best carry light for police officer

hey all im new to this and wanted some expert opinion...looking for a powerful light under 100 u.s. dollars and high and low modes also a strobe function...what is everyones opinion for this...thanks

My advice, I'm in a police academy right now and i'm also a flashaholic, is to get a Eagletac T100C2 with the protruding tail switch.

I've tried it with our night fire course and it's simplicity in use can't be touched. My firearms instructor is a former FBI swat instructor and he taught us both the Harris technique and the syringe technique using a Surefire z2. I personally prefer the syringe technique and modified my t100c2 with a surefire combat ring placed infront of the t100c2's cigar style ring to increase the purchase my fingers get on the surefire ring. Then I activate the tailswitch with the palm of my hand.

I've discussed the strobe option with lots of people and while it's disorienting, it not significantly more effective then pulsing with a momentary switch and every strobe feature I've encountered is difficult to activate under stress. So ditch the strobe.

Also the t100c2 lasts 2 hours with no dimming of output when using 18650 li ion cells. Pretty awesome....

turan8 said:

My advice, I'm in a police academy right now and i'm also a flashaholic, is to get a Eagletac T100C2 with the protruding tail switch.

I've tried it with our night fire course and it's simplicity in use can't be touched. My firearms instructor is a former FBI swat instructor and he taught us both the Harris technique and the syringe technique using a Surefire z2. I personally prefer the syringe technique and modified my t100c2 with a surefire combat ring placed infront of the t100c2's cigar style ring to increase the purchase my fingers get on the surefire ring. Then I activate the tailswitch with the palm of my hand.

I've discussed the strobe option with lots of people and while it's disorienting, it not significantly more effective then pulsing with a momentary switch and every strobe feature I've encountered is difficult to activate under stress. So ditch the strobe.

Also the t100c2 lasts 2 hours with no dimming of output when using 18650 li ion cells. Pretty awesome....

Click to expand...

+1

I carry a Surefire C2 and Z2 with Malkoff M60s running on 1x 17670 on my bat belt and I prefer the cigar style when having to light and shoot or even just searching it feels more natural to me. Now I have never played with the eagletac, but reading a lot about them they are well built and highly regarded. Reading about the T100c2 Mark II just now, I like it a lot due to it's price point, it's ability to run 18650 (I would run an AW 18650 2600mah for ultimate run time), in fact it reminds me of my C2 and Z2 a lot in design except it has the features I like, low and high settings, 18650 capable, and can run 2x cr123 primaries in a bind and I digress as I am starting to babble. Anyways Good features. Hmmm... might need to pick one up

Oh yeah forgot, strobe feature is kind of useless like Turan8 said, most of the time under stress you won't think to use it or be able to switch modes.

A Fenix TK10, 11,or 12 would also work well.
The TK10 also has a pocket clip.

don't forget the Jetbeam Jet-III M =)

From a professional perspective, I would loose the strobe mode requirement... Its a cool little gimick but most lights out there that have them dont have the UI to make them easily accessable under stress or extreme duress. A quick pulse of 150 lumens or higher, especially at a subject that is even partially night adapted, is going to disorient and temporarily blind them enough for up to 5 seconds, which should be ample time to make your move. Believe me... it works wonders, so much so that I actually had a better reaction with a pulse up light from my current light (not even 4 days ago) then I get from OC spray. The subject quite literally screamed, put his hands up, covered his eyes, stumbled around, and fell over... and he wasnt impaired either.

Anyway, for under $100 USD I would say +1 for the Eagletac P100C2 (flat regulated) or the T20C2 (higher output, but not flat regulated)

You could also look into the Fenix TK11 R2. Generally, you can expect 1:45 of flat regulated light at 240 lumens and an additional hour droping to about 65-70% output before the light tanks off of one 18650. A nice little feature of this light is that, in a pinch, it will also accept CR123A primaries. Overall Its a fairly well built, simple, and solid light; especially considering the price and where its made. In my experience, the only real flaw in the light is that you need to be reasonably careful with the tailcap switch because it seems to be the weakest link in an otherwise good system, however even with a surefire you cant just abuse the hell out of it and expect it work when your done (even though it probably will). If you decide to go this route, do yourself a favor and get the spacer ring... because you will have one hell of a time trying to find a holster that will accomodate the tactical ring. With the spacer ring it will fit in STRION LED holsters.

Jetbeam is AWSOME quality and has some really cool features; but for me, their IBS system (Jet III) proved to be a little to complicated for field use and their selector ring (RRT-2) kept switching on me when I tried to remove it from the holster, replace it, and carry it. Otherwise they are awsome lights, will accept Primaries and 18650 cells (Same as the TK11 R2), Good runtime, and are built like a rock... and I still love them for everything BUT duty carry.

I have heard that the Olight M20 is also a respectable competitor to both the Eagletac and the Fenix, but I dont have any personal experience with it so make sure you do your homework, read LOTS of reviews, and ask questions.

Personally I have gone back to a more simple and mainstream brand name that I purchased right here on CPF. Its a 18650 bored Surefire C2 with a Malkoff M30 drop-in (it also has a stainless steel bezel ring and a Z58 Tailcap). I currently, and likely will ONLY, run the AW 18650 cell and use a AW-139 Charger because when it comes to batteries I wont chance bad quality. This light will also work with just about every side arm pairing technique that is taught and it has a clip if you need it.

Ill keep it short by simply adding that if you have or can find the extra cash... you should look around CPF a bit and see what you can find at the higher, custom end. Otherwise I'll stand by my initial recommendations.

Good luck and stay safe

Alberta-Blue

Olight M20

Olight M30(probably bigger than your looking for. I have heard of Police carrying one in their trunk when an extra 400 lumens is needed. Not too big, especially compared to other 600+ lumens lights especially without the extension tube running 2x18500 batteries.

EagleTAC T100C2

EagleTAC T20C2- This would be my first choice, but only the new version with the updated UI. Unfortunately they aren't out yet. They are rumored to be out soon though.

Jetbeam Jet III-M

Read some info on neutral tint LED's. Many companies offer them in their lights. You give up a little in lumens, but they have a more neutral color. This comes in handy, especially in green environments like searching in woods or brush for a suspect. It will be easier to see a leg sticking out of a bush with a neutral tint LED.

Best Carry Light For A Police Officer

This is no one single light that is best for everybody or even every cop. Does your agency issue a light or have a vehicle mounted flashlight and charger? That would have an impact on my decision. Will you be working in uniform? (I assume so, although there are some places that people get assignments in civilian clothing.) What shift will you be working? Will you be working patrol or something else? If, for example, you agency has vehicle chargers in the car there is a lot be be said for getting a rechargeable light that uses your existing charger. I have been criticized in the past here for suggesting flashlights that have battery packs that charge in the light in a charger. I understand the position that any light can be made into a rechargeable light with rechargeable batteries and an external charger. But in cop work things can get crazy and you aren't likely to want to fool around with batteries that have to be removed. If they already have a Streamlight Stinger charger in the car, just get a Streamlight Stinger LED or Stinger DS LED. If you want a little bit more, then go with a Streamlight Stinger DS LED HP or Stinger LED HP. On the other hand, if you have a Pelican charger already in the car for a 7060, they are a great light, but it doesn't meet your requirement for high/low and strobe function. I have an older Inova T4 that doesn't strobe, but the current Inova T4 does have a strobe. If you want a smaller light, look at the Streamlight Strion LED. There are still police departments and sheriff's offices with Streamlight SL-20s out there. If you want an upgrade, get an SL-35 lamp and install it in the SL-20. One more thing, if you work accidents at all, for God's sake do yourself and others a favor and get a traffic wand. I have seen way to many crashes where am officer, deputy, or trooper are trying to direct traffic with just a flashlight. Many flashlights that cops get have a traffic want available. Spend the few extra dollars and get a traffic wand. While you are at it, make sure you have a good traffic vest. Changes are your agency issues one, but if they don't for under $20 stop by Northern Tool and get the LED traffic vest. Trust me, when, not if, you are outside directing traffic you WILL be glad you sprung for it. All the soccer moms yacking on their cell phones while driving the "grocery getter" aren't paying attention to you, so anything you can do to help you get noticed pays off.

Re: Best Carry Light For A Police Officer

The Fenix TK11 gets another vote from me!

As does the Jetbeam Jet-III Military!

I would also highly suggest that you think about saving a little more and getting a bored Surefire C2 with Malkoff M30 :thumbsup:

That is my goto light

I use all sorts of lights at work and can't really say what would be best for you.

But, I wholeheartedly second the motion of getting a traffic wand with your new light. I am in the middle of a part time job directing traffic at a church right now. I am currently using a Fenix LD10 with a wand and that little flashlight gets attention.

I use the strobe feature to get cars to stop. It seems to "wake" folks up without blinding them. For me, that is about all the strobe feature is good for.

I have a Fenix PD30+ coming to me soon and plan on getting a Malkoff drop in for my Surefire 6P. One of those is going to take over traffic control duties and more than likely it will be the PD30+ since it has a strobe too.

Decide what you want the light to do for you, decide on the features that are important to you, and try to stay within your budget. Good luck in your search.

And if your department is like mine, pretty much anything you choose is going to be superior to the issued light. lol

This is my first post on CPF, but I've been lurking for quite a while. There is great information here for those who choose to do the research. I think those who already responded to the OP gave great advice. I've been a patrol cop for 20 years and have just recently "seen the light" and upgraded my old SL20 to a Pelican 8060. I would strongly suggest that any new officer carry both a full-sized, rechargable duty light like these in addition to a smaller light on the belt. I use my full-sized light almost exclusively. The smaller light is great as a back-up tool. I've used my original Surefire 6P since about the time they first came out. Someday soon I'll buy the Malkoff M60 drop-in for it. I use the momentary-on feature so that the batteries last a long, long time.

The reasons I prefer to rely on the larger duty light are:
Run time, ability to tuck it under my arm and write or do other tasks, ability to use it to pry, I like the on-off switch near the head of the flashlight so I can carry it like a baton, it extends your reach and it is just as well suited for most nighttime shooting techniques as the smaller lights.

For a full-sized duty light I strongly recommend the Pelican 8060. My old Streamlight SL20 has suffered many broken bulbs and loose wire connections. Its run-time has never been anywhere near that of the Pelican. The Pelican "throws" (see, I did learn something from you guys!) alot farther (at least 80 strong yards) and still has generous "spill". The head of the light is octogon-shaped, so it doesn't roll off of my desk. I've been very impressed by this light.

New cops: definately buy a traffic vest (mandated to be used on highways receiving federal funds) and a traffic cone (wand) for your duty light. Also, turn off your headlights if you are parked facing traffic so motorist aren't blinded and don't run you over. I hope all of this helps, and above all, be safe!

I just bought a Surefire R1 Lawman. It cost me one full 8hr overtime shift. Its expensive, but what is your life worth? I had a 6P, which I upgraded to the P61 bulb, but that just shortened the run time. I then bought the LED drop in conversion. I still was not thrilled on the run time. Also, the size of the 6P, when used as a primary light is just too small to tuck under your arm when you want to take a license with your off hand while still illuminate the suspect/interior of the vehicle.

Question,
Do You need a light for search purpose? or for tactical reasons.
If for tactical reasons:

We study and developed tactical lights for a living for more then 7 years.
I work as a police trainer on the Dutch Police Academy. Before that for most of my 40 years service I worked on active duty in many special teams.
So, I can more or less state that I know something more of this subject then most.

Our studies', trainings and real live practice with over 400 police officers proved the use off Strobe without any form of doubt.
Lots of people have opinions about this, but never made a full long term studie on this matter.
For us, it is not an opinion, but proven facts.

It strongly depends on several things.

1. Strobe must be faster then 15hz at least. (this is due to a tactical reason)
2. When switched on, it ALWAYS has to start in Strobe mode. (You can choose different modes after that, but for tactical reasons after switch off it comes back on in Strobe )
3. It should be carried in a "quick draw" holster for 1-handed draw (not weapon hand)
4. It needs at least 250lm in a strong throw beam, (NO flood)
5. NO side switch, it has to have a momentary, thumb operated rear switch.

There is a lot more to it, some technical and tactical stuff and absolutely a good training with it,

This is what we came up with after many years of trial and error. We had it made to our specs.



Many people are skeptic about this subject. It takes just 10 minutes and al skepticism is gone.
When You are in the region, Your welcome to our training facility and learn about it. Your never to old to learn something new :thumbsup:

Oh, Lights enough for a training with 16 students




btw the Fenix 34mm trafficwand fits perfectly on it.
Thou it is not specificaly designed for traffic duty, strobe with wand work great for signaling.

I would get as much advise from grizzlyb, he KNOWS what hes talking about. I just wish I would have listened to him before I choose the P25 instead for duty carry...

kmorar556 said:

I would get as much advise from grizzlyb, he KNOWS what hes talking about. I just wish I would have listened to him before I choose the P25 instead for duty carry...

Click to expand...

The P25 is a great search light, nothing wrong with that.
As a tactical light it has it flaws, but it is WAY better then no light mate,
And. . . . whats wrong with 2 lights *grinn*,

Don't know what side of the world You live, but this light is hard to get, in other regions then Europe.
Many other main manufactors didn't even take the time to respond when we came asking.
Probably after seeing the results they will try to get one and remake them for other country's. That will take some time thou.

Grizzlyb said:

The P25 is a great search light, nothing wrong with that.
As a tactical light it has it flaws, but it is WAY better then no light mate,
And. . . . whats wrong with 2 lights *grinn*,

Don't know what side of the world You live, but this light is hard to get, in other regions then Europe.
Many other main manufactors didn't even take the time to respond when we came asking.
Probably after seeing the results they will try to get one and remake them for other country's. That will take some time thou.

Click to expand...

I live in America, I got the light from fasttech. I like the light but I agree for a tactical light its ok, at that time I really hated flashlights that had a UI of turning the head to change modes, but now I really understand the tactical flashlight systems... Hopefully I get the P25 sold and get the Eagletac t20cs MK2 or the g25c2 mk2.

I am curious what light fit your following criteria?

It strongly depends on several things.

1. Strobe must be faster then 15hz at least. (this is due to a tactical reason)
2. When switched on, it ALWAYS has to start in Strobe mode. (You can choose different modes after that, but for tactical reasons after switch off it comes back on in Strobe )
3. It should be carried in a "quick draw" holster for 1-handed draw (not weapon hand)
4. It needs at least 250lm in a strong throw beam, (NO flood)
5. NO side switch, it has to have a momentary, thumb operated rear switch.

There is a lot more to it, some technical and tactical stuff and absolutely a good training with it,

This is what we came up with after many years of trial and error. We had it made to our specs.



Many people are skeptic about this subject. It takes just 10 minutes and al skepticism is gone.
When You are in the region, Your welcome to our training facility and learn about it. Your never to old to learn something new :thumbsup:

Blueskies123 said:

I am curious what light fit your following criteria?

Click to expand...

Ehh,
That light did not excist. So, as I pointed out, we designed it and had it build to the exact specs we needed.
Only 1 manufactor was willing and innovative enought to take up the challenge.
In the end, from the day we where sure we knew what we wanted, it took us over 3 years to get it near perfect.
It is the light on the photo's. It still is a work in progress. There are still some minor things we want to change, but those are more or less cosmetical.

Manufactors can be arrogant in their ways of building lights. They make what THEY think is good for us.
Wrong way of thinking.
We need what is required for our profession.
Not only manufactors think that way, but many people are used to think that manufactors will probably know what is best for them. . . . :thinking:.

Many UK police officers tend to buy the Klarus xt11,even a local surplus store keeps them in stock for police officers to buy.