How About Teflon Tape?

You know that white "tape"? Would you use that on your threads. Its super thin but rather tough, pliable, resilient, has some inherent lubricity, and I believe a good sealer against water. I've used it before and have had good results.

What had me think to post this was the one by mcnair55 concerning silicone grease.

Edit - This maybe the wrong sub-forum for this thread. Sorry about that.

Teflon tape is not meant to be used on threads that will be used frequently. It is made to seal threads that will be tightened ONE time.

Try it but I don't think it will work well.

I'll be your huckleberry. If my light's threads shear off, well, I guess you can always tell me you told me so.

I do a lot of plumbing work and Sonrider657 is right. Teflon tape (or generically called "thread seal tape") is only designed to be used once when tightening the parts together and that's it. When you remove the threaded parts, the tape will get all shredded up into numerous strands like dental floss that will be stuck in the thread. It can be a pain to pick those strands out of the thread, but a sharp pin or knife blade helps.

That's just based on my using teflon tape for its intended purpose, NPT (National Pipe Thread) though. Please let us know how well it works on flashlight thread.

I use it on my Fenix L0-Ti, works very well though you do have to change it from time to time.

It works better when there is a bit of play in the threads. On some of the tightly cut ones it will just shred the tape.

Point taken. Still, I have used it before and had good results. Meaning, it lasted a good while without coming apart. Just my observation. But, if my light's threads do crap out then you can both tell me "we told you so".

On most metal bodied lights, current has to travel THROUGH the threads... This seems like a bad idea. In fact too much lube could theoretically impact light performance (though unlikely).

You can buy ptfe tape in crayon form,easy to apply and no picking out the tape later has the plumbing poster states,but to be honest ptfe tape is for sealing threads that do not need to be undone in a while.

Illumination,
I actually did have trouble with a G2 due to lube in the threads. Cleaned it up and it worked just fine.

Cool.

Illumination said:

On most metal bodied lights, current has to travel THROUGH the threads... This seems like a bad idea. In fact too much lube could theoretically impact light performance (though unlikely).

Click to expand...

Hmm, thinking of all my lights, (mostly SF's, two FiveMegas, two StreamLights, two Mag D's and one Fenix), none of them rely on electrical connection through the thread surfaces themselves, usually the electrical connection between the tailcap and the body is a machined shoulder next to the thread surfaces, bypassing the threads.

We'll move this to the General Flashlight section.

I've got a Surefire LX2 that absolutely drives me nuts, the tailcap is so loose. My 6P's with twisties are great, my L1 and L2 are a bit more loose but have never given me any problems. I read where someone said to use Scotch tape on the threads and that it worked for them, I tried it, worked great for a week then had to take the tailcap apart to get the pieces of tape out.
I've tried teflon tape and after 3 days or so it all comes apart and needs to be cleaned out also.
Scotch tape definitely works better...but I don't think I'll use either one again.
Just have to live with a loose tailcap!!

teflon is the 2nd best electrical insulator. I'd pass for electrical reasons.

Scot, I had the loose tail cap problem with my A2, it even came apart in my pocket as it always backed off. I used the thickest grease I had which helped a little but did not fix it.
Then one day(after about 4 years), I decided to replace the o-ring and now it is snug and does not loosen at all. You might give it a try.

I've used a lot of teflon tape on pipe threads and it works very well for that purpose. I guess it shouldn't "harm" a flashlight and the best way I have found to clean it off of threads is with a small stainless or brass wire brush--the kind with fairly soft bristles.

Wouldn't a slightly thicker o-ring solve the problem?

permanent solution: replace original rubber, NBR o-rings with Viton o-ring

Viton is a low compression set material, thus provides better seal, but keep it away from non-polar solvent.

I've tried the next size up in O rings on my LX2, tailcap won't screw down. Guess I'll have to find a different size, source and try them.

I like using the Teflon tape on my Mag head threads.

Keeps things focused just the way I want them but isn't permanant.