Thought folks might be interested in this one, I had an old fenix L1T v1 sitting around not being used and I also ended up with a part functioning R2 p60 module from your favourite and mine DX. So I ended up checking up on here for some threads about the L1T driver module
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/120525
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/141896
It looked like I might be able to get an upgrade done with what I had. So L1T head came off and the brass emitter module unscrewed no problem at all. The removal of the old 3 watt led was a complete pain , it de-soldered easy enough but was so solidly attached with the heat paste that a slip of the pliers ended up with a mashed led but that meant it came off
.
The boost circuit has three wires attached to fibre washer with led pad areas. One is + one is - and the other feeds the - from the body contact to the circuit ( the + comes from the battery contact on the reverse of the circuit)
I removed the emmiter (what was left) as well as the fibre washer. Then cleaned up the top of the brass pill. I dropped a small neodynium magnet into the small resess where the 3watt heatsink had been as it was the best fit I had, also the - feed to the circuit was soldered to the top of the pill and kept as flat as possible. The R2 emitter had quickly de-soldered from the p60 and was on a small 16mm board that fitted into the pill with space to spare. I fixed the magnet into the resess with some shin-etsu heat sink paste and put a generous dollop on the top and placed the emitter in place and soldered up the + & -. A quick push on test to the body of the L1T and everything was working.
The R2 needs the reflector hole enlarged and this was done with a craft knife and just rotating the removed reflector to enlarge the hole. The insulating washer from the top of the p60 module was placed ontop of the emitter before screwing the pill into the head again. Everything screwed back together and fit to reflector was fine.
So I now have a r2 L1T that has a high and low. Also on 14500 the buck circuit goes Direct drive and chucks out even more light. The beam is floody due to the changed focus point on the reflector but that is good for around the house stuff and so far running on high with a AA has shown virtually no heat generation due to the lower mah draw.
Next time I'll take photos
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/120525
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/141896
It looked like I might be able to get an upgrade done with what I had. So L1T head came off and the brass emitter module unscrewed no problem at all. The removal of the old 3 watt led was a complete pain , it de-soldered easy enough but was so solidly attached with the heat paste that a slip of the pliers ended up with a mashed led but that meant it came off
.The boost circuit has three wires attached to fibre washer with led pad areas. One is + one is - and the other feeds the - from the body contact to the circuit ( the + comes from the battery contact on the reverse of the circuit)
I removed the emmiter (what was left) as well as the fibre washer. Then cleaned up the top of the brass pill. I dropped a small neodynium magnet into the small resess where the 3watt heatsink had been as it was the best fit I had, also the - feed to the circuit was soldered to the top of the pill and kept as flat as possible. The R2 emitter had quickly de-soldered from the p60 and was on a small 16mm board that fitted into the pill with space to spare. I fixed the magnet into the resess with some shin-etsu heat sink paste and put a generous dollop on the top and placed the emitter in place and soldered up the + & -. A quick push on test to the body of the L1T and everything was working.
The R2 needs the reflector hole enlarged and this was done with a craft knife and just rotating the removed reflector to enlarge the hole. The insulating washer from the top of the p60 module was placed ontop of the emitter before screwing the pill into the head again. Everything screwed back together and fit to reflector was fine.
So I now have a r2 L1T that has a high and low. Also on 14500 the buck circuit goes Direct drive and chucks out even more light. The beam is floody due to the changed focus point on the reflector but that is good for around the house stuff and so far running on high with a AA has shown virtually no heat generation due to the lower mah draw.
Next time I'll take photos
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