Fenix Switch durability

Dear All,

First of all , hello to everyone, I am new here and I can't find a special section where usually one has to introduce oneself as first time poster.
So please do not mind that I start a first post with a question. Thank you.

I been buying all sorts of small torches ( low-end ) with push button switch and so far the switch will be the problem in the end after a few months. Battery bad contact and dirty threading on alumimnum ones not conducting electrical flow can be cleaned and maintained. Switches are a bit tough for 3 x AAA size ones since they are small.

I want to ask on Fenix LD20 and the TK40, how are the switches quality ?
For low cost Chinese import that I can get locally, the torch are throw away after a few months or often less than 1,000 switching cyles. Intermittent contact, voltage loss and so on.

I know Fenix is higher priced and shuould have better components since the target market is for pro/collector like you guys here, but I am wondering what kind of switch they use or how they been standing to the abuse of users in this forum ?

I would like to use the old mid 1990 MagLite D cell switch as benchmark. They are good enough for me. Yep, I am way behind current torch technology now:mecry:

Thank you in advance.

Sincerely,
Surya

Fenix switches are pretty reliable. I personally have never had any problems with mine, but there was a thread a few weeks ago where the author had problems with all three of his Fenix switches. It was closed after it became apparent that it was a trolling thread (guy asked a question, had the Surefire vs. everything else quality guys) and didn't post whether our good advice had helped.

Fenix switches are replaceable when they break/wear out. If you take the tailcap off, and look at it, there is a silver aluminum ring with the contact spring coming through. It also has two small divets on either side, and yo can tighten the switch back up if it ever works its way loose.

This is not a direct reply to the switch question, but for Fenix Tk40 reliability this is a "must read":

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/233856

HTH

I have carried Fenix lights for years without a single switch failure.

Welcome to the board!

Thanks John and Bat....:twothumbs

Yes Farhad, I seen that torture test. I been searching this site for over 14+ hours since two days ago. I try not to ask questions untill I do my own search...lovecpf

Its good to know Fenix switches are replaceable. I mean at least I can buy them from Fenix.

Been using those un-branded 3xAAA that cost less than US$15....:thumbsdow..bad swicthes.

Thanks again gentlemen.

I can't speak for others, but I haven't had any problems with my TK40 's switch. Click on...click off...every time with no hassles.

I own several Fenix models and been fortunate enough to have never had a failure. Replacement switches are cheap i own several of them for different models but never had to use one.

I guess they are cheap enough to not have to worry about it; the replacement switches.

901-Memphis said:

I guess they are cheap enough to not have to worry about it; the replacement switches.

Click to expand...

I have experienced two switch failures on my Fenix lights. One was caused by the way I carry the light. I have found them to be reliable otherwise. The switch will always be the part of flashlight most prone to failure.

Does it help the reliability of the switch if when you replace the battery you unscrew the head instead of the tail? Thats what I do with my L1t.

I have most of the Fenix line and have not had a switch failure yet. Most of the Fenix lights I use stay in my pocket so they are prone to pocket lint and some wear on the switch rubber cap but no switching failures yet. The TK40 now is another matter with such an exposed switch and cap. So far no problems but time and use will tell. Overall Fenix's are worth the money and I gave up buying cheap lights long ago. Hope this helps.

Hi All,

Again thanks for the updated response.
I don't know how Fenix wires their lights, if those switches are trigger switches for controller to activate the LED and controller carry full load current, it should last long. If the switches itself carry full current load, dang at Turbo for TK40 it will be lots of current. However since it is supposed to be "Digital" control and I read it consumes a bit of power under storage, it seems like it is a triggering switch for the LED controller. I sure hope it is a triggering switch.

Price for switches is no issue. Failing in time of need is the problem. Must order spare switches then and change them every year or so. Pitting of switches due to electric arching is one thing but wear and tear due to pushing cyle and whatever friction caused by the clicking/pushing action may accelerate wear on it too.

Switch realibility not in financial sense but situational sense that worries me. Even at 1 ohm resistance it is still parasitic load and brightness killer at low voltage....:mecry:. Me use it as sea/boats always and very corrossive environment. Even my cell phone gets ruined often just from the salty moisture laden air and in my country is like 99% humidity at sea.

I can't remember which model/brand uses panasonic switch which is supposed to be 30K cycle rated...read somewhere.:thinking:

Just read a brand Nicore or something ( reading too much in these three days make me kind of overloaded ) with "piston" switch claiming less electrical load on the switch and the torch body does not carry the negative electrical flow...something like that. This sounds like the switching design is not trigger switching to the LED controller...no ?

Thanks
SP

sweetlight said:

Does it help the reliability of the switch if when you replace the battery you unscrew the head instead of the tail? Thats what I do with my L1t.

Click to expand...

I believe a lot of the switch failure is attributed to normal use wear and also how you carry it in your pocket or where it is carried... Like in a glove box or even worse a tool box in the wrong spot.

I doubt the battery change effects the lifespan of the switch at all.

Sardaukar said:

I have experienced two switch failures on my Fenix lights. One was caused by the way I carry the light.

Click to expand...

How did you carry your light that resulted in a switch failure?

Newcomer to the Fenix family here looking to avoid breaking the lights.

I've had the LD10 for 11 months now, first 6 months with the normal tailcap/switch.
After that i started using the L1D tailcap/switch because it tailstands better.
Works every time.

Also, the TK40 switch is not like a normal clilcky switch on other Fenix lights. From what I have read it is more like a Novatac switch kinda like cell phones? It is rated for many more cycles than a standard clikcy I believe and much more reliable.

Many Fenix torches here (see sig)

1 Switch failure on EDC after about 18 months.

Free to replace (I asked for another one from the person I brought it off), and very easy to replace.

I have and the replaced switch in there for.. some time now. Starting to act up a little bit, but not bad enough for me to need to replace it.

I did buy a bunch of spare switches though just incase

Overall the switches are a moving part, so I have to expect some breakage, but I think they could do a slightly better job.

Its rare to hear of a switch failure on a surefire for example.

i don't like tactical switches because they stick out and can easily be damaged when dropped.

i got 2 extra switches for my TK20 and 3 extra switches for my 2 Liteflux LF2XTs; just in case. i don't trust any switch 100%, so i feel better already having spares on hand.

does anyone know where to get a replacement switch for the TK40??

burntoshine said:

does anyone know where to get a replacement switch for the TK40??

Click to expand...

I would love to know that too....

Maybe we should email 4Sevens or something and ask if they can get their hands on one.. even a whole tail end would be fine (though more expensive..).

SuperTrouper said:

How did you carry your light that resulted in a switch failure?

Newcomer to the Fenix family here looking to avoid breaking the lights.

Click to expand...

I keep a T1 clipped bezel up to the outside of my messenger bag. Quickly down on a concrete bench while wearing the bag with the light attached = dead switch.

I carried a P3D Premium Q5 for almost a year. Used it everyday. Dropped it often. The switch finally gave out.