with mine until now, though I killed one light engine of a D10 (ripped the cables off the LED while screwing together, the LED got stuck on the reflector). I had to open the D10 as the lights wouldn't work screwed tightly together, the piston had no way to move, so I tightened the reflector, now they work, though the way is short on one. Some people sand the piston down a bit for better action and shorten the spring to lower the required operation force. That's dangerous play if your handcrafting skills are like mine. I took the springs out and stretched them in the opposite way, helped a little bit to get a smoother action.

To replace the killed light engine, I got a neutral-white mod (Q3-5A) from a CPFer, that one is very nice in the Sunspot!

Anyone know if there is an aspheric lens that would work with this? I like the throw on it already, but if i could increase it...
Or, what are the dimensions are the base lens? might be able to find one somewhere.

Thanks for the extra info Henk, good to know about cleaning more of the lube, i just cleaned a little of the bottom part of the piston and so far its working pretty good.