Which Loctite for L4 bezel?

Which "grade" or strength of Loctite should I use to reglue the KL4's bezel cap?

Also,I managed to scratch up the HAIII on my KL4 pretty badly using pliers to separate head parts. I've heard of strap wrenches. Is there any other type of pliers that is "gentle"?

Thanks for any help,
Brightnorm

Personally, I'd stick with the weakest, blue loctite. It's hard enough to grab onto that bezel as it is, don't really need anything stronger than that.

One would think that the locktite would soften up rather rapidly with the L4's heat. This might make it easier to dissassemble.

Good point. You can get the high temp loctite.

Brightnorm,

There are smooth jaw pliers available but in any case, I think it's a good idea to use a piece of leather, thin rubber or some other material so you don't have metal on metal contact. The tapers on the components of the KL4 bezel provide a very nice design look but certainly don't aid in disassembly.

- Don

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brightnorm said:
Which "grade" or strength of Loctite should I use to reglue the KL4's bezel cap?

Also,I managed to scratch up the HAIII on my KL4 pretty badly using pliers to separate head parts. I've heard of strap wrenches. Is there any other type of pliers that is "gentle"?

Thanks for any help,
Brightnorm

[/ QUOTE ]

Brightnorm,
I was able to separate the bezel sections with only rubber bands wrapped around each section. There was some substance on the threading that looked like Loctite, but I didn't need any tools.

You need to get a set (they come with a big and little version) of the strap-wrench. It's great for cracking open bezels and the such. To answer your question, you want Loctite Blue.

Sears sells the strap wrenches.

They keep you from screwing up a lot of stuff, and really do the job.

Guys,

Consider other alternatives to thread locking (Loctite) compounds. Silicone adhesives ("RTV") as in hardware store bathroom caulk will seal and lock threaded parts together quite satisfactorily, and permit later disassembly if necessary. The Sears 2pc strap wrench set is pretty effective, but I wish they had used fiber reinforced straps for them. The Loctite products have their uses, but are typically for preventing things from unintended coming loose /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif . They make a seperate product line for sealants, though they are only available through industrial channels.

Larry

Use Loctite 242 ("Blue"). While there is some degradation due to temperature, it shouldn't be an issue considering the surface area that you are dealings with. Their main web site is here and the technical data sheet is here. As for strap wrenches, I think I saw a set (3 or 4) at Costco the other day, in the $10-$20 dollar range (sorry, can't remember specifically). Good luck!

Dan

Thanks all for very useful, helpful comments /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Brightnorm

I have a nagging feeling that we may be missing something important here. So many posts here in the past have explained how important it is to use dielectric grease on the threads. It improves the conductivity of the connection even though it is nonconductive. How would Loctite 242 Blue effect the conductivity of this connection? Could the substance, being used by Surefire, have properties that are needed for optimal performance?
oldgrandpajack

Just thought of another property needed for this connection. The "loctite" needs to be and excellent thermal conductor in addition to the dielectric properties. Must be able to withstand the temperatures involved also.
oldgrandpajack

So are you saying that the blue Loctite may be a problem?

BN

I just left mine on for 20 minutes and it came apart no problem Loctite black maxx is very seroius stuff, it can be used for ribs on shotguns. This should work.

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Josh said:
I just left mine on for 20 minutes and it came apart no problem Loctite black maxx is very seroius stuff, it can be used for ribs on shotguns. This should work.

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Josh,

I'm not clear on your view. Isn't the black maxx too strong for this type of application, where you might want to take it apart at some time in the future?

Brightnorm

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brightnorm said:
So are you saying that the blue Loctite may be a problem?

BN

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I don't know if Blue Loctite would be a problem. I don't know if it has the same properties as the substance used at Surefire. Surefire may use something special that improves the thermal and electrical conductivity of the connection. Heck, they may have switched from gaskets to a sealant (or vice versa) after production started, for all we know. I've been reading, on the thread about getting the KL4 wet, that customer service is saying something like that, to some callers. I wish I had PK's email address. Nothing like getting the info from the horse's mouth. My KL4 doesn't have the gaskets. I can tell by shining a bright light on the connection. GOD knows, I have an abundance of bright lights. Surefire is sending the gaskets, but I would like PK's recommendation on what Loctite to use with them. Or maybe, on his recommondation, to forgo the gaskets and use a sealer only. There may be more than one answer.
oldgrandpajack

I don't ever want it to come apart. I have no plans to mod it, so I have no reason to be in there. I just want the thing to be as solid as a tank and this is the stuff to do it.